cold start problem
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
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From: Connecticut
cold start problem
I have a 2004 550 that is having trouble starting when between 20-35 degrees. I have a block heater and it works. I am not sure if there is a fuse under the dash to check. I did not see one for "glow plugs". I pulled the connector off one glow plug on the passenger side and checked for power with my test light and found no power on any of the 4 terminals (on that one connector) within 30 seconds of having the key on. Should I check the rest of the connectors or start testing at the control module?
Should all 4 terminals on each connector have power?
Thanks
Should all 4 terminals on each connector have power?
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Scan it for codes
If you really do have a GP problem it will turn On the CEL being that its emission system relaited and you will get a code/s for it
other than that check the FICM Voltage in the morning when you would have the cold start issues
try this
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
If you really do have a GP problem it will turn On the CEL being that its emission system relaited and you will get a code/s for it
other than that check the FICM Voltage in the morning when you would have the cold start issues
try this
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 6
From: Alberta
These engines don't seem to have the glow plug controller problems of the older motors. If glow plugs are working the volt meter in the dash seems to show a lower voltage till they are turned off.
I miss the old days when you jammed a switch down with your thumb till the indicator on the dash glowed red.
I miss the old days when you jammed a switch down with your thumb till the indicator on the dash glowed red.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
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From: Connecticut
Thanks for the tips guys! I guess my truck is a bit newer, its the 7 screw unit. If I tested the correct screw, one in fourth row, farthest to the left or closest to the drivers side, it shows only 11.5 ish volts KOEO. I was expecting it to be much higher. When I had someone cyle the key it did not change much. It was a bit warmer today so she wanted to start, but before it did she went down to around 10.5 volts. What would not be allowing the unit to get juice from both batteries? Seems like its only getting feed from one. Or is it just the FICM is just that bad?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I agree with this ^^^^^^^^^^^^
It sounds to me that your testing the wrong screw on the FICM
you have 4 pids the PCM watches for on the FICM
FICM MP=FICM MAIN POWER should be 48V
FICM VP= FICM VEHICLE POWER should be B+ Voltage
FICM LP= FICM Lodgic POWER should be B+ Voltage
FICM Sync= FICM syncs with CMP/CKP sensors and the PCM to know when to fire Each injector
But Im pretty shure you have the wrong screww your getting Vehicle power or Lodgic power you need to see MAIN Power
Are you using the link I posted in the last reply
1 more time how do you know the GPs are not working
It sounds to me that your testing the wrong screw on the FICM
you have 4 pids the PCM watches for on the FICM
FICM MP=FICM MAIN POWER should be 48V
FICM VP= FICM VEHICLE POWER should be B+ Voltage
FICM LP= FICM Lodgic POWER should be B+ Voltage
FICM Sync= FICM syncs with CMP/CKP sensors and the PCM to know when to fire Each injector
But Im pretty shure you have the wrong screww your getting Vehicle power or Lodgic power you need to see MAIN Power
Are you using the link I posted in the last reply
1 more time how do you know the GPs are not working
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Connecticut
Thanks for your patience. I think the GPs not working because the truck was really struggling to start when it started to get cold out. After we got down to below 20 degrees it would not start even when plugged in for a few hours. I never had a CEL. I did not recieve any codes when I checked either.
When I checked today I tested the screw closest to the driver side front fender, in the row that has 4 screws. For the heck of it I also tested the one on the opposite side of that row (your left, my left thought) and it read a 1. on the meter. So, I thought that was the wrong screw. I will try again in the morning. Thanks again...
When I checked today I tested the screw closest to the driver side front fender, in the row that has 4 screws. For the heck of it I also tested the one on the opposite side of that row (your left, my left thought) and it read a 1. on the meter. So, I thought that was the wrong screw. I will try again in the morning. Thanks again...
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Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Ok, now that I feel like an idiot. Tested the correct screw and got 55 volts koeo. While cranking, it dropped down to 53 or so and then started (it warmed up to 40's here today).
So that means the FICM is good?
So that means the FICM is good?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Here's a picture of what the 7 screw FICM pinouts are. If you're getting 55 volts then your FICM has been seriously altered by someone. Also remember that just because your voltage checks good doesn't mean that your FICM is good. It can have other issues in the RAM/ROM
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
Knowing who I bought the truck from, I doubt it was altered by anyone, unless it was a dealer. He did not know which end of the screwdriver to hold and brought it to the dealer for everything. It looks like it is original do to the date on the unit. If it was previously reflashed would that up the voltage to that 55 range?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Knowing who I bought the truck from, I doubt it was altered by anyone, unless it was a dealer. He did not know which end of the screwdriver to hold and brought it to the dealer for everything. It looks like it is original do to the date on the unit. If it was previously reflashed would that up the voltage to that 55 range?
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,368
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
I see no mention of code scanning the truck or maybe I missed it? Have you done so?