Hello All. Ive got a random stall issue going on. 2000 F250,7.3,auto,crew cab,4x4,short box,xlt.196,000 miles. No mods,chips,tuners,etc. Last week the truck stalled once,refired,and has been fine since yesterday. 6:30 a.m. I go out to the truck(in the garage) start it and head to work.About 15 degrees outside temp. Ten minutes into driving the engine stalls at 60mph. I put it in neutral,and it fires up, but then dies 5 seconds later. On the side of the road the truck would run longer,the longer I let it cool down. I towed it home to the garage,and started checking connections and looking for obvious problems. The only code was a Exhaust Backpressure performance code.I pulled the EBP sensor,and the sensor,connector,and tube were all completely plugged with carbon.Cleaned them out,and reinstalled.Later that day I drove the truck around and had no issues.This morning same thing,heading to work.Truck dies. Restarts.But dies right away.Part store roadside assisted me a cam sensor. But that only got me two miles further away from home. Stranded again. What I noticed was if the engine dies,and I dont turn the key to off before retrying to start it,it will not start,and no tach reference. But if I turn the key from off to run(the wait to start light comes on and you can hear the fuel pump running) and the engine will fire up right away--sometimes. There are times where I turn the key from off to run,and the WTS light and fuel pump noise are on for only a second and the engine will not start.The WTS light and the fuel pump noise stop at the exact same time. Engine idles and injection pressure reads between 480 psi and 515psi. Is that normal? Exhaust back pressure reading stays at 53 psi. Im sure the EBP sensor needs to be replaced from being plugged. But any help would be a big help.Thanks.

 

Maybe the injector driver module? Im gonna have a flat forehead soon,and a dented wall.

 

I would start off, not using a parts store CPS, get a Ford or International.

But your issue sounds more like a poor connection or shorting fuel bowl heater, try unplugging it, replacing fuse #30 and see if the issue goes away.

 

I did disconnect the fuel heater--no change. I checked all fuses with a test light(under hood and in cab) I also tried unplugging the ICP connector but the engine would not fire at all. Another thing I remembered is that every time the engine would stall-the truck would fail to communicate with the scanner. That was why I tried unplugging the fuel heater,because I found a shorted heater caused no communication with scanner on a friends truck. But if it was the heater,why would it be fine for ten miles then quit?

 

I am thinking along the lines of an intermittent short or connection, not enough to blow the fuse but enough to kill the PCM relay, could be the relay itself too, I suppose. Definitely sounds electrical. Since you don't have a chip, I guess there is not a loose connection there to worry about either.

 

You are still thinking fuel heater issue? Even though disconnecting the heater connector doesnt change the outcome?

 

Not directly a heater issue, anymore, electrical though.

 

Does the oil pressure seem high enough? Im not sure what pressure is supposed to be at idle.

 

Your oil psi is spot on for idle.

 

In addition to the other symptoms. Ive also found that after the engine stalls,I pulled the dipstick(engine oil). There are bubbles on it. So something is aerating the oil. Could the IPR do that? The EBP sensor is reading 53 PSI with KOEO,as well as WOT with engine running. Could the EBP sensor shut the engine down? Scanning and looking at the data stream,KOEO,the engine coolant temp is -40F,and the engine oil temp is 286F. That seems odd,but I also looked at another truck(same year,engine,etc) that runs fine but had the same temp readings.

 

Engine oil seems really warm. Engine coolant I have never been able to read correctly, I didn't think it went through the PCM actually. The EBP sensor will not shut down the truck you can leave it unplugged, many do, and it will run fine.

On the aeration, are we talking about a lot of tiny bubbles, or a couple relatively big bubbles?

Have you tried a non parts store CPS yet?

 

Im going to Ford tomorrow for a CPS,ICP,EBP,and possibly a IPR. The aeration bubbles on the dipstick are both tiny like wine bubbles throughout the oil,as well as bigger bubbles towards the top of the stick. 20 minutes after shutting off the truck,I pulled the ICP sensor off and there was no pressure behind the sensor. The donor truck has been sitting for months,and when I removed the ICP sensor there was pressure behind it and it spewed oil out of the sensor hole.What holds the oil pressure from bleeding back when the engine is shut off,the IPR? Maybe thats my issue. Can the IPR cause bubbles?

 

Is it normal for the connector on the IPR to be loose? I can grab it and move it side to side about 1/8".

 

The connector going into the coil? It should be pretty tight, are you sure you are not feeling the coil moving?

 

The black plastic connector attached to the IPR,that the IPR pigtail plugs into, is what is loose.