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So every now and then my truck decides to not start. It just turns over and over. I wait for "WTS" light goes off, no CEL but it just spins and spins. After about 3 or 4 seconds of not starting, I recycle the key and it sputters to life.
any opinions? No tuner, chip, or any other computer mods.
First off, the WTS light has nothing to do with the glow plugs staying on. The GPs will stay on for 2 mins after you turn the key on when cold. Try waiting for about 1 1/2 mins after you turn the key on before trying to start the engine. Let us know if that helps. If not we can go further into this.
I would say that that was the reason, but it was about 50 degrees when I just tried it. Would the glow plugs really inhibit it from starting at 50*? Also I just started it yesterday at about 28 degrees in the morning no problem same routine. Its a very sporadic occurrence but it seems like its just getting no fire signal from the PCM or something. Would the CPS be a cause? To the best of my knowledge its the original.
Check all be battery connections and the grounds. Have you tested the batts while cranking to make sure you are getting at least 10.5 volts? If you have an AE you could check the the ICP while cranking to be sure the HPOP is putting the right psi to start the engine. You could change the CPS if you have a spare handy. Make sure the oil in the HPOP is close to being full. These are some of the things that will cause a no start.
Go to walmart and get the Power service white, arctic service. That should help. Deisel fuel is cheap junk. JMOP. put alot off it in more than it call's for.
Last edited by jwhitetail; Jan 19, 2012 at 12:49 PM.
Reason: add
GP's can keep it from firing at 50... with mine, 60* and below I could pretty much forget it. Check your GPR... sounds like it's being sporadic. I had my truck do that once this winter, but it hasn't done it since. I cranked after the WTS light went out and it just turned. Cut the key off, then back on, waited for the WTS light to go out, hit the key, it fired off.
John, thats exactly what mine did, I'll be sure to check the GPs and GPR. Ill try and have some cranking data gathered, but being so sporadic I don't know if I will be able to catch it.
What I'm thinking about doing is rigging up a GP LED so that next time it screws up, I can tell whether or not the gpr kicked in or not. Might be worth doing for you...
In the mean time, might could just run an ugle nakes LED up into the cab... it takes a 470K or 560K (somewhere around 560... I can't remember) resistor with the LED to run off a 14v.
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