I'm tired of messing with the kickdown and the colum isn't very convenient to shift all the time. What about a floor shifter? It's a 1979 F250 4x4. I think I could put a lokar or something on the other side of the t-case stick and still reach it fine. Anyone done it to their 4x4? I see some (like lokar) that mount to the trans and that doesn't actually seem possible because the 4x4 linkage is in the way. I looked at a mega truck shifter but the base kinda looks large to squeeze in there.. Dunno..



Maybe one like the hurst indy 3 speed HUU-5010016

Greg

 

What are you talking about?

Like a floor shifter for your transmission?

 

Yeah... Like the p/n I put in there, I thought I made the question pretty clear.... I don't mean to be rude but I did say tired of messing with the kickdown thinking of going with a floor shifter because manually shifting the colum sucks.. I'm looking for someone with some insight, perhaps that has done it before (they'd know what I meant).

Switching from a colum to a floor shifter. I have a t-case stick sorta in the way. Was wondering if anyone has done it and how it worked out.



Thanks

 

Ok, I gotcha.

I think it would consist of cutting out part of the floorboard on the transmission hump and running the transmission linkages that the company will supply to you.


Maybe someone will come in and help you.

 

B&M SLAM! 3 speed floor shifter with reverse lock-out and slap shift. I don't know if you're into that sort of shifter, but I personally would own one if I ever wanted another automatic (which I currently despise, even the c6).

they're a universal shifter with a cable that attaches to the existing linkage on the side of the transmission. drill a few holes for the shifter to mount and a hole for the cable, hook everything up, and you're done!

 

My .02 cents:

I think you have a pressure problem in your transmission. The lockdown should only be a factor a wide open throttle. If I were you I would a pressure test, otherwise your liable to tear transmission up from pressure (or lack thereof.) c6s are very particular on this matter.

But i would get something like a b and m mega shifter or other slapstick if I was dead set on shifting it manually... Full manual valve body might solve/mask the low pressure problem if there is one.

 

I too dislike automatics (even the C6). I just overhauled this one. My clutch clearances where ****, my end play was a little towards the large side but still within specs. I air tested the drums, I was afraid I could of nicked a lip seal on the forward drum. Ended up great, I haven't done a pressure test yet using the ports while its running though.

Used the Broader "500HP" Overhaul kit because it was the most complete. I added a new N code servo (That's original) and used the original A code servo lever too. I also bought a rebuilt front pump.

The 2-3 shift is nice and firm, the 1-2 isn't too great though. I've messed with the band ALOT and I'm pretty sure that isn't the problem. I went 1.5 turns in on the modulator and that seemed to change things for the better. The hose going to the modulator seems loose, I'm gonna change that next.

Used a SK6 truck shift kit. Installed everything needed, just didn't drill the hole in the partition in the valve body for the torque converter. The extra thing I did do is install a little black spring under the cutback valve (as told by broader's "Work Truck" guide).

The kickdown bolt isn't long enough. In order for it to kickdown I have to put the throttle to the floor.. Its an old truck and I don't like to drive it like that. I'm going to buy a longer bolt to get some more adjustment out of it. It's around zero degrees outside without the slight windchill from the 6-8 mph breeze so I havn't gotten to it. It seems to kickdown quite well (when it does) though..


One darned thing that's been in the back of my mind though is... I didn't put a gasket on the trans filter... The DVD that I watched said it isn't needed, though online I read that without a filter the pump doesn't wanna suck causing low line pressure... Didn't notice until AFTER the darned thing was installed. Is the DVD correct? Has anyone left out the gasket?



Greg

 

The C6 is a great automatic, they just need a little initial pampering.

Was this your first transmission to rebuild? Tell us more about the actual shifting problem.

Your kickdown lever is fairly trivial. I have a one truck that doesn't even have one and the transmission shifts great (and downshifts great) with only the vacuum modulator sensing load.

So what I am trying to say is this, if your truck is shifting through the gears too fast (as in shift timing), or your shifts are mushy. Then the transmission has other troubles that manually shifting will only hide. Trust me I have been there and done the whole bad shoe productions thing, which I assume is the dvd you used.

There are so many things that make a tranny lose pressure (and the filter gasket isn't one of them) that makes it impossible to diagnose over a limited internet conversation. Sounds like you know the about the inner workings of your tranny so run a pressure test (while driving is best. You'll need a test hose for this maybe a tranny shop can help you here.) And I bet you can isolate the issue.

This was my rebuilt front pump after only 6 months. The pump I ordered came with the stator support which as you can see is toast.



So it can always be the new part.

 

I live in Ketchikan Alaska. Closest transmission shop is in seattle, they weren't any help at all (I wanted to have one of the shops fix it for me). Also Ketchikan is sorta one big hill, almost like san francisco.. I need the kickdown. The kickdown is the reason that I wanted to go with a floor shifter.

I used badshoe DVD and then there's one on ebay I watched as well. Did the actuall rebuild using haynes ford auto overhaul manual. This was my first trans rebuild. I researched for about a year though..


1-2 shift happens soft and about 15mph. 2-3 shift is nice and firm and happens at 30-35 depending on how much gas you give it. Seems like just the 1-2 is a problem. It does shift pretty nice up and down the gears, just not the 1-2 shift..

I went 1.5 turns in on my black modulator and it did help a bit, could prob go more..

It looked like the pressures for the tester weren't too high. Could I just make one with some high temp/pressure hose and a barb?

I do have a N code servo with a A code lever.. Thought about going with the R code servo because the N is pretty small...

Broader said to air check my servo... How do I do that? I air checked the drums while on the pump but not the servo...


Greg

 

Jesus, you are up there with the Eskimos. Glad you don't live in Nome, cause you wouldn't be able to drive your truck for awhile.

 

I have a cousin that lives in ketchikan,always wanted to go visit but just have not had the time.

 

You could always make a longer pin if you run out of adjustment.

I think that would work.

That would help

I would run pressure tests first, b/c that easier. But to check the servo you have to pull of the valvebody, there is a port that feeds pressure to the servo, and one that releases the servo. (Doesn't sound like you have a problem with the release since your 2-3 is OK).

Got this from another forum:

Here's how to locate the ports.
Looking up from the bottom on the dipstick tube side, VB removed:
Large square opening nearest the dipstick is pump inlet.
Then to the left of it in a direct line towards the dipstick is a threaded hole.
Then to the left of that threaded hole is a small machined hole -- that is the servo release passage.
Just below the threaded hole is a "bent" longer passage -- that is the servo apply. You have to cover up the passage to test. A big fat thumb may work.

To continue air testing, go back to the pump inlet...
Just to the right is REV-HIGH clutch
Next to the right is FWD clutch
Next is converter charge (don't do anything here)

Now drop down to the rear of the tranny and you'll see a threaded hole, open hole, open hole, open hole, threaded hole from side to side.
Starting at the modulator side the first open hole is GOV Pressure OUT
then GOV CTRL Pressure
then, this is what you want, is REV-LOW clutch, test this port for leaks.





A properly set up C6 really doesn't even need one of these. (At least in my redneck experience). The vacuum modulator does a great job of sensing engine strain when everything is working right.

The Mississippi Delta is Flat, but we have hills up here in northeast MS. So I know how handy it is for a c6 to downshift properly.

Maybe I have yielded something useful.

 

Thanks,
It downshifts alright, when you make a turn from 30 to about 20 sometimes it doesn't go into 2nd. I do drive like a wimp though...


Gonna rig up my compression tester to run my line test. Manual says not to do it more than 2 mins or 20 secs in each gear.. Why is that?


Greg

 

I don't really know... I don't see how it could hurt testing longer.