Ignition wiring question--push button
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
Ignition wiring question--push button
Wondering if anyone can help with wiring a new push button for starting the truck. 76 F100 2wd
When I bought it it had a push button already wired up, it is 2 wires, both connect to the solenoid, one on the post with the + battery cable and the other on the s terminal.
I bought this switch which came with no wiring instructions, so i found this picture of it Illuminated Push Button Start Switch 12v street rat rod lighted red green blue | eBay although the picture seems wrong, I have it wired #1 hot from the solenoid/battery, #2 is s terminal on solenoid, #3 goes to ground.
It will start the truck, but the light seems to stay on regardless of key position, and the button will activate the starter regardless of key position as well, matter of fact, the key doesnt even need to be in to start it.
What I REALLY want is to have the switch light only when the key is on, and have the switch only activate the starter when the key is in and on.
Anyone have experience with this or an idea of what to do to make it light and work only when the key is in and on?
When I bought it it had a push button already wired up, it is 2 wires, both connect to the solenoid, one on the post with the + battery cable and the other on the s terminal.
I bought this switch which came with no wiring instructions, so i found this picture of it Illuminated Push Button Start Switch 12v street rat rod lighted red green blue | eBay although the picture seems wrong, I have it wired #1 hot from the solenoid/battery, #2 is s terminal on solenoid, #3 goes to ground.
It will start the truck, but the light seems to stay on regardless of key position, and the button will activate the starter regardless of key position as well, matter of fact, the key doesnt even need to be in to start it.
What I REALLY want is to have the switch light only when the key is on, and have the switch only activate the starter when the key is in and on.
Anyone have experience with this or an idea of what to do to make it light and work only when the key is in and on?
Last edited by chesire17201; Jan 24, 2012 at 07:59 PM. Reason: cant spell
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: New Albany, MS
You'll have to connect the one that goes to the battery terminal of the solenoid up to a keyed ignition source instead, such as the yellow pigtail under the dash that has provisions for three bullet connectors.
I like cranking my truck with key, but each to his on.
I like cranking my truck with key, but each to his on.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
If I interpret the diagram in your link correctly, it tells you to connect post #3 to hot-at-all-times through a fuse. Post #2 should go to the 'S' post of the solenoid. This will make the button activate the starter solenoid anytime the button is pushed.
The diagram then goes on to say that you illuminate the switch by grounding post #1. To make this happen with the key in RUN, you'll need to add a relay off the ignition switch. The relay coil would need to be powered from a hot-in-RUN circuit. The relay contacts would then switch ground to the light in the switch - one contact would connect to post #1, and the other contact would connect to ground.
Even if you're using a push-button switch, the key needs to be turned to RUN for the ignition system to get power. If your truck can actually start with the key completely removed, then someone has modified the wiring, and I'm surprised your battery doesn't drain.
The diagram then goes on to say that you illuminate the switch by grounding post #1. To make this happen with the key in RUN, you'll need to add a relay off the ignition switch. The relay coil would need to be powered from a hot-in-RUN circuit. The relay contacts would then switch ground to the light in the switch - one contact would connect to post #1, and the other contact would connect to ground.
Even if you're using a push-button switch, the key needs to be turned to RUN for the ignition system to get power. If your truck can actually start with the key completely removed, then someone has modified the wiring, and I'm surprised your battery doesn't drain.
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Senior User
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
You'll have to connect the one that goes to the battery terminal of the solenoid up to a keyed ignition source instead, such as the yellow pigtail under the dash that has provisions for three bullet connectors.
I like cranking my truck with key, but each to his on.
I like cranking my truck with key, but each to his on.
will try that tomorrow when it's light out, thanks.
I like the key too, but it was already wired for a push button start when I got it and the keyed ignition is broken right now, so i figure just keep the push button, I'll be the only one driving it, so I don't mind it.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
What you could probably do then, is permanently ground post #1. So when you turn the key to RUN, the light will turn ON, and the switch will be live. Then pushing the switch would crank the starter. So:
Post #1: ground
Post #2: 'S' post of starter solenoid
Post #3: keyed power
No relay necessary then. Sorry for the confusion.
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
Yes fmc, right now it doesn't even need a key to start, just more stuff I have to fix, I haven't noticed any battery drain, but then again right now until I get the new floors, cab mounts and windshield in, it just sits in the garage.
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
ok, new question.....If I'm going to leave the push button start in, I may as well wire it to work without a key at all, which wires on the key switch need to be put on a toggle to turn the acc power on?
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From: New Albany, MS
I would highly recommend not doing this. It is not that hard to replace an ignition switch. Sound like you have some wiring gremlins though, and if you don't chase them down now and smite them, they will leave stranded time and time again.
If you do try to fix your electrical problems make sure you have the proper tools first.
If you do try to fix your electrical problems make sure you have the proper tools first.
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From: Chambersburg, Pa
Decided against wiring the key switch to a toggle, but did pull the PO wiring out and run new for the push button, so at least I know it's done the way I would do it and not hacking up the original wiring, also fixed it so you NEED the key in and on to start the truck. Thanks to all for the help on this.
In case you were wondereing about the wiring, that photo on the back of the package is WRONG, got the real wiring diagram from the company Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies today, and it is as follows if anyone gets one. Del City have lots of electrical supplies at about 1/2 the cost of most stores, BUT, they don't ship in retail packaging.
terminal 1 12v switched ( I used the yellow 3 outlet bullet connector in the dash)
terminal 2 S terminal on starter solenoid
terminal 3 ground
wired this way will start the truck, and only activate the the illumination when the button is pushed.
In case you were wondereing about the wiring, that photo on the back of the package is WRONG, got the real wiring diagram from the company Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies today, and it is as follows if anyone gets one. Del City have lots of electrical supplies at about 1/2 the cost of most stores, BUT, they don't ship in retail packaging.
terminal 1 12v switched ( I used the yellow 3 outlet bullet connector in the dash)
terminal 2 S terminal on starter solenoid
terminal 3 ground
wired this way will start the truck, and only activate the the illumination when the button is pushed.
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