Rear output seal leaking on my F350 460 4x4. Really dont know much about them other than keeping them wet with oil! Do I have a 1356? it has a PTO cover on it. Where do I start? do I need to pull the thing? should I replace the chain if it seems worn?

Thanks in advanced

 

Got any pics? So we know what it looks like exactly.

 

If it's the truck in your picture, it should be a 1356. A picture will confirm it. Replacing the seal is easy - park with the nose of the truck downhill if possible. Remove the rear driveshaft and be prepared to catch some fluid from the t-case with a pan. Use a large screwdriver and a regular hammer to pry the metal lip of the seal away from the body of the output shaft housing. Go around the housing, the seal will begin to move out. Be aware that the outpus shaft housing is soft, so be gentle with it. Tap the new seal in place, using an empty tin can or similar cylinder as a seal driver, so you distribute the forge around the metal lip. If you are very careful, you can tap around the edges with the hammer to seat the seal. Replace the driveshaft. Remove the upper fill plug of the t-case while on level ground and add Dexron III until it is full to the fill plug hole. Done!

You do not need to pull the t-case to replace the rear output seal. However, if you have more than 150,000 miles, its a very good idea to remove the t-case and split it to perform an upgrade to the oil pump drive arm. It has a habit of wearing through it's retaining notch in the case, and will cause great damage to the t-case if it does so. You will need a T50 torx bit, large snap ring pliers, and "blind" snap ring pliers to split the case, besides regular hand tools.

 

I replaced the driveshaft seal on my 1356 as described above and it still leaked. I had to remove the rear extension housing and replace the bushing in there that the driveshaft slip-yoke rides inside. So a new seal may fix your problem, but if not, you need to replace the bushing as well.

 

95s had 1356 t-cases . They use a slip yolk for the rear shaft.

96/97 had 4407 t-cases. They use a bolt on style yolk

 

Thanks everyone, sorry for not posting back sooner, been pretty busy. I can grab a pic if need be, but it is a slip yoke driveshaft, and yeah...dumb me, has 1356 on the side lol

Thanks for the tip jas, should get to it this weekend.

 

This is probably the incorrect way to ask questions. but Im researched to death. on top of beat to death.
No one will agree what a idiot I have been throughout this "oil pan gasket fix" more than myself. that has lead me a month in a half of beatings reminding me the limits of my tools and knowledge
Ok after realizing that the oil pan is not easily replaced without pulling the engine. 1988! if you think otherwise. be my guest. I could do it NOW. but I still thik its esier to pull. even if you dont own hoist.
So dad suggest bearing replace. fine might as well. problems sure.
the entertaining begins with my lack of attention to a few precautions. like COVER INTAKE MANIFOLD.
AFTER AN EPIC RETEAR APART. FOUND nut in cylynder# 5
well cool. Found the upper end needed to be tore up anyway. now I got new head gaskets intake too. I know my heads are good blah bla. motor now clean even though most would do what I just dont have the money to do.
getting to the point, after some other bonehead stunts, finally the engine starts, sounds great. everything is promising. EXEPT>
the loud clanging knock, that sounds what I would think was surely a rod, after all the motor siezed on that damn nut.
as it turns out I wish it had been. I have mated a trans mission or two and never had a problem guess i was lucky, for this time i am not.
I do not know really the first thing about trans. torqu con. but I do know that the pump had to be damaged, due to the fluid leak that was not ther. also that the noise is 99.99999999999% the torque c. or input sh. not the flexplate, although I had to really thought for a while that dust shield had some to do with. but not now.
what I know is this. there is a lot of movement in shaft, now that Im told its ok that it will pull all the way out. wierd! the noise is constant when running jiving with acceleration up and down. it does diminish at times. but briefly......the leak. knowing I tried to mate it by bolting to the motor. and a visual shimmy observing from underneath on stands, that coencides with sound. so.....
Im broke, ssick a lookin at it. but.. I got to drive
How much damage could possibly b done by misalighnment damage. I have driven it just a short ways test drive. miles maybe.
I guesse this is a long winded, what all is likely damaged, question. Is there any light at the end. What if I stuck it in drove it till it died would my engine suffer damage. will a pump cauz a shaft to be THAT out of kilter? could it be fix the seal and pump and everthing be happy ever after? Is it legal to ride a horse on the highway still.. if so where can I get a cheap one?