Sometimes I'm not the smartest guy!
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
Save the old ones
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 666
Likes: 4
From: Boyne Mich
Actually, it's the exact opposite.
The "click" is the solenoid working. If you hear a click, the problem is not the solenoid at all. I do not understand why this misconception has existed in people's minds since the beginning of time. Countless people on this site have wasted $20 on a new solenoid because of this exact advice.
When the solenoid clicks, you're hearing the sound of the giant slug inside slamming closed, connecting the battery to the starter through a circular plate. This is ALL the solenoid has to do. If the solenoid clicks yet the starter does not turn, something else is wrong. If the solenoid clicks and the starter turns yet the motor does not start then the starting system has nothing to do with the equation anymore because it's doing it's job.
When the solenoid chatters, this STILL does not implicate the solenoid. This means the working voltage of the battery is too low - either because of a low battery, bad battery, bad connections, or bad battery cables. The chatter happens because the battery voltage starts out high enough, so turning the key closes the solenoid - but as soon as the low-impedance starter is connected to the battery, the battery voltage is brought down low enough to let go of the solenoid. This disconnects the starter, which lets the battery voltage go back up, and since you're still holding on to the key, the solenoid closes again - over and over and over.
Folks, please digest this post and commit it to memory and stop wasting $20.
The "click" is the solenoid working. If you hear a click, the problem is not the solenoid at all. I do not understand why this misconception has existed in people's minds since the beginning of time. Countless people on this site have wasted $20 on a new solenoid because of this exact advice.
When the solenoid clicks, you're hearing the sound of the giant slug inside slamming closed, connecting the battery to the starter through a circular plate. This is ALL the solenoid has to do. If the solenoid clicks yet the starter does not turn, something else is wrong. If the solenoid clicks and the starter turns yet the motor does not start then the starting system has nothing to do with the equation anymore because it's doing it's job.
When the solenoid chatters, this STILL does not implicate the solenoid. This means the working voltage of the battery is too low - either because of a low battery, bad battery, bad connections, or bad battery cables. The chatter happens because the battery voltage starts out high enough, so turning the key closes the solenoid - but as soon as the low-impedance starter is connected to the battery, the battery voltage is brought down low enough to let go of the solenoid. This disconnects the starter, which lets the battery voltage go back up, and since you're still holding on to the key, the solenoid closes again - over and over and over.
Folks, please digest this post and commit it to memory and stop wasting $20.
Just because the Solinoid clicks does not mean it is always good.
Just like an Industrial magnetic contactor, the solinoid portion may work , but the contacts could be burnt. I have seen the contact disc and posts pretty burned up before.
You really need to use a meter to verify full voltage through the starter solinoid.
I only bring it up because I bin there
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: North West
It is a '78 but it was not a NSS problem it worked fine it did it's job. The problem was the idiot(me) standing outside the truck bypassing the solenoid thinking it was bad.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 108
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whats NSS stand for? i have a problem with my truck coming out of park. one time i put it in park and got out and let it run (had to run to the house quick) then it popped into reverse and i ended up chasing my truck down the street. thankfully i caught it and it didnt hit anything. why does it do this?
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
I have a problem with my truck coming out of Park.
One time I put it in Park and got out and let it run (had to run to the house quick), then it popped into Reverse and I ended up chasing my truck down the street. Thankfully, I caught it and it didn't hit anything.
Why does it do this?
One time I put it in Park and got out and let it run (had to run to the house quick), then it popped into Reverse and I ended up chasing my truck down the street. Thankfully, I caught it and it didn't hit anything.
Why does it do this?
Peeps put the shift lever into Park before setting the hand brake, causing the truck to roll...just enough...that the parking pawl inside the trans locks up tight.
When this occurres, the shift lever has to be YANKED out of Park. Sooner or later, the gate between Park and Reverse snaps off.
So, when you place the shift lever into Park, it doesn't hold, drops into Reverse...not pleasant!
* 1978/79 F100/350 & Bronco: D8TZ-7A216-A .. Detent-Use without Tilt Wheel // D8TZ-7A216-B .. Detent-Use with Tilt Wheel.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I aggree for the most part, Just let me add
Just because the Solinoid clicks does not mean it is always good.
Just like an Industrial magnetic contactor, the solinoid portion may work , but the contacts could be burnt. I have seen the contact disc and posts pretty burned up before.
You really need to use a meter to verify full voltage through the starter solinoid.
I only bring it up because I bin there
Just because the Solinoid clicks does not mean it is always good.
Just like an Industrial magnetic contactor, the solinoid portion may work , but the contacts could be burnt. I have seen the contact disc and posts pretty burned up before.
You really need to use a meter to verify full voltage through the starter solinoid.
I only bring it up because I bin there
My main point was that it's very common for people to interpret the clicking sound as a sign of the solenoid being dead, when in fact the click lets you know that not only is power getting to the solenoid, but the slug is closing. The real time to suspect the solenoid is when you turn the key and you don't hear the click. If you then verify that you have 12 volts at the 'S' terminal with the key in START, the solenoid is bolted clean (grounded) to the fenderwell, and the solenoid still does not click, then it's time to replace it. Of course, if it clicks but does not actually apply voltage to the starter as you've said, then it should be replaced then too. However, 95% of people who replace a solenoid in my experience do not actually look for voltage anywhere and simply justify a "clicking sound" as a reason to replace it, without actually testing anything.
So, folks - keep Drac's point in mind in addition to what I said before.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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One of my better moments was when I went to look at a 77 F150 4x4 short box. Pulled up to the guys house and there it was. Nice body, paint and a 4 speed was a must. He had got a huge overhead camper and needed a long box so wanted to sell the short box. He had the camper on jacks and had pulled the truck so the hood was just under the overhang. I looked it over and wanted to take it for a test drive. I jumped in and hit the key, it was in granny gear. It started almost instantly and lurched forward. I could have not come with in a inch of the windshield hitting the camper and I am sure it would have knocked it off the jacks. Well I had not pushed in the clutch and it was ready to go!!!!! I bought the truck and felt real lucky that I did not have to buy the camper also. One of my better moments.
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