Looks good 00GT, BruceJeremy sounds like you on the right track get some pics to show progress like 00GT 
Exhaust Manifold Replacement
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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Exhaust Manifold Replacement
F-250, Light Duty, 1997. Exhaust manifold on the passenger side of the vehicle needs replacing. I'd like some tips on what to expect when I start this project.
I am going to follow the Hayne's book with regard to procedure but I'm wondering if anybody could point out any trouble areas or things to watch out for. I am assuming I don't need any welding equipment, just standard tools.
Any advice?
-Mike
I am going to follow the Hayne's book with regard to procedure but I'm wondering if anybody could point out any trouble areas or things to watch out for. I am assuming I don't need any welding equipment, just standard tools.
Any advice?
-Mike
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 448
Likes: 1
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 132
Likes: 5
Nicely done! I think I can do this myself, I'll need to buy a small grinder and some good bits (like the ones in your photo).
So you worked out the studs without having to weld any nuts onto them?
Let me recap: you grind the stud down to the nut, then proceed to grind off the nut. After grinding them all down, the manifold should come right off. Then, work out the remaining studs with a set of vise grips and some lubricant. The new manifold package will come with new studs, which you thread into the holes in the engine block (the kit will also contain a new gasket??). Finally, you position the manifold onto the new studs (and gasket?) and proceed to thread on all the nuts to the proper torque.
Is that about right?
Just want to be sure, as I am pretty far from a pro.....
Thanks a bunch!
-Mike
So you worked out the studs without having to weld any nuts onto them?
Let me recap: you grind the stud down to the nut, then proceed to grind off the nut. After grinding them all down, the manifold should come right off. Then, work out the remaining studs with a set of vise grips and some lubricant. The new manifold package will come with new studs, which you thread into the holes in the engine block (the kit will also contain a new gasket??). Finally, you position the manifold onto the new studs (and gasket?) and proceed to thread on all the nuts to the proper torque.
Is that about right?
Just want to be sure, as I am pretty far from a pro.....
Thanks a bunch!
-Mike
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
I'm currently working on my dads 01' screws passenger side manifold. I'm following (kbsupercrews) how to and its going really well..almost to easy...
the crazy thing my dad paid $1000 to get the driver side done this past summer.
After I'm done with his ill be doing the passenger side on my 03 screw
Heres a couple pics of my progress Thanks to kbsupercrew!
the crazy thing my dad paid $1000 to get the driver side done this past summer.After I'm done with his ill be doing the passenger side on my 03 screw
Heres a couple pics of my progress Thanks to kbsupercrew!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
The manifold(s) usually just come with the gasket. On the DS...that one also comes with the nipple for the EGR tube to connect to. You can buy aftermarket studs and nut as a package ( 8 each) for like $7.00 bucks....but they are not SS. I bought SS studs right from Ford, and some SS nuts at Ace HW. The manifolds usually come with new studs and nuts for the connection to the exhaust pipe.
What I did on mine was drive a 12 point socket onto what was left of each nut. They either came off or the whole stud backed out of the block....which is good in this case. Remember that the studs are not bottomed out in the block, so they usually come out OK. I usually heat them up a snitch with just a propane torch, then tap lightly on the ends. It looks a whole lot worse than it is. Be sure to have a source for a new EGR tube on the DS..You may not get that off. Usually the nut rusts right off those things anyway and leaks.
What I did on mine was drive a 12 point socket onto what was left of each nut. They either came off or the whole stud backed out of the block....which is good in this case. Remember that the studs are not bottomed out in the block, so they usually come out OK. I usually heat them up a snitch with just a propane torch, then tap lightly on the ends. It looks a whole lot worse than it is. Be sure to have a source for a new EGR tube on the DS..You may not get that off. Usually the nut rusts right off those things anyway and leaks.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
The manifold(s) usually just come with the gasket. On the DS...that one also comes with the nipple for the EGR tube to connect to. You can buy aftermarket studs and nut as a package ( 8 each) for like $7.00 bucks....but they are not SS. I bought SS studs right from Ford, and some SS nuts at Ace HW. The manifolds usually come with new studs and nuts for the connection to the exhaust pipe.
What I did on mine was drive a 12 point socket onto what was left of each nut. They either came off or the whole stud backed out of the block....which is good in this case. Remember that the studs are not bottomed out in the block, so they usually come out OK. I usually heat them up a snitch with just a propane torch, then tap lightly on the ends. It looks a whole lot worse than it is. Be sure to have a source for a new EGR tube on the DS..You may not get that off. Usually the nut rusts right off those things anyway and leaks.
What I did on mine was drive a 12 point socket onto what was left of each nut. They either came off or the whole stud backed out of the block....which is good in this case. Remember that the studs are not bottomed out in the block, so they usually come out OK. I usually heat them up a snitch with just a propane torch, then tap lightly on the ends. It looks a whole lot worse than it is. Be sure to have a source for a new EGR tube on the DS..You may not get that off. Usually the nut rusts right off those things anyway and leaks.
Thanks
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: Minnesota
No I don't...sorry. I called 2 Ford dealers here in Minnesota and both said they had them. I know they list them on Ebay...but I didn't like that they didn't a collar on them so they would not bottom out in the block.
FORD 4.6 & 5.4 LITER STAINLESS EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS | eBay
FORD 4.6 & 5.4 LITER STAINLESS EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS | eBay
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 132
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OK, good stuff. I'm growing confident. I just need to get my other vehicle (Toyota Camry) on the road before I do the work on the Ford F-250.....I'll need a back-up vehicle just in case something goes wrong or I need to get parts!
Thanks for the input.
-Mike
Thanks for the input.
-Mike
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: At the Beach
Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using stainless nuts on stainless studs, stainless is a bit "gummy" and the nuts can "gall" on the studs. Which really isn't a problem for this application I guess, since even if the nut locks onto the stud you can use it to back the stud out of the head next time you remove the manifold.
edit: Here's that Dorman exhaust manifold you were asking about, if you need one for the 5.8L.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
Good advice, Sears also makes some damaged nut removal sockets that would probably grab the rusted stud/nut combo.
Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using stainless nuts on stainless studs, stainless is a bit "gummy" and the nuts can "gall" on the studs. Which really isn't a problem for this application I guess, since even if the nut locks onto the stud you can use it to back the stud out of the head next time you remove the manifold.
Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using stainless nuts on stainless studs, stainless is a bit "gummy" and the nuts can "gall" on the studs. Which really isn't a problem for this application I guess, since even if the nut locks onto the stud you can use it to back the stud out of the head next time you remove the manifold.
Yep...I own the small ones and the big ones. I did use those also on a few of the nuts. What is nice about them, is they are short. You can drive them on and even use a box wrench to turn them....or a socket that fits the hex end.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
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From: MICHIGAN
I worked on my dads truck a few hours today..here's a few pictures
I had to call my dad and tell him he now needs a new manifold..oops.
Didnt take a picture but I got all the studs out except the rear top one. The end of the stud is to rusted and small for the stud remover socket to grab on. Any ideas?
I had to call my dad and tell him he now needs a new manifold..oops.
Didnt take a picture but I got all the studs out except the rear top one. The end of the stud is to rusted and small for the stud remover socket to grab on. Any ideas?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
Can you slip a nut over it and put a tack of weld 0n it? I have some really small extractors from Sears....should be something you can drive onto it. Even a 12 point socket driven on it should work as well.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
I used a 5/16 stud extractor. I cant find anything smaller around here. My Sears is closing and don't have squat left. Ive been pb blasting it and I bought a good pair of vise-grips tonight so maybe it will break loose. The others came out real easy. I just don't want to break it off.