Ok, I have a switch and key from my parts truck (Fred). My truck (Mater) didn't come with a key. I pulled the locks from Fred's doors as well so the key would.
My question is that I'm thinking Mater had a 'push button' start switch to engage the starter. (Which I think is cool).
Fred's ignition switch has 4 key positions. One position to the left puts power from the batt to the accessory. Center position is off and allows you to remove the key. One position to the right, puts power to the acc and the coil, the ON position. Then there is a 'momentary' position past this to right which puts power to the center connector on the back of the switch. (You have to hold the key in this position.) One would assume this would connect to the starter solenoid. However this would eliminate the need for the push button.
The wiring diagrams don't show this added pole on the switch.
I can wire it so that the push button will work and simply not use this center 'momentary' pole.
OR
I could wire it so that you have to use "both hands" to start the truck... turn the key to this momentary start position, AND push the starter button at the same time. The advantage to this would be that you wouldn't be able to push the starter button (thereby engaging the starter) accidentally while the engine was running. (Unless of course you used both hands... duh.)
Does anyone know how/why????

I could just pull Mater's switch and see if it has this 'momentary' pole.. but that would be too easy... Thought I would pick youall's brains first....
Thanks in advance.

 

Never thought of the two handed approach, might be a good theft deterent, but might also keep you sitting still if you forget. I have trouble getting the sequence right on my quad. red button, yellow switch, in N, turn key, or is it switch, red, key, N........... darn!!!! Anyway, this is Sy, I am on here trying to locate a guy having trouble with an ignition switch, but not this trouble. In case I get lost in here someplace, if anyone knows of him please let him know. Some ignition switches on the market have a little triangular piece of extra metal that should not be there, you can file it off or get a new switch. Just be careful to check with wherever you get it about the defect. You can tell the bad ones like this, 1 they came from Carpenter originally but might not be in thier bag of course. 2 all the posts on the back are the same size, "length" A Ford switch had a longer post on the ACC side.

 

Steve Hi!..,I have to admit I've also been thinking of adding the 'cool' push button to my project..just haven't got that far yet,...LoL.
I did find the swx though, and plan on incorporating it in one way or another.
I thought I would wire it into the run circuit..but I also have to say ,I like your idea ..
I would just wire it in series with the factory 'momentary' ..kinda like an added theft deterent...a dummy swx that isn't dumb..
That really cut's across my grain, because I like to have both..or at least ONE hand on the wheel..LoL
Another alternative is placing the swx on hte floor., in the dimmer swx position..
Good to hear from ya!

 

Sy , Was .that person attempting to wire up a 302 fuel-injection system?
I posted on that thread earlier today.

 

I dont have a clue, but let us know if
more info comes your way

 

Did the original pushbutton not complete the circuit to ground instead of sending current to the solenoid?

your would be custom wiring anyhoo... so it won't really matter.

In any event, you can wire it to use both switch and button...

there may be some disadvantages... a stalling situation when u are in the way of something... ??

still neat though.

 

I'm still wondering how it is "supposed" to be wired? Is this particular key switch not designed to be used with a push button? How was the push button originally wired?
Still curious.

 

On Bonus Built trucks, the starter button was completely independent of the ignition switch. The button grounded the solenoid and hitting it with the truck in gear while working on the truck could make for exciting times, it was always active. Those were a single-wire button. From '53-on, they were two-wire and AFAIK they were only "hot" when the key was On. They sent power to the solenoid. There was no "Start" (spring-loaded momentary contact) position on the starter switch. If you want to use a button just send power to one from the Ign terminal on the key switch.

It probably would confuse most younger thieves, on the other hand you need to make sure it never gets bumped with the engine running!

 

Might not fool as many young kids as you might think, there's a "cool" factor to adding a push button starter switch among the tuner crowd, so much so that some of the manufacturers have started (pun unintended) adding them to the standard features list on some new sporty cars.
What was old to us OFs is new to the youngsters...

 

Steve,
My '56 came with an ignition switch like the one you have described (4 position, no starter button). I "assume" that it was correct.
The '53 I had and the '54 in the barn have the 3 postion switch (ACC/OFF/RUN) and the push button. Maybe yours was switched at some time during it's history and "someone" put in a '56 or later switch.

Your idea sounds cool, but ghall brings up a good point if the truck stalls while rolling down the road. Now you have to take both hands off the steering wheel to restart or coast to the side of the road and start from there.

Good Luck!

 

I really like the idea of connecting the momentary switch position and the push button is series, so that you need two hands. Sounds like a good theft deterrent and protection against engaging the starter accidentally.

I have never needed to restart while moving, but with a stick, you just pop the clutch anyway, don't you?

 

That gets exciting with 3.92 or higher gears! But yep, that is what I would do.

 

Of course it depends on the individual situation...

mainly speed..

Non of 'us' have ever dumped clutch too fast and stalled out.....

 

On that starter button wiring, I looked at my truck. I have a 4 position ignition switch too. The power from the starter solenoid (where the battery cable is hooked up) comes in and attaches to the "B" post on the back of the switch. Then a wire goes from that "B" post to the starter button. Lastly, on the other side of the starter button is a wire that goes to the "S" on the starter solenoid.

Later, Juls (the new chick)