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I know it depends on driving habits, tire, etc. I'm considering a tuner for a little boost in mpg. I have intake and a downpipe soon to be deleted cat. My question is for those who notices a difference while cruising at highway speeds empty, did you get any gains? If so how much? I drive 120 miles 3 times a week, currently getting in the neihborhood of 15 mpg. Tire size is 285, 410 gears, auto, going 70-75. Don't tell me a car gets 30 mpg I know and I'm not giving up my reliable, paid for truck. Especially when it snows! Thanks for the input!
IMO if you'r buying a chip for mileage gains only, it will take a LONG time to make it worthwhile. I think you'd be better off making sure all your brakes are good and nothing dragging, bearings greased good, tires properly inflated, alignment is good, fresh fluids in the differentials, etc. If you want more power too, then a chip is a good investment. But I wouldn't buy one expecting much increase in mileage. With everything I've done to mine, I gained about 1mpg empty. I do make about 2-3mpg better towing now as I have quite a bit more power and use less of the skinny pedal.
How fast you driving? 4.10's of course are hurting you some, especially if you're moving along at a good rate. My 3.55's get 17 empty at 75. 20 at 55 but who can drive that slow?? Your mileage isn't off far in my opinion, depending some on how many rpm's you're turning
I would like the extra power to as I will be doing some upgrades this summer. I want to build " my ultimate stage 1 truck " as I'll probably be driving it for 10 more years to be able to pay off my school loans. Thanks for the advice on maintenance I will get those looked over this weekend during my oil change. Another ? is are synthetic fluids worth it?
With 4.10 driving 70-75 your rpm's are around 22-2500 witch will kill your MPG's.
I have a 2wd single cab with 4.10 and if I drive 70-75 my MPG's are around 15-16 if I drop back to 65-68 I can get 17-18
4:10 gears will kill mpg, no two ways about it.
To add to what was said above, the best things you can do for MPG is to keep your boost low and your EGT low. This means driving with a light foot and not push any more fuel than you need to keep moving.
Try to use your brakes as little as possible. This means anticipate stops in advance and not keep your foot in the throttle till you're 20' from the stop light/sign.
Also, make sure the tires are aired up good.
And never go over 60 mph - 65 mph tops.
If any of these are overlooked you'll never achieve good mpg.
This might sound like a lot, but once you have it in your head that you want good mpg, you'll find yourself doing these things automatically!
I agree completely with Jim, but the fact that you are running 4.10 gears and the speed limit is that high is KILLING you on fuel. You need to get some 3.55 gears in that thing or find an old overdrive unit someplace to swap into it. I'd LOVE to have an old gearvendors unit or something similar to put into my truck, but it would be a bit more involved on a 4x4. On a 4x2, not as much...
For changing gears what would you guys think would be better 3:73 or 3:55? I tow a camp trailer maybe 3 times a year. Also I will probably run some 33 inch tires. What rpm drop would I see with each at 70 mph?
approximately 500rpm drop with 3.55's, 300 with 3.73's. Give or take a bit of course. How heavy/big is the camper trailer? How far do you travel with it? I'd like to go to 3.73's sometime but I do tow rather heavy also.
I know there are varying opinions on this but... Is it better to tow with OD on and "lug" the engine or is it better to turn OD off and run at the higher RPM's (less foot on the pedal to maintain speed)? I have 4.10's and tow 12 to 15k 5er through a very mountain filled So Cal
I know there are varying opinions on this but... Is it better to tow with OD on and "lug" the engine or is it better to turn OD off and run at the higher RPM's (less foot on the pedal to maintain speed)? I have 4.10's and tow 12 to 15k 5er through a very mountain filled So Cal
No input on mileage for you, but my opinion is that I would rather spin the engine faster and put less stress on it by running 3rd gear. It stands to reason that fuel consumption would be probably pretty close between both scenarios.
More mass fuel desired with fewer injection events per given time OR less MFD with more injection events per given time. If you have any way to watch MFD/IPW while towing, I suggest you do it. My mind is made up on how I'd rather tow.
no way to check, yet, but am looking for an old edge I can use strictly for the sensor monitoring. I feel more comfortable towing in 3rd, but the added noise becomes a little (nuisance to the wife more than anything) bit of a problem. It also smokes a lot more when needing to pass or get in the throttle if i'm in OD. All in all, I can deal with some smoke if the MPG's will bet better, but it sounds like a wash. Thanks Cody!
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