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That connector shouldn't be very loose, but 1/8" might be feasible to move even tight, if it was too loose and losing connection it would stall your truck however. Should have a code though for ICP not at desired or similar.
Did you check your battery terminals. I had something similar happen to me. The truck would just intermittently cut out and sometimes start back. The smaller gauge red wire on the drivers side battery would shake itself loose and then re-tighten itself randomly. So check those batter terminals.
I checked,cleaned, and retightened the cables on Tuesday the first day of stranded-ness. Im goin all out. Ive got a box of goodies waiting at the dealership for me tomorrow.ICP,EBP,IPR,CMP. I pulled everything apart today,and noticed Im going to also need the o-rings for the ends of the four fuel lines that connect to the fuel/water separator,dealer doesnt have them in stock so hopefully I can find some locally and fast.I also need a HPOP mounting gasket,ECT sensor,Fuel heater,and a Intake Air Heater.Im also getting a EBP circuit malfunction code that will not go away. I need my truck back--FAST.
Well I know I need a EBP sensor,because it shows 53 psi on the scanner whether its idling,wide open,or key on engine off.I know I need a ICP sensor because its connector fills up with oil.I dont trust the CMP sensor from the auto parts store,because from what I hear,they are unreliable. And Im pretty sure that I need a IPR valve because its a known part to go wrong and cause these issues,plus, the way my luck goes,its usually the most expensive part that is causing the problem.Which this is. And although I dont like the "throw parts at it till its fixed" theory,its too far to walk to work,and I need it running pronto! Ive got an 8.5' WESTERN V plow sitting in my garage,and I know its only a matter of time before we have 10" of snow dumped on us and I doubt the wife would like me to strap it on her 07 Edge.
How can you tell if its sticking? I removed it from the HPOP,split it in half, but didnt know how much could be taken out before causing irreversable damage, or what special tools would be needed to completely gut it. Is there a plunger that could be pressed in and out to check for stickage? Is stickage even a word?
Ive replaced the IPR,ICP,EBP, today, took a bit to get it fired up. But once oil pressure arrived, it fired up. I drove it to the spots where it left me stranded,and back again with no issues. I have a couple questions though. What holds oil pressure after the truck is shut off? Is it the IPR, or the HPOP,or something else? And the other question is, What is the rod controlling on top of the turbo? And what is the rod controlling on the bottom of the turbo? Hopefully tomorrow morning on the way to work will not prove that my money went down the ****ter. I really appreciate all of your ideas and advice. Thanks to all that provided insight on my issues.------JOE
Well. So far,So good. Ive been driving the truck for a week now with no issues. So was it the ICP, or the IPR? Who knows, but its running. One thing I noticed. When I first start the truck when cold. The high idle kicks in and it sounds like something is blocking the the turbo,when listening to the exhaust. Ive never heard that before. So maybe replacing the EBP sensor is allowing the EBP valve to do its job. Anyways, thank you guys a million. This site is a major time saver.