So sad, got stranded today
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,521
Likes: 16
From: Lost
Ok, so using the info I got from you guys today, I've determined that my fender solenoid is wired incorrectly for this starter.
Notice that the red wire on the top post, and the heavy gauge black wire both go to the starter. I'll have to move the black wire to the battery post when I go get new cables today. Not saying this was my problem, but it was a PO issue all the same. Fix one thing at a time, right?
Notice that the red wire on the top post, and the heavy gauge black wire both go to the starter. I'll have to move the black wire to the battery post when I go get new cables today. Not saying this was my problem, but it was a PO issue all the same. Fix one thing at a time, right?
Yes, the fender mounted unit is still carrying the load of the starter, but the heavy battery cable only has juice when the starter is engaged. Might cause the fender solenoid to need replaced a bit more often, but if the starter cable happens to ground itself to the engine or frame, it won't burn up the entire wiring system.......
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
The instructions that came with my starter were quite implicit not to tie the feed and trigger wires together.
(maybe back feeding is an issue?)
I ran my starter cable directly to the battery, figuring there was one less connection.
Not to mention a lack of room on the hot stud of the fender relay.
I just put wire loom on the cable like it came from the factory to avoid chafing.
(maybe back feeding is an issue?)
I ran my starter cable directly to the battery, figuring there was one less connection.
Not to mention a lack of room on the hot stud of the fender relay.
I just put wire loom on the cable like it came from the factory to avoid chafing.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
The instructions that came with my starter were quite implicit not to tie the feed and trigger wires together.
I ran my starter cable directly to the battery, figuring there was one less connection.
Not to mention a lack of room on the hot stud of the fender relay.
(maybe back feeding is an issue?)
I just put wire loom on the cable like it came from the factory to avoid chafing.
I ran my starter cable directly to the battery, figuring there was one less connection.
Not to mention a lack of room on the hot stud of the fender relay.
(maybe back feeding is an issue?)
I just put wire loom on the cable like it came from the factory to avoid chafing.
Yea, I googled this wiring issue, and the most common way to wire this is to connect the heavy gauge wire directly to the battery post. I just got back from NAPA with my new cables...on my way out to rewire.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
Fixed the truck.
Now I need to run full tilt into the nearest oak tree, face first.
I swear I did my wiggle tests before I started buying parts. Turns out that the original issue was the eyelet end of the positive cable at the solenoid. The eyelet was crimped on, but not soldered. I guess you know the story from there....
So what I ended up with is a new starter, and new neg and pos SOLDERED cables. I also correctly wired the starter. I moved the large gauge cable to the new positive cable end at the battery post. As a side note, I LOVE that new starter! The old one rattled and buzzed, but this one is quiet and can propel the truck 35mph on it's own.
New wiring:
Now I need to run full tilt into the nearest oak tree, face first.
I swear I did my wiggle tests before I started buying parts. Turns out that the original issue was the eyelet end of the positive cable at the solenoid. The eyelet was crimped on, but not soldered. I guess you know the story from there....
So what I ended up with is a new starter, and new neg and pos SOLDERED cables. I also correctly wired the starter. I moved the large gauge cable to the new positive cable end at the battery post. As a side note, I LOVE that new starter! The old one rattled and buzzed, but this one is quiet and can propel the truck 35mph on it's own.
New wiring:
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Excellent! 
Why hit your head???
Glad you got rid of those worthless clamp on battery cable ends.
Nothing but trouble.
I had to change them out in my wife's Rodeo when the cold weather began.
Her starter cable is like 8' long and you have to disassemble the starter to get at the lug on that end.
Hopefully you will see years of good service from both the starter and the fender mounted solenoid now.
Why hit your head???
Glad you got rid of those worthless clamp on battery cable ends.
Nothing but trouble.
I had to change them out in my wife's Rodeo when the cold weather began.
Her starter cable is like 8' long and you have to disassemble the starter to get at the lug on that end.
Hopefully you will see years of good service from both the starter and the fender mounted solenoid now.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
Another side note.
It seems, and it may just be wishful thinking, that the whole lighting system is much brighter. Interior, dash, and headlights really do seem to be much more brilliant...like I'm lit up like a Christmas tree.
Just me, or is that possible? Battery always seemed to have a great charge. If my lights are any indication, then I've had power problems for some time.
??
It seems, and it may just be wishful thinking, that the whole lighting system is much brighter. Interior, dash, and headlights really do seem to be much more brilliant...like I'm lit up like a Christmas tree.
Just me, or is that possible? Battery always seemed to have a great charge. If my lights are any indication, then I've had power problems for some time.
??
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Not wishful thinking.
You had a crappy connection at both ends of your + cable.
Now everything is bright and tight.
I would suggest some Noalox on the ends of all the new cables though, to keep water and corrosion at bay in the long term.
You had a crappy connection at both ends of your + cable.
Now everything is bright and tight.
I would suggest some Noalox on the ends of all the new cables though, to keep water and corrosion at bay in the long term.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
The only thing those bolt on battery cable ends are good for is emergencies. It's good to have one if you are out in the field and need to repair the wire.
Other than that they are dreadful for corrosion problems and resistance issues.
I'd never use them for a permanent fix, too many problems...
Other than that they are dreadful for corrosion problems and resistance issues.
I'd never use them for a permanent fix, too many problems...
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Like I was saying the bolt on terminals are problems waiting to happen. When you compare the price of a clamp on terminal vs a new factory made cable it doesnt make sense to use the clamp ons. The clamps are like $2.99 and the new cable set you back a whoppin $7.00. Good deal the problems are over for now.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 2
From: Casa Grande
IDK, I've used them a lot mostly on Jeeps or off-road vehicles. When I have upgraded the cables to heavier cable I would use the soldier on eyes and then bolt it to the clamps. Never had any more problems that way than with the factory cable plug heavier cables.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I like a military lug if I am going to go that route...
RJM has copper -solder on- battery clamps that come with the solder pellet, insulating boot and color coded shrink tubing.
Expensive compared to a premade cable, but really the best way to go if you need something custom.
RJM Injection Tech — Battery Cable Parts
RJM has copper -solder on- battery clamps that come with the solder pellet, insulating boot and color coded shrink tubing.
Expensive compared to a premade cable, but really the best way to go if you need something custom.
RJM Injection Tech — Battery Cable Parts
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,509
Likes: 1
From: Wagener, SC
RJM has copper -solder on- battery clamps that come with the solder pellet, insulating boot and color coded shrink tubing.
Expensive compared to a premade cable, but really the best way to go if you need something custom.
RJM Injection Tech — Battery Cable Parts
Expensive compared to a premade cable, but really the best way to go if you need something custom.
RJM Injection Tech — Battery Cable Parts
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