Exhaust Manifold Replacement
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
A good vice grip should work, but the problem is you can't turn it perfectly straight....so it breaks. I have some really small ones that would work . Most of that Sears stuff is Irwin. Most auto parts stores have them, or Lowe's...places like that. This is what I have...but not as good. Think I paid like $20 bucks.....but they are tough.
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
I bought that same set but in shallow well. The smallest one is 5/16 it was a tad big for the last stud. There Irwin and i bought them at Advance Auto $25 I've been to Lowes and all the parts places around here and they all have the same kit I have. I found online they do make smaller ones.
While I was at Lowes a bought a mini set of Irwin needle nose vise grips. Welding sounds the best but i don't have one.
While I was at Lowes a bought a mini set of Irwin needle nose vise grips. Welding sounds the best but i don't have one.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
I just went and looked at my small set. There are 5 in the set. They go by numbers....0 to 5. #0 is 3/16ths, and #1 is 1/4". Number 1 is the one on used on the bad ones. They are the ones that have short stem after the extractor, then a hex...like you would put in a drill adapter. I just used a socket that fit the hex with a small ratchet. Don't overlook a 5,6 0r 7 mm deep 12 point....drive it on the end.....They can really grab. We had an Eclipse that had factory locknuts....the security type....one per wheel. The key broke and I used like a 3/4" deep 12 point on drove it on the taper. They came off easier than with right key....LOL.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
I just went and looked at my small set. There are 5 in the set. They go by numbers....0 to 5. #0 is 3/16ths, and #1 is 1/4". Number 1 is the one on used on the bad ones. They are the ones that have short stem after the extractor, then a hex...like you would put in a drill adapter. I just used a socket that fit the hex with a small ratchet. Don't overlook a 5,6 0r 7 mm deep 12 point....drive it on the end.....They can really grab. We had an Eclipse that had factory locknuts....the security type....one per wheel. The key broke and I used like a 3/4" deep 12 point on drove it on the taper. They came off easier than with right key....LOL.
Last edited by 00GT; Feb 5, 2012 at 04:49 PM. Reason: wording
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
Look what I did tonight! I borrowed a 1/4 stud extractor from a guy at work. Well....I thought it started to turn then..... Snap! Everything was going so smooth. It broke off just a tad inside the head. I cant believe it the rest came out so easy. The one that broke is the rear top stud.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
LOL....Time to invest in some LH drill bits. I usually center punch, then start with like 1/8th inch. Look at a new stud and mark your drill for depth. Work your way up in size...usually when you get close the rest of the threads will spin out. good luck and go slow....Do not use some of those cheap extractors that you drive in after you drill a hole . They might work but if they break off they are a bear to grind out.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
LOL....Time to invest in some LH drill bits. I usually center punch, then start with like 1/8th inch. Look at a new stud and mark your drill for depth. Work your way up in size...usually when you get close the rest of the threads will spin out. good luck and go slow....Do not use some of those cheap extractors that you drive in after you drill a hole . They might work but if they break off they are a bear to grind out.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
Ace Hardware has them....I don't think they have a set, but do have a small selection. I got mine at Northern Tool...you don't have that in Michigan though.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 2
From: In my House
00GT, I'll be doing mine on my 01 soon also....My pass side is rotted right thru the manifold, so I have no choice but to get new ones.....Anyone had luck with aftermarket manifolds? Ford wants $$$. I also remember a few guys goin the route of headers that will bolt right up. All my nuts are still in tact, so I may try and see if they will back out
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
00GT, I'll be doing mine on my 01 soon also....My pass side is rotted right thru the manifold, so I have no choice but to get new ones.....Anyone had luck with aftermarket manifolds? Ford wants $$$. I also remember a few guys goin the route of headers that will bolt right up. All my nuts are still in tact, so I may try and see if they will back out
I hope this thread helps some buddy sometime. I'll keep posting pictures. I work best by looking at photos.. lol
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
When I did mine due to leaks on both sides ( busted stud) ....I re-used the old manifolds. That was at 100,000 miles. Now I am at 220,000 miles and both sides developed pinholes that leak. What I have done is buy some of that black stuff in a tube that you use to fix boilers....which are cast also. It's cheap....like $3.00 for a tube. You can get it at a big box store in the fireplace-woodstove area. It actually gets harder as it gets older....sealed the pinholes right up. Also.....the bottom nut on the EGR tube rusted right off.....so THAT was leaking. I solve that by wrapping aluminum tape around it and putting 2 small clamps at the end of the tape. LOL....smells kind of funny for a while.....but works. I can't tie my truck up too long, use it in my business.....so this is just to get me by. I plan on doing all new manifolds, studs, nuts, nipple and ERG tube. I'll go with Dorman, studs from Ford, EGR tube from Rock Auto.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
I would guess they are not as good as OEM, but I just can't justify the OEM price.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 560
Likes: 7
From: MICHIGAN
I got it! Worked on it for 3hrs this morning. The stud was broke off so there wasent a flat surface to drill.
The drill got a little off center so I couldn't go up in size without damaging the threads. So i went and bought a Irwin easy out. Lots of patience and pb blaster. Here's a few pictures.
The drill got a little off center so I couldn't go up in size without damaging the threads. So i went and bought a Irwin easy out. Lots of patience and pb blaster. Here's a few pictures.