Big Paint Problem, Wrong Hardener With Clear...
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 132
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From: Wake Forest
Big Paint Problem, Wrong Hardener With Clear...
I painted a truck with finish 1 740 clear and used hardener for 720, Paint rep said it will never dry fully. As of now 1 month later you can still stick your nail into it and it will heal in about 20 min. So long story short I did not read the label on the clear and just went with what the guy behind the counter said/gave me. They know they messed up ( as did I by not reading every thing before hand, lesson learned) and are giving me all the supplies to fix the problem. The question I have is, How do I get the old stuff off? Half the truck is fiberglass.
So far I have used:
80grit- gums up
36grit - gums up but works faster, stripped door in half an hour this stuff if tough
Stripper - 1 GALLON on hood still has paint on it....
Not sure what to do on fiberglass and plastic trim
Any Ideas welcome
So far I have used:
80grit- gums up
36grit - gums up but works faster, stripped door in half an hour this stuff if tough
Stripper - 1 GALLON on hood still has paint on it....
Not sure what to do on fiberglass and plastic trim
Any Ideas welcome
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,881
Likes: 1
From: North of Tulsa, Oklahoma
oh wow, that is a big problem. sorry to hear about it. I'd steer clear of the liquid stripper. That will make a big mess and you'll have to do lots of washing and surface cleaning prep to make sure you got all the stripper off. To get the gummy paint off i'd try these two first:
1) Use a drill, face shield, long sleeve and neck protection, and one of those paint stripping pads that you can see thru. They look like black firm brillo pads and have the drill arbor installed in them. I would think you could use it until it gums up, then rinse it in a tub of liquid like MEK or laquer thinner?
2) Use a good metal putty knife and heat gun or hair blow dryer. Go along a few inches at a time with the heat gun to make the base paint just as pliable as the top coats, then use the putty knife to scrap it off. Wipe the knife on the trash can edge to drop the paint scrappings. And repeat.
1) Use a drill, face shield, long sleeve and neck protection, and one of those paint stripping pads that you can see thru. They look like black firm brillo pads and have the drill arbor installed in them. I would think you could use it until it gums up, then rinse it in a tub of liquid like MEK or laquer thinner?
2) Use a good metal putty knife and heat gun or hair blow dryer. Go along a few inches at a time with the heat gun to make the base paint just as pliable as the top coats, then use the putty knife to scrap it off. Wipe the knife on the trash can edge to drop the paint scrappings. And repeat.
Junior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 0
Wow, that really sucks, and there is no easy way to work through it now. Is there a primer that uses the hardner that you should have used for the clear. If so, on a small area hit it with 80 grit and spray some primer that is a little over catalized and see if it will help your clear dry. It might be worth a shot. Good luck
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 132
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From: Wake Forest
Thanks guys. So here is what I'm doing now, Scotch-Brite Roloc discs in 3 and 6 inch sizes one foe die grinder and other for big grinder. Works nicely but I did use a few of them but that's okay since they are free... as for the fiber glass I shot a test panel that was sanded with 80 then 180 with Epoxy. Seems like its nice and dry with no soft parts.
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