As most of us have noticed the factory gauges just barely let a driver know what is really going on with the engine. Some called them glorified idiot lights etc, but if one truly wants an idea of the vitals a set of aftermarket gauges are a necessity.

However, I absolutely hate seeing the "3 gauge pod" bracket just screwed into the lower dash. Extremely cheesy. A-pillar pods are nice, but not easily had for the early Rangers.

My choice? Removing the radio, which didn't work anyways and putting the gauges there.

I had already done this similar idea with my 74...



I really like the digital Cyberdyne gauges, but this time around I won a brand new complete set of the cheap SunPro gauges for .99 cents on eBay. Figured why not!?!

Bent the 14 gauge bracket face at work, copying the radio adaptor that was installed previously. Then drilled out the gauge holes with a 2 1/16" hole saw.




I still wanted to keep the factory gauges operational, so a tee-fitting was installed for the oil pressure...



As for coolant, same issue. I wanted the factory gauge to work, plus I couldn't remove the coolant sensor for the ECM. Drilled and tapped the auxillary "bung" located above the factory gauge sensor.



I still have clean-up to do with silicone sealer and metal shavings etc... but all seems well so far. And if any of the SunPro gauges take a dump, replacing them along the way won't break the bank... I'm only out 99 cents, as I already had brass fittings and the metal was scrap at work. Also made my own oil pressure line at work instead of using the cheap nylon tubing.

Cheers,

Josh

 

Nice job on the gauges, looks professionally done. I'm old school & prefer analog gauges. The more gauges the more I like it. I like monitoring for trends, or being able to spot problems before they become catastrophic, like when we have a red warning light for oil pressure, or a danged idiot light oil pressure type gauge, that reads mid scale any time oil pressure is above about 7 psi!!!!

Multi engine aircraft flight engineers consoles had a wall of analog gauges mounted so that all gauges needle pointed up at the 12;00 oclock position when in their normal operating range. That way one didn't have to actually read each engines gauge set, just glance at the panel & an out of tolerance gauge needle would stand out like a sore thumb & call your attention right to it.

Now if its precision one needs, then digitial wins hands down, but I sure wouldn't want to have to look at an instrument panel full of digitial gauges, all blinking a different number, that would quickly drive me nuts!!!!

 

I have tried Cyberdyne gauges and have had to return all of them except one. The L.E.D. digit goes out. Some of the replacements have failed as well. So now, as those cheap gauges fail again, they get replaced with Autometer, at three times the price. Returning two of Cyberdynes tomorrow. As for gauge placement, i removed the stock gauge cluster on the dash, behind steering wheel. Made my own gauge bezel from 1/4 " aluminum and fit it in there. Put the 2/18 O.D. gauges in the pre drilled holes for them. Painted the shiny aluminum black so light does not reflect in my eyes when lookin at the instruments.

 

Let's see a pic!

That's weird how much bad luck you've had with Cyberdyne. I really like them.

Josh

 

At one time i posted two Pics. on the 1987 to 1996 F series forum, cause i have an F 150 too. I may be able to do a search and find that post. I returned a Cyberdyne 2 1/16 O.D. voltmeter and the one i got back had a design change and i had to modify the gauge to fit in the custom gauge bezel. In the works is the same type of gauge cluster for my 88 Ranger. What i did like about Cyberdyne is the digits are much larger than the Summit brand gauges and just a hair larger than Autometer brand.