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Exhaust Manifold Replacement

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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 03:57 PM
  #31  
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AWSOME Job!! I hope mine go easy when i do it!!
 
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 96f150
AWSOME Job!! I hope mine go easy when i do it!!
Thanks! With the right tools it shouldn't be to bad. Now I have to do mine which has a stud broke off in the head to start with. I'm so excited..I think I'm going to buy that air angle drill from Harbor Freight. I borrowed a craftsman cordless angle drill from a buddy and it to was a little to big to drill the lower studs. The air angle drill looks smaller. Luckily it was the top stud on my dads and i was able to use my regular cordless. Something to keep in mind.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #33  
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Be sure to use anti-seize on the threads when using stainless nuts on stainless studs, stainless is a bit "gummy" and the nuts can "gall" on the studs. Which really isn't a problem for this application I guess, since even if the nut locks onto the stud you can use it to back the stud out of the head next time you remove the manifold.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:49 PM
  #34  
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00GT...Did you end up using Stainless studs or no? Are those studs have some type of flange on them? I am glad that this is working out for you so far. Think it looks like the hardest part is getting the old studs out!!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #35  
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What's the deal with these manifolds, anyway? I have a 97 F350, with a 5.8, and I've replaced both manifolds in the last year. Left had a hairline crack near where the exhaust pipe stud is, and the right one broke in about 3 places. Truck has about 120,000. These are the only manifolds I've ever had break like that.

Wouldn't have anything to do with "made in China" I found on the one, would it?
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 96f150
00GT...Did you end up using Stainless studs or no? Are those studs have some type of flange on them? I am glad that this is working out for you so far. Think it looks like the hardest part is getting the old studs out!!
Yes the studs are stainless. Got them from the Ford dealer for like $4 each. The nuts I got from Lowes. The dealer wanted $1.50 each per nut.
It should be smooth sailing now. I tell you what i was shaking like a leaf when I was turning that broken stud out. Like everyone says just go slow
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 07:40 PM
  #37  
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OK, I'm still prepping for this job. Actually bought a small-ish die grinder from Canadian Tire but I just realized my 10 gallon air compressor is too small to sustain it! Says right on the side of the box it's not recommended for 2-10 gallon compressors. Do you think I'd get enough juice out of my 10 gallon compressor to grind those studs down? The motor would be kicking in something fierce, though!
I've got an electric grinder but it's probably too bulky to get at those bottom studs. Hmmm, what to do? I don't want to be stuck without access to those bottom bolts (I might even have trouble with the top ones.....my electric grinder is quite bulky for such a confined space).
Another thing: the studs I got from Ford seem to be quite small (they're about 1/4 inch in diameter and the holes in the manifold are 7/16 of an inch.....that's about 3/16 worth of play... except for one hole, the top stud hole on the second manifold opening from the rear, which is a much tighter fit). How big are the stud holes in the engine block??? I'm thinking maybe I got studs for a Ranger or something by mistake.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 08:18 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by BruceJeremy
OK, I'm still prepping for this job. Actually bought a small-ish die grinder from Canadian Tire but I just realized my 10 gallon air compressor is too small to sustain it! Says right on the side of the box it's not recommended for 2-10 gallon compressors. Do you think I'd get enough juice out of my 10 gallon compressor to grind those studs down? The motor would be kicking in something fierce, though!
I've got an electric grinder but it's probably too bulky to get at those bottom studs. Hmmm, what to do? I don't want to be stuck without access to those bottom bolts (I might even have trouble with the top ones.....my electric grinder is quite bulky for such a confined space).
Another thing: the studs I got from Ford seem to be quite small (they're about 1/4 inch in diameter and the holes in the manifold are 7/16 of an inch.....that's about 3/16 worth of play... except for one hole, the top stud hole on the second manifold opening from the rear, which is a much tighter fit). How big are the stud holes in the engine block??? I'm thinking maybe I got studs for a Ranger or something by mistake.
I have a 30 gal compressor and the die grinder even sucks the life out of it. I would say a 10gal wouldn't do it. It will just **** you off.

You must have got the wrong studs. The ones i bought are the same size as the old ones and there's no play. They fit perfect.

Good luck
 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:40 PM
  #39  
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I just got off the phone with the parts desk at the Ford dealership. I gave him my truck specs. and the part numbers of the studs I bought from them tally up.
It's probably the after-market exhaust manifold I bought....big holes for the studs, all except for one. It seems logical to me that the studs should fit snugly into all the holes, not just one. The question is: can I proceed with this project without concern for all the play between studs and holes????
I'm also hoping I can use my rotary tool for grinding......
 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by BruceJeremy
I just got off the phone with the parts desk at the Ford dealership. I gave him my truck specs. and the part numbers of the studs I bought from them tally up.
It's probably the after-market exhaust manifold I bought....big holes for the studs, all except for one. It seems logical to me that the studs should fit snugly into all the holes, not just one. The question is: can I proceed with this project without concern for all the play between studs and holes????
I'm also hoping I can use my rotary tool for grinding......

My OEM manifold holes are bigger than the stud. I think it is that way for expansion. I had a stud that was broken off flush with the manifold. The hole in the manifold was big enough that I actually took a new flange nut, ground the hex into a tapered cone, and had enough room to grab about 3 threads. I cut a shallow **** in the flange and a few light raps set it....been good for over a year.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #41  
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OK, sounds good. I'm just going to go ahead and do this thing!
Thanks for the quick response.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 05:50 PM
  #42  
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00GT man u do have horseshoes where the sun dont shine. Anyways like 00Gt says go slow.....and Bruce jeremy where do u live up here in Canuckland? Also if you use the die grinder with your 10 gallon receiver you will grind for abt 4-8 seconds and have to wait to build up pressure....But then you are going slow right?lol

Ken


08 F 150 FX/4


PS remember what 00GT says everyone and go slow....

 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #43  
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00GT nice work
 
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:11 PM
  #44  
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 03:42 AM
  #45  
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I live in Peterborough, Ontario. Hopefully I can knock this project off tomorrow.
 
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