Yes, I did a code scan at the local Auto Zone with their scanner, no codes found. So, your saying that if it was a GP electrical issue it should kick on the CEL.

 

If you had a GP issue you would at LEAST have a code and from what I understand a GP problem will light the CEL. I'm thinking you have a FICM problem, especially if you have a stock FICM putting out 53-55V. That just ain't normal. A dealer would face a MAJOR fine for altering something that's considered an emission component. They just don't do it.

 

Thanks for your advice. I think I will send it out to ED. Sounds like he is the guy to use. Will I have to bring it to the dealer to reflash after Ed does his thing to it?

 

From what I understand you will not need to reflash it.

 

OK. I went out and purchased an induction amp meter. Needed a new multimeter anyway. I decided to test the GPCM for the heck of it before I sent out the FICM for repair (which it may need soon anyway). Both sides of the GPCM only read .10 amps with koeo. I pulled the plugs and check the voltage on the feed wire (black/red) and they both are 12+. Does this confirm that it is not working. Just for the heck of it I check the amps pulling out of the passenger side battery and it pulls 100+ amps when I first cycle the key, then drops off. One other piece, the engine is cold and its about 42F out. Is that cold enough to kick on the GP's?

 

[quote=TreesnFords;11350992]OK. I went out and purchased an induction amp meter. Needed a new multimeter anyway. I decided to test the GPCM for the heck of it before I sent out the FICM for repair (which it may need soon anyway).

Where would a body send an FICM for repair?

Glad you're posting your problems, I'm experiencing the exact same thing here in Chicago(low 30's *F) 03 F350 6.0.
FTE is an awesome site, lot's of info, good investment. I'm looking forward to your resolution. If I find the time to test and repair FICM, I'll post it immediately

 

Sorry to hear your problems, nice to have someone else in the boat as it sinks though...LOL
If I were to send my FICM out, based on all the threads on FTE, I would send to Ed. You can check out his site. FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair.
I will say that I found some new results today after I realized I was testing the wrong conections. I am getting 11.8-12v to both flat 4wire glow plug conectors (just under the valve cover on the front of the motor). The wires going to the GP's are ohming between 1.6 - 0.7.

 

Got a chance to test my FICM voltage today and found 48v KOEO and it dropped to 19.2 while cranking I pulled it out and will probably send it somewhere for repair. I'm not much on soldering and don't want to mess it up worse than it already is.

 

Send it to FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair. As close as he is to you, you should have it back in short order healthier than it's ever been. Ed is a great guy to deal with.

 

Thanks for the link, I'm printing the form and sending the FICM this morning.

 

Thanks very much for the business! We'll look forward to getting your FICM in and taken care of!

FWIW, btw, I completely concur with npccpartsman - 53-55 volts means someone has been in there and made some serious modifications on the OP's module.

Ed
Ed@ficmrepair.com

 

Thanks to everyone who posted. The FICMrepair.com was definitely the right call. It took about 1 week after I sent FICM to them before I got it back but it sure beats the alternative(not running or worse, engine failure alongside the road somewhere, towing/ repair costs alone would have amounted to well over a grand!)
I chose the 2year warranty deal where everything in the FICM is replaced if they even think it's not 100%. (1 never realizes how critical this FICM is to proper operation) All of the advice about battery voltage is critical too. Knowing what your batteries go through on start up alone and how this can affect the health of your FICM is something most people never think about.
Removing and re-installing the FICM is not that difficult. I was fortunate enough to have a friend available to help with the re-installation(I took it out on my own) The biggest pain is the puke jug that get's in the way.
I found that an empty cat litter bucket served me well, by setting it on the ground next to drivers side wheel I was about at the perfect height to remove the FICM.
Re-install was a little more difficult. For this I used a 6' ladder in front of the drivers side headlight, I put some blankets on the engine and commenced to laying on the engine with my feet supported on the ladder(horizontally). I had everything laid out on a table next to truck and my buddy was able to hand me bolts/nuts and tools as I needed them as well as holding the overflow jug out of the way allowing me to replace the FICM properly in less than 20 minutes.
I found the 2 bolts that secure the rear of the FICM were missing(Previous Owner *****ed up) They were 5/16 18 thread about 1 1/2" long. I used 7-8-10 & 13mm sockets and ratcheting gear wrenches and channel locks(to remove hose clamp). Outside Air Temp 28*F, Battery voltage was 12.8 prior to start up, KOEO it dropped to 11.5 as injectors cycled and GP's warmed up, I waited about 45 seconds and voltage began to increase to 11.7, turned the key and got a start up in less than 2 seconds! Voltage remained below 12 for about 45 more seconds and then increased to 14.1(I'm assuming the GP's shut off) This after the truck had sat idle for 2 weeks. I installed a ScanGaugeII yesterday and will attempt to learn more about it and all of the parameters it monitors as this should help to recognize issues before they become BIG ISSUES.It reminds me of being in the Navy, in the Engine Room, we monitored everything right down to the temperatures of every bearing, hourly on some but usually every minute on others and I tell ya, it makes a huge difference, knowing and seeing what's happening inside an engine while you're operating it instead of waiting for an idiot light on a dash board or, worse, a breakdown along the road. Thanks again to everyone involved in FTE and it's sponsors/supporters.