Just got bought the car from Car Max 2 weeks ago. When we did the walk through the rear hatch and glass opened just fine. Last week it started acting flaky and now it does not work at all when I push the button. Also the glass works just fine. I don't think its a fuse b/c the glass and locks are all on the same fuse. Obviously I have a appt. with the service dept. at car max but is there something I am doing wrong or a easy fix that I can take care of? Thanks in advance!

 

Usually the switch on those. Cheap, and not hard to replace.

 

I have the same problem the back door hatch and window don't open, there is no way to open it with a key. I have a 2002 V6 Escape, Sometimes it works and sometimes it don't, but it getting fewer times working. Can anyone tell me how to fix this. Or how much it costs to get it fixed. The other doors work perfectly fine.

 

vronnie13: Can't tell you the cost, but you likely have a bad lock/unlock motor inside the hatch. It is a small DC motor that runs one-way to lock and runs the-other-way to unlock. You probably have heard the zip-zip sound the locks make as they work, that sound being the motor running.
You would have to remove the inner panel of the hatch to gain access to the motor. It could be a motor that has brushes near the end of their life, is corroded, or has intermittent wiring connections. It could be a loose connector, for that matter. The only way I know to determine the problem is to remove the inner panel. I would caution that it can likely be done with the hatch closed, but you run more risk of increased labor costs and damage to the inner panel. In other words, it is more cost effective to get it repaired while it still works than to wait until it is totally broken.
I watched a GOOD body man get into the inner panel of a larger Ford SUV using fingers and metal 'spoons' and all kinds of gadgets to release the snaps without damaging the panel, but it was not pretty as the panel had to be distorted to gain access to the release embedded inside the hatch. YMMV
I got your post confused with another, so have to add that you should check the fuse panel[for loose fuses] and all the wiring that you can access for physical damage such as pinching and chafing. The intermittent nature indicates what I said above, but, given that both the window and the hatch don't unlock, it could be the switch. Does it make a difference if you use the key in the drivers door, unlock twice in quick succession to unlock ALL doors and the rear hatch, or use the switch on the armrest? That would give an indication if the armrest switch were failing, readily accessible, or the motor(s?) in the hatch were failing.
tom

 

I too have had this problem for quite some time. Here is how I solved the problem for Free.

First, you will need to get in the back of the Escape. I did this by opening the glass and climbing in. Open the glass door if you can because it will make it will allow you to open and close the door from inside (later on).

You're going to pry the plastic away from the top of the door until you can open it and remove the screws that hold it in place.

Here is a diagram of the locations of the retaining clips.



I was able to easily pry them loose by grabbing the top/middle of the door and pulling up/out (seen below)



Once you have pulled each of the retaining clips loose from the door, your view should look like the picture below.



Start at the bottom middle of the door and work your way up/right diagonally until you find the clip on the end of the threaded bar. In the pictures above and below, it is a sea green color. If you push down/left diagonally on this bar/clip, it will release the hatch and you can now open the door.

I recommend removing the 4 screws in the bottom of the panel that weren't accessible until the door came open.




You should now have easy access the sea green clip that needs to be adjusted. Release the plastic clip with a pry bar or screw driver. [notice the length of threaded bar above clip and compare to the picture later on. To fix the opening problem, you will adjust this piece and see less threads above the plastic clip]



One end of the threaded latch bar should now be loose.
(Notice the sea green clip is open)



You will notice there is a little bit of play in the threaded bar that goes to the latch. Without pushing forcefully, push slightly down on the threaded bar and snap the sea green clip back on the threaded end (with less threads showing above the clip than were showing before).



Now, test the door latch. You may have to play around with it a little until you get the door handle to work consistently.

To put everything back together, just reverse the instructions above. (Being careful to position retaining clips).

Congratulations! You fixed your door free!

P.S. - This is the second known Ford Escape probem I have encountered. ABS Tone Rings are also a problem. If your ABS engages each time you brake, you most likely have a broken ABS tone ring. (the piece that looks like a gear on the front axle - seen below)

 

I would also add that you can get a spray lubricant from Solder Seal, called "GUNK white lithium grease". All the places where you see metal to metal contact and the parts slide can be lubricated and the mechanism will work much more smoothly. It doesn't take much lubricant to make a significant difference. The little black cylinder in the middle bottom of the third picture is the motor that runs to operate the lock. It will run better and last longer if the mechanism is lubricated.

Nice pics and explanation.
tom

 

Just signed up to thank "asipes" for the detailed directions on how to solve this problem. The photos and diagrams were very helpful. Much appreciated!

Also thanks to "tomw" - between the advice from the two of you and a can of WD40 my wife thinks I'm a genius!

Cheers,
Ben

 

Ben,
I'm glad my fix helped you! I had been frustrated with this problem for quite some time, and was surprised to see so many other people had been plagued by it as well. Usually I can find a fix for things like this on the internet, but had trouble finding a fix for this one. I decided I was just going to crack the thing open and try to figure it out myself (and so I did). Then it was just a matter of taking pictures as I put it back together! So glad that I helped someone else out. Hopefully others will find the fix as well!
- Adam (asipes)

 

You should just replace then entire rear lock assembly, or just use the key to open and close.

 

Thank you.....))

 

As stated earlier, there is no place to unlock/open it with a key.

 

It sounds like the motor mechanism has some problem or its jammed. Try using a synthetic oil spray at regular intervals. To open the door you need to remove the panel and unlock it.

 

The hatch (door+window) will open. The window itself will not open. It is not a automatic door/hatch that opens by pushing a button. There is a manual latch for the hatch and one for the window. The window latch does not open the window. I have made sure to have all doors unlocked. This would not be an actuator (just replaced the actuator rod in my blazer) since it is a manual mechanism.

 

tja: take the inner panel off and inspect the mechanism connecting the latch release above the license plate with the mechanism holding the window closed. You will likely find a plastic clip that has broken or fallen out of place so the rod that moves the unlatch mechanism is not connected to the external button. Only way to tell with that is a visual inspection.
tom

 

The response with all the photos is nice but it does not show the 2009 Escape mechanism. There is no threaed rod now. To get the hatch open you can peel back to top plastic (with the glass open). The push the insulation away from the latch area and with a flashlight you can see a spring retainer. To the left of that is a metal clamp. Insert a coat hanger with a hook into the clamp and pull up. This opens the hatch. Still work internittantly but at least you can get it open in a pinch