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I am looking at a 93 2wd CC dually for 5k. It has 338,000 km and the following work done:
7.3L Int diesel w/ BANKS SIDEWINDER turbo kit,
O/D automatic transmission w/ banks transcommand shift control module,
Rear wheel drive dually (2WD - not 4x4)
fully loaded,
"centurion" front split bench seat with flip down console,
2tone black/gray with gray cloth int,
dual tanks (rear one brand new),
rear sliding window,
boost and pyro (exhaust temp) gauges on pillar,
elec trailer brake controller,
alpine cd with great speakers,
aux fog lights up front and flood lights out back,
vent visors on all 4 doors,
straight pipe exhaust,
canopy with running lights,
chrome front grille guard,
aircare exempt,
etc....
NEW WITHIN LAST 5-15K: (in order to most recent)
NEW polished alcoa wheels and new tires
2 new batteries,
new serpentine belt and tensioner,
new brake booster and vacuum pump
new glow plugs and solenoid,
new starter
new ball joints and front brakes,
recent engine and trans oil change,
new rear fuel tank (BNIB, but yet to be installed)
Theyre good engines, as long as everything seems sound after a test drive. Find out what you can about the maintenance history. If pump and injectors havent been changed you could replace, or even a mild upgrade, have the turbo kitted and should have a real strong dependable runner.
A note on the E40D auto trans. You may wish to look into changing the torque converter, they are a wear item and are known to come apart around the 200k mark when towing/ hauling alot. Would be an ideal time to look at a stronger unit as well if youre looking to tow/haul with it. Other than that, just for some comparative pricing. The banks sidewinder with trans-command is close to $3000 just by itself. That, with all the recent maintenance would make it a worthwhile investment. I assume the PO wouldnt put so much time in effort into a vehicle that is on its last legs.
How much rust does it have? I got my rustfree '92 CC dually with Banks Sidewinder for $2500. Its not a Centurion but it gets the job done....How much is the seller asking?
'edit'..nvm, i just reread the original post....5k is more than what i would pay for it...it has higher mileage and how well it was maintained is always a question. I would try to talk the guy down to 4K.
I seem to be having bad luck in purchasing. I was looking at this one and another 97. The seller got cold feet last night and pulled his ad.
The owner of the 93 truck claims that it is in perfect condition and maintained. From the photos I have seen it looks ok but I would rather see it upclose before saying how good it is.
What kind of mileage should I expect from this truck? How hard would it be to put my 4x4 running gear from my 97 dually 5spd under it?
How hard would it be to put my 4x4 running gear from my 97 dually 5spd under it?
if that's all good,then why buy a whole new truck? just buy yourself a new cab/bed for your '97 if shes rusted out.
i wouldn't pay 5k for a 2wd personally,especially with a quarter million miles.
remember if you need a 4wd dually,but can't find a cab and chassis in decent shape for the right price,it's always cheaper,faster,easier to start with a 4wd srw pickup and convert to dually.everything just bolts up directly in an afternoon.
there was recently a conversion on ebay that didn't get the 5k starting bid! and it was a crew cab to boot: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/?cmd=...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
now that would be worth 5k all easy imho.
With winter grade fuel with my '92 CC dually and sidewinder turbo and E4OD with 215, 000(pretty much the same truck), i get about around 15-16 combined mileage. I haven't had summer fuel in it yet but i imagine it'll be a little better.
Swapping from a '92 to a '97 would be a wiring nightmare I think, as you are talking about going from an auto IDI, to a manual PowerStroke. Tranny wiring would be totally different, engine wiring also totally different. All you would end up doing is swapping sheet metal to make it easiest, by re-using the wiring and so on from the power train. If you are going that far, you could grab any decent metal and strip it, then use it, certainly no need for a running powertrain underneath it.
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