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You can buy satin clear in spray bombs from any autobody supply store. Thats what I use alot when clearing door jambs, interior deck lids stuff like that. As for scuffing over your old paint, its gonna depend on a few things. I will tell you what to do if the paint is in decent shape. Get some either purple or green scotch pads from the body supply store and use them. if you want to use sand paper, then with repainting use 400 to 600 grit. Then use an adhesion promoter like bull dog to help the new paint adhere to the old paint.
I actually found some indoor/outdoor satin clear enamel at Lowe's, not sure how that would hold up.
Deal is, I'd like to do a quickie "satin" paint job on my car.
The clearcoat is peeling big time on the roof, hood and trunk lid. It's all but gone off the roof, peeling really bad off the trunk lid and starting to get there on the hood. The paint (and clearcoat) on the sides of the car seems to be fine.
I'd like to somehow sand or scuff off the offending peeling clearcoat (it comes off relatively easily anyway) touch up the paint if necessary, and apply the satin clear.
I just don't know how well I'd be able to get that clearcoat off.
Could I use a 1/4 sheet orbital sander and coarse paper to remove the peeling clearcoat or should I use something else?
No matter what you are going to be removing color coat if you try to sand off the clear. If you really want to try and sand, you want about a 600 grit. But at this point I'm gonna say you need a complete paint job. I have repainted to many chebbie and Fords that had peeling clear coat. On alot, I was able to use a razor blade and peel the clear off for the most part. But one you start sanding, you wind up taking the color off as well. Ford and GM both had issues on early 90's vehicles (Ford learned quick) If you were original owner back in the 90's, Ford would pay to have your truck repainted.
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