I don't have a shop manual for my son's (SGT/USMC in Iraq) '98 Expediiton, and it needs a brake job. Is there anything that will get me in trouble on this model that I should know about before I get it up on the jack-stands? I have replaced rotors and pads on my own Grand Voyager and Subaru but I have the manuals on those so I am a little bolder whe it comes to ripping them apart. (Plus they are mine and if i screw up I only hurt myself.)

Are there any web resources that have generic Ford brake job instructions? If I don't have to add the price of a shop manual to this job that would be a good thing. If I could afford to have this job done, I wouldn't be tackling it. (There is always the library - they might have a manual.)

Thanks

Proud Dad

 

Hi klimala and welcome to FTE

The Expedition is easy to do brakes on. For some instructions you can take a look at

 

Could Someone Please tell me in advance what is needed tool wise for this job, besides the obvious, such as what is required to take of the caliper? My Escort is a #12 TORX if I remeber correctly,
My jeep is a 9/16 socket ( which I love why doesnt more manufacturers do this?) Curious as to what the expedition requires so I can eliminate putting it back together and running to the store and then taking it al lback apart again if I dont have the correct tool..
Thank you!

Ron
99 XLT 4.6 (puny motor)

 

Brakes are very simple. All you need are a couple metric sockets and a #45 Torx.

 

Thank you Sir!!

Looks like that will be my weekend job!!

 

So how much is too much for a "shop manual"? Is $5.00 for a CD-ROM too much? If you take a moment and browse Ebay Motors , you can usually find hundreds of sellers offering Factory Ford Service CD-ROMs for $5. Add $5.00 shipping and you still have only spent $10. If you have a DVD drive in your computer you can also find various Ford Service DVDs as well. If you dont consider making a $25 donaton to be too much of an Expense, you can get a 1996-2004 Ford Service DVD (same one Ford Dealerships use) from Flatrate Tech - just look for the link for donations! This way, when your son gets back, you can give him the CD or DVD and then he will also have the service information available for the next time something needs fixing.

Michael

 

Thanks for all the good info - including the CD's. I bought my manuals when I bought the cars (new) and they were like $75 bux or more - (hardcopy). (ms6073)

I did go to the Chilton's site to review, and like everyone says - looks pretty straightforward. (Racerguy)

Got a question about the torx tho.... might have to stop at Sears on the way home. My co-worker brought me a #47 torx which he claims he uses on his super-cab deisel F250. (buzzard)

 

Never seen a #47, only ......35, 40, 45, 50....

 

Got home at 4:30 and was cleaning up at 6:00 - that included an oil / filter change. Only needed to do the front set. No suprises.

The torx I needed was a 45 (sears) and the one i borrowed is definitely at 47 - had to put the eye loupe on to confirm - it had been thru a house fire and been discolored. The logo is "TORX T47 - Lisle- USA"

Thanks again everyone.

Tom

 

just want to let you know. i have 98 thatneeded brakes awhile ago. i ran into 1 major problem.. rotors are supposed nto be full floating however even after a 20 ton press couldn't part rotor and hub, i turned the 2 together. other than that it would have been a cinch..

 

Besides the #45 torx, do you need any other special brake tools?

How often are the brakes supposed to be "bled" and how does one go about doing it?

Someone told me that it's difficult in the expy to line up the pads with the caliper pistons, is that true??

 

no extra tools - i used the torx on a 3/8" drive ratchet, wire brush and a big screw driver to pry the old pad away from the disk to compress the pistons - some people open the bleed screw to make it easier - i don't - i just put the screwdrive in one of the openings and of the caliper and catch the "ear" of the pad and pry against the caliper housing. just go slow.

See Racerguy append for the year make model chilton's site - everything you need to know is there....even tips on bleeding them...like start at the farthest wheel from the master cylinder...

No problem getting the pads in. The chilton's says you can just loosen the upper pin (bolt) and tilt the pad up, but since you have to take it off to brush the rust - whats the point? -

Supplies: brake quiet paste - high temp grease - piece of wire to hang the caliper from the shock tower - don't let it hang from the hose.

 

i use a C-clamp and the old pad or you can get the proper tool at a parts store for about 4 or 5 bucks
dont squeeze it down too fast or youll get fluid leaking out of the resorvoir or possibly screw up your lines???? not sure but ive been told it can happen

 

Just Did Mine this weekend, and Mine WAS a 47 Torx..a 45 fit way to loosely, so it may go by years. Mine is a 99


Ron
99 xlt 4.6

 

I'm going to be doing the rear pads on my 98 Expy next weekend. I need to know do the pistons on the rear calipers push back with a C-clamp like the front ones, or are they threaded?