Another NO START
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Another NO START
Ok, been searching threads all day and driving myself crazy. It's time to ask.
Truck is a 2001 F250 with 7.3L and no mods. Left the house and drove 7 miles at 60mph. No problems or hints of a problem. After slowing to make a right turn when picking up speed the engine just quit. Like turning off the key. Changed the fuel filter and drained the bowl on the side of the road still no start. Water in fuel light and wait to start light blink on and off plus check engine soon light stays on. Fuel bowl would fill in spurts with key turn. Towed it home. Removed bowl heater and ICP plugs still no start. Listening to the fuel pump it runs and stops. No fuses blown but did replace ignition switch with no help. Code reader comes on but is unable to connect. Any ideas? Would the cam position sensor cause the fuel pump to stop? Thanks.
Truck is a 2001 F250 with 7.3L and no mods. Left the house and drove 7 miles at 60mph. No problems or hints of a problem. After slowing to make a right turn when picking up speed the engine just quit. Like turning off the key. Changed the fuel filter and drained the bowl on the side of the road still no start. Water in fuel light and wait to start light blink on and off plus check engine soon light stays on. Fuel bowl would fill in spurts with key turn. Towed it home. Removed bowl heater and ICP plugs still no start. Listening to the fuel pump it runs and stops. No fuses blown but did replace ignition switch with no help. Code reader comes on but is unable to connect. Any ideas? Would the cam position sensor cause the fuel pump to stop? Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
CPS won't cause the fuel pump to stop, but the fuel pump is supposed to cycle off after 30 seconds or so if the truck is not started. How quickly does the pump cycle off?
The water in fuel and check engine light flashing, along with fuel pump not working right sound more like the computer is being reset due to a short to ground.
I'd start by checking the wiring below and behind the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover. Also check the wiring going to the ICP and IPR to make sure nothing is shorted out or chaffed there. Any of those wires that are chaffed and have copper exposed can cause a sudden stall if the wire touches metal.
If you can get it running, let it idle and grab all the wiring you can see and wiggle it. See if the truck stalls when you shake a certain harness and go from there.
The water in fuel and check engine light flashing, along with fuel pump not working right sound more like the computer is being reset due to a short to ground.
I'd start by checking the wiring below and behind the 42 pin connector over the driver side valve cover. Also check the wiring going to the ICP and IPR to make sure nothing is shorted out or chaffed there. Any of those wires that are chaffed and have copper exposed can cause a sudden stall if the wire touches metal.
If you can get it running, let it idle and grab all the wiring you can see and wiggle it. See if the truck stalls when you shake a certain harness and go from there.
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I haven't checked the pin connector yet but with the fuel filter out the bowl would not fill except by turning the key on and off which would tell me the pump only runs for a few seconds. Not a mechanic and not really sure about the operation of the fuel system, but after this I will know.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
Fuel pump should come on and stay on for 20 or 30 seconds with the key if the truck is not started. If it's only a few seconds, leave the key in the on position and listen for the fuel pump. When it shuts off after a couple of seconds, start wiggling the wires. If you hear the fuel pump come back on, look for the short in that harness.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Sioux Falls, SD
What type of code reader are you using?
in addition to what Chris said - the fuel pump is on the frame on the drivers side just forward of the fuel tank. When the key is on and the bowl is filling check to see if the pump is working from down here as well. The description definitely sounds like a short or a chip that isn't contacting correctly - but he said it was stock so it can't be a chip.
in addition to what Chris said - the fuel pump is on the frame on the drivers side just forward of the fuel tank. When the key is on and the bowl is filling check to see if the pump is working from down here as well. The description definitely sounds like a short or a chip that isn't contacting correctly - but he said it was stock so it can't be a chip.
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Update. Changed CPS and IPC replaced the CPU relay and checked all fuses. still no start. Now the starter will engage then disengage. At a loss for what to try next. The code reader is a SuperChip and it will still not connect. Get a buzzing from under the dash when it tries. Is there a relay behind the radio? It makes noise when the wts light goes on and off. The only positive thing is the service engine light is not on. Go figure....
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I'd be very inclined to re-check the wiring you did at the ignition switch. The fuel pump not cycling for the normal 20-30 seconds with ignition turned on is suspect.
As for the "buzzing" around the radio - are you talking the normal vacuum pump running under the hood (located in upper passenger corner of engine compartment), or is this a new sound? If this is a new sound, and it is a relay, a buzzing relay typically is from voltage that is right on the threshold of what it takes to drive it - so I'd lean towards the previous advice of making sure your batteries are load tested. Do that first!
Was it raining, or did you just come from a car wash, when this originally happened?
As for the "buzzing" around the radio - are you talking the normal vacuum pump running under the hood (located in upper passenger corner of engine compartment), or is this a new sound? If this is a new sound, and it is a relay, a buzzing relay typically is from voltage that is right on the threshold of what it takes to drive it - so I'd lean towards the previous advice of making sure your batteries are load tested. Do that first!
Was it raining, or did you just come from a car wash, when this originally happened?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
X2on the battery connections. Chattering relay, is definitely a voltage issue and IF your batteries are brand new and IF they hold a charge when load tested, then there is corrosion and/or a loose connection from one or both batteries. You may have to look at cutting back some of the insulation on the battery cables and see if there is any green powder in the braid of the wiring. It usually starts at the ends.