Please Help! U Joints
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Delaware
Please Help! U Joints
Guys, I'm in a pinch.
I've undertaken changing out the universal joints (2) on the 1 piece rear driveshaft of a 2004 F150 4WD. The build date is actually 08 03. Here's the problem: They were both squeaking really bad and evidently needed changing. These u joints are actually held in to the yoke by 8 spots where the metal yoke has been peened over, NO RETAINER CLIPS. Pressing the out the old fashioned way (two sockets, one hammer) did nothing. Went to the Ford Dealership and spoke to the mechanics, they showed me the press they used to do them. Went to AutoZone and rented the same press. Still nothing!! I can get the one endcup pressed all the way out of the ear, but the body of the u joint itself hits the other ear, preventing the other cup from pressing far enough out to come free. It barely come far enough to grab with pliers, let alone a vise. This is your area, not mine. This guy really needs his truck to keep his job, so anything you can advise I'd appreciate.
I've undertaken changing out the universal joints (2) on the 1 piece rear driveshaft of a 2004 F150 4WD. The build date is actually 08 03. Here's the problem: They were both squeaking really bad and evidently needed changing. These u joints are actually held in to the yoke by 8 spots where the metal yoke has been peened over, NO RETAINER CLIPS. Pressing the out the old fashioned way (two sockets, one hammer) did nothing. Went to the Ford Dealership and spoke to the mechanics, they showed me the press they used to do them. Went to AutoZone and rented the same press. Still nothing!! I can get the one endcup pressed all the way out of the ear, but the body of the u joint itself hits the other ear, preventing the other cup from pressing far enough out to come free. It barely come far enough to grab with pliers, let alone a vise. This is your area, not mine. This guy really needs his truck to keep his job, so anything you can advise I'd appreciate.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Delaware
U Joints
I'm still trying to figure out how to post pics. I know the clips mentioned, there are none. Seriously, the only thing keeping these caps in are the 8 peens on each one. That and the pressed fit, of course. The kit from Advanced Auto ($93) comes with a cutter for clipping these peens off, but the press pushes right past them like nothing. Thanks.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Delaware
Pics, I think
As you can see, just the 8 peens hold the caps. This is also literally as far as the u joints can be pressed one side or another.
Last edited by glruff; Jan 17, 2012 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Picture spacing
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 21
From: Caracas, Venezuela
I see you remove the cap from one of the axis, why don't you try the same with the other axis? it could work giving you more room to try and take that u-joint out. The picture looks great, well done.
Watching it closely, i bet you could try pressing it by pushing from the cap-less side until you're able to take both caps of the same axis, then repeat the same with the other axis and the u-joint should come out.
Watching it closely, i bet you could try pressing it by pushing from the cap-less side until you're able to take both caps of the same axis, then repeat the same with the other axis and the u-joint should come out.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Delaware
I've tried. The u joint body doesn't allow the cap to come off. The caps are both still on in those pics. I can't get the u joint to angle enough to get the free cap off the end. If it came off, then I'd be able to get the u joint done, but there isn't enough clearance.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
Junkman if it takes me more than five minutes with a press I stop and grab the torch and cut the cross so it falls out then you can press the caps to the middle. The cut can be made with a thin cut wheel and a grinder but it takes longer. Be sure not to bend the ears of the driveline closer together or you will have trouble putting in the new ujoint.
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Delaware
Thanks for the help. We're using the Rent-a-tool press from Advanced with no luck. I can cut the joint, but I was looking for solid removal. I mean, it was pressed in somehow. Thanks guys.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
why are you sentimentally attached or something? Cut it and move on to the next job
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 265
Likes: 12
just because something was pressed in does not mean that it can be pressed out.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 377
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From: Henderson, KY
They aren't pressed. They are turned in. There is a key to turn them out. Been down this route, assuming you have a 2004 new body style and not a heritage edition, and if it is a 4WD and FX4 it has U-Joints that cost 95 dollars a piece, and they are turned in not PRESSED.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,836
Likes: 2,612
From: The Shenandoah Valley
Those u-joint bearing caps are retained by the "staking" you see.
You can spend $700 for new driveshaft,
... or get the U-joint kit from Ford (or aftermarket maybe?) to service those with
which includes a cutter to cut the stakes out and new U-joint which uses clips,
... or you can look for a same length drive shaft from simular but newer 07-08 F150
which uses clips,
... or you can find one of many shops that will take your yoke and make a new drive
shaft which uses serviceable U-joints with clips.
It was a dumb idea.
You can spend $700 for new driveshaft,
... or get the U-joint kit from Ford (or aftermarket maybe?) to service those with
which includes a cutter to cut the stakes out and new U-joint which uses clips,
... or you can look for a same length drive shaft from simular but newer 07-08 F150
which uses clips,
... or you can find one of many shops that will take your yoke and make a new drive
shaft which uses serviceable U-joints with clips.
It was a dumb idea.
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