Fellas,

This I really need some help from the Ford crowd. Im currently deployed and we have a "hanger queen" in the shop thats been passed around a bit. Been reading ALOT the last 3.5 days on ALOT of Ford forums and using All Data. Heres what I've got so far:

2006 F-250 6.0 T/D Auto

Throwing DTC P2623

No matter what gear, or RPM once shes warmed up she'll die out. Crank it up and she'll just crank but won't run.

*Checked IPR Soleniod for Resistance
--Reading 5.4 ohms on my Multimeter

Going on to the next step

*Check IPR Soleniod Voltage (KOEO, measuring volts between IPR Sol. harness pin 1 VPWR (+) and a Ground (-). Says it should be greater than 10.5v
--With 11v on each battery Im getting 4-5v (but im thinking okay, for now lets keeping going, truck is ALL bone stock and the harness is untouched)

Going on to the next step

*Check IPR control circuit for short to power (PCM connector-near battery of driverside dissconnected, Key on Eng Off. Measure volts between IPR Sol connector IPR- Pin2 harness side (+) and Ground (-)
--I got .032 volts, each time


Going on to the next step

*Check the IPR control circuit a short to ground (key in off position, measure resistance between IPR sol connector harness side IPR Pin 2 (+) and Ground (-). Is the resistance greater than 10k ohms?
--I did this 5 times, and kept getting the out of limits (OL) on my fluke.

Going on to the next step

*Check the IPR control circuit for an open. Measure the resistance betwen PCM connector harness side IPR Pin E-2 (+) and IPR Sol connector harness side IPR Pin 2. Is the resistance LESS than 5 ohms?
--Yes! only reading .02 ohms

Next step says to dissconnet ALL PCM connectors-check for pushed pins, corrosion etc...

Ive done quite abit of this stuff already. Because of the conditions im under I had to pull the whole turbo assembly just to check all this stuff (no ford IPR sol tool available here lol) and Im fairly sure this isnt it.

It says if the code is still present to install NEW PCM.




I know im not very well versed with these engines, especially the 6.0's. Its got a few other DTCs but 2 are just related to a burned out glow plug. It had an EGR code, but I know enough. Took it out out cleaned it up in the parts cleaner and ran the engine above 2k for a while to blow out any built up carbon (or as long as I could get it to run bfore it would die on me).

Is there ANYTHING else that I can check or further troubleshoot????? I really want to come out on top with this one, since no one else wants to touch it. ANY and ALL help, tips or insight is VERY VERY much appreciated!!



Thanks,

Rob

 

How long does it take to "warm up" from cold/first start of the day before it dies?

Two possibilities come to mind.

1. Combustion gasses getting past a bad injector seal and into the fuel rail, causing the engine to stall. Can be diagnosed with this test... DTS Articles - Compression Bubble Test

2. High pressure oil (HPO) system leak. Check this article out for diagnosis... DTS Articles - 6.0L ICP System Leaks

 

Welcome to FTE Rob On a 2006 no start, it is usually a sign the Snap to Connect fitting (STC) on the high pressure pump is leaking or blown apart. Will run cold, hard start warm or will not run at all.

Since you obviously did not drive this particular vehicle to give us a hint on behavior, you are doing things correctly. Battery voltage is low, they need to be brought up or replaced.

I will send a tech in here to speed you through the process tonight, so keep checking back. Check out our Tech Folder at the top of this forum, plenty of information and PDF's for you to check over.

Where are you deployed? and Thanks for serving our country.

 

Here is a Good video off of Youtube

STC

 

Rob your on the right path but you may be missing something simple. Keep in mind that for a dvom to work all you need is one good strand of wire. I suggest you go load test the circuit using a high beam lamp. Also there is one round connector and one square connector on the left fender well on that harness that circuit passes threw the square connector iirc. take it apart make sure you don't have a burned/ pushed out pin. If the truck has had head gasket issues , fuel in coolant or oil in coolant then closely inspect the weather pak o-ring for being swollen and causing pin fit issues on that circuit.
if that fails I would suggest trying 2 things, install a known good ipr ( who's to say that it don't go open when hot and your only testing it cold) and second replace the pigtail for the ipr and when doing so splice as far back from the hard shell as possible.

 

Thanks Guys for the warm welcome & immediate responses! I am printing out this thread to keep near my box as I continue to plug away...



w_huisman- The truck runs cool for awhile before it heats up (cool runnin like a normal diesel). At my home station we've had 6.0's blow head gaskets and this one seems to run fine, no over heating. Thanks for that link, looks really helpful (printed that one out too)

Maxium4x4- Will deff take a good look at the STC fitting on the HPOP. Currently in Kuwait

cheezit- I appreciate your insight and experience. I am not quite sure what a DVOM is though. Good point about the IPR and you're right, i am checking it when its cold, so there is the possibilty that despite the ohm readings currently that it could in actuality be bad.


Today is a new day so I'll keep pluggin away. This help is Very much appreciated!

 

DVOM = digital volt ohm meter (FLUKE).

 

Good to hear back Rob, snowing horizontally with 40MPH winds here in Ohio...

Do get the batteries up to spec, low voltage is a killer to the electronics. If you need anything just ask and you can also improvise with what you have on tools. A long socket can be slotted to make removal of the IPR easy.

 

Felt like an idiot after i orinted this thread out and was reading it at my box, like a bolt of lightning "Oh, DVOM=digital volt/ohm meter" duh


Anyways I did the recommended oil leak pressure leak down test today via the ICP. No noises or sounds of air escaping anywhere. Also going over the haness again, noticed the weather packing for the HPOP switch (right next to the EOT sensor) on the harness side was appear to slide out of its fitting. Pushed the wire (and weather packing) back in. That whole area though is like all sooted up. The black factory electrical tape in that area is like disintigrating too. IPR area also is somewhat caked up with oil sweat. I know if i take the turbo back out and pull off that valley cover that the oil screen in the front area is probably going to be in desperate need of replacement. Just to scared to put it all back together knowing that that switch (on the harness side) most likely isnt goin to fix things..

 

There is no high pressure pump switch, it is gear driven off the cam and always turning with the engine.
the eot is a grey connector 2 wire. The single wire is the low side pressure switch, you can get the single wire hardshell as a replacement part. that will have no effect on the engine running unless it really does not have oil. by the way have you checked that yet?

 

Cheezit- Yes, you're right. It was the low pressure switch I was working with. Now that is low oil pressure switch for the HPOP or the main engine oil pump (for the rotating assembly, valvetrain etc). I will deff check engine oil level tho, didnt think about that til I was already getting "involved" with the truck, but YES will be checking that!

Maximum4x4- Thanks for the Video! WOW that guy is on point for sure. Really gives me more confidence towards the 6.0