Hi all,

My wife's 2004 Explorer Limited 4.6L (130,000 miles) is in the parking lot of a store right now because it won't start. She says it started a little slow (2-3 seconds) at the stop before, but it started, so she drove it to the next store. When she got out of that one it wouldn't start at all.

Once I got there I tried the key and got nothing, not even a click. All the interior electronics work, the info center in the dash says "Charging System OK" and the battery gauge reads fine. The battery cables are corroded, a problem it's always had, but it's apparently making a good connection.

I'm thinking either fuse/relay or starter at this point but I thought i'd check with you guys. Ever since I borrowed a Ford van from a friend i've doubted my diagnosis skills on the newer vehicles since most of my knowledge is pre-2000. The van ran fine, I went into a store and when I came back it would start but wouldn't go into gear. After an hour of diagnosis I learned that the fuse for the brake lights went out and when that happens it locks the shifter so you can't drive it like that.

Any help appreciated, how to diagnose starter?

- Joe -

 

I wouldn't trust the gauges. The small amount of power it takes to run the things you are mentioning is negligible. Did you try to jump start it?

 

I agree, don't trust the gauges on the vehicle if it's not running. If you know the cables are corroded, it very well could be a power issue. It takes A LOT more current to run the starter than it does to run the radio and gauges. If you want a quick test of the battery theory, turn the headlights on and try to start it. If the headlights dim considerably or go out when the key is in the Start position, you have a voltage/current issue. If they headlights stay really bright, then the issue is elsewhere.

Does the Security or Theft indicator in the instrument cluster flash rapidly when trying to start the truck? Are you sure the gear selector is completely in Park? Turn the key to Run, put your foot on the brake, shift to Neutral, and try to start it again.

-Rod

 

I went out to the truck this morning and tried the key again... nothing. So I went out and tapped the starter, got back in the truck and when I turned the key the starter half-tried to start it up. What I mean by that is it turns the engine intermittently/slowly and makes a lot of loud clicking. I'd say the starter is accomplishing about half of what it should. So I jumped it and it still sounded horrible but after probably 30-45 seconds of cranking it finally started up. I drove it home and parked it on ramps in the garage.

I got it home and tore into the battery cables. I cut the old ends off and cleaned the battery posts up like new. When I cut the cable sheathing back I found that the cable was corroded back a couple of inches. I cleaned all that up with CRC battery acid cleaner spray and installed new lead free cable ends like it had before. So the battery posts and cables look new and have a great connection.

Now when you get in and try the key it still clicks like crazy and does about 50% of its job. You can crank for 20 seconds and then it quits. Take the key out, put it back in and try it and you don't even get a click. Take the key out, bang on the starter, try the key again and you get another 20 seconds of cranking before it quits. It does that reliably.

I'm getting closer but I still can't say it's the starter over the battery because the battery is probably worn down now. Charging it as we speak.

Oh, I forgot about the battery. When I pulled the cover off I found that it's a "AAA" roadside assistance battery with a 3yr free replacement warranty. There are no months/years listed on it but it does say manufactured Aug '08 & Shipped Sept '08. So say it sold immediately that would mean it's just over 3yrs old.

Tough call, the battery is old enough that it could be the problem but at 6yrs/130k miles the starter is also due to go out.

 

The battery is all charged up and it behaves the same way as before. My wife got home from work and I had hr crank it while I watched the starter and held a stick to it. I can see that the starter is tight, no broken flanges etc. and the stick vibrates hard with the same timing as the clicking. Headed out to buy a Chilton's manual and a new starter now.

 

Good luck, and please let us know what you find to be the issue and fix.

-Rod

 

The V-8's are notorious for a rubbed starter cable near the oil filter drip/drain plastic trough. Check to see if yours is rubbed through.

 

I always like to do that for future searchers.

Well it's pretty simple. Once I got under there I found that there are three wires running to the starter, two large and one small. The small wire was "welded through" right where the wire meets the fitting on the starter.

It makes perfect sense, the starter was half working because the wire didn't have a good connection, it was arcing over. So when I cranked for 20 seconds it stopped working and when I rapped on the starter it shook the wire back in place plus the wire had cooled down again

So I fixed the wire, hooked it all back up and she starts great again.

 

Wow, before this thread I didn't realize this was such a common issue. Congrats on the fix, and thanks for the follow-up!

-Rod

 

Thats a handy bit of information to know, through reading this I suspected the starter had gone bad. I had just replaced one recently on a Taurus that was acting the same way. Nice job fordfool!