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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:07 PM
  #1  
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Backup Lights

I like to get more lights for backing up at night, what do you guy do to increase the backup lights?

Saw JCWhitney have the backup lights hooking up to the tow receiver, does it interfere with tow hook up at all?

Thanks,
Viet
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by VQT
I like to get more lights for backing up at night, what do you guy do to increase the backup lights?

Saw JCWhitney have the backup lights hooking up to the tow receiver, does it interfere with tow hook up at all?

Thanks,
Viet
I considered a bunch of different lights. My concern was with such a long distance from the rear axle to the back of the bumper (HORRIBLE departure angle) that if I put something there it could get ripped off if the rear end bottoms out.

I decided to go simple and get the generic work lights from AutoZone/PepBoys/O'Reilly's/insert your favorite auto parts shop here.


They are rubber housings with sealed beams you can replace if they go out. If they get hit they can flex without breaking off. I drilled a small hole at the end of the bumper mount (outside of the vertical strut). Cheap and effective. Tied them in via a Carlin switch on the 650 dash panel, but you can wire them direct to the reverse lights with a relay, or do like I did on my Expedition and put in an couple of diodes and an on-off-on switch to choose constant on, off, and on with reverse.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:18 PM
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superbrightled.com has these 10 watt units that are way bright
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:42 PM
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Robert,

How much total in parts did it cost you?

Curt,

I like that LED type lights. Do you still have to connect a relay to these type of light?

Thanks again
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by VQT
How much total in parts did it cost you?
AutoZone lists the Hella brand for $9.99 per.
Hella/4 3/4 in. 55 Watts 12 Volt rubber halogen work lamp (H15986001) | Auxiliary Lights | AutoZone.com



I think mine are not Hella brand...but the pricing was about the same. I got the off brand because I saw they had stock in replacement bulbs right there, but if Hella is what they carry and you like them, go for it.

Diodes to do the three-way switch were maybe 1 or 2 bucks. Wiring I had laying around. The three way switch was another 2 or 3 bucks.

The current layout includes the Carlin and F650 dash panel - thats a few hundred, so I'm sure you'll want just the 'basic' setup I had on my Expedition.

 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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I used a separate switch, in the overhead sunglasses compartment, from a different circuit. At 20 watts, under 2 amps not sure if you would need a relay.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Curt's05
I used a separate switch, in the overhead sunglasses compartment, from a different circuit. At 20 watts, under 2 amps not sure if you would need a relay.
If you are running the wires direct from the battery, no, but I make it a rule to never pull from the fuse box without one. Having to replace a fried wire behind the fuse box because of an overloaded circuit is a nightmare.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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fuses are a must, great insurance if anything goes wrong.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 12:04 AM
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i have one of the white kight backup light systems... absolutely love it. pop it off if i need to hook the trailer up.


 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 12:23 AM
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AlaskanEx,

That's what I saw in JCWhitney.com
Did you ever had to hitch up at night? Using the backup lights to see your way, then had to take off the light to hitch up.

How far away the Ex receiver need to be from the trailer hitch?

From what I understand, this thing hookup with the trailer wiring (using the trailer backup lights wiring). Can we hook it to the Ex backup lights and leave the light alone when you tow?

Thanks,
Viet
Originally Posted by AlaskanEx
i have one of the white kight backup light systems... absolutely love it. pop it off if i need to hook the trailer up.


 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 12:54 AM
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there are a few different ways to mount the white knight system.

i have mine on the removable slider that goes into the hitch. so if i want to use the trailer i need to unplug it and remove the light first. in this case i turn the flashers on and i get enough light from that and the marker lights to see. but i hardly tow in the dark since i only tow in the summer and it doesn't get dark here in the summer lol

there is supposed to be another mounting option that allows you to leave it and use your shank without issue..takes another mounting kit though from what i recall.

i really like the light though, it has held up well i've backed into a few snowbanks when the reverse sensors did not go off before hand and it has not been damaged...yet plus it looks much cleaner then lights hanging off the hitch/bumper...which is what i have on my expedition. plan on buying another one of these lights.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:06 AM
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I didn't go with the clip on style for just that reason. I have this hitch I nicknamed "Beetlegeuse":


I leave the drop bar locked on the truck all the time and just put the ball/hook section on as needed. It's not as much of a deterrent to tailgaters as when good 'ol "B" is attached but it works enough.

Seriously though, I couldn't find one that would clear the bumper and hitch pin and not have to be removed for towing.

Plus, we often have to hook up at a moments notice in the dark by ourselves, so messing with removable lights just doesn't cut it. With the aid of the reverse cam up by the third brake light and the backup lights, I can hook up the first time every time no matter the conditions.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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yeah it might not be the ticket for you guys that tow alot...i dont tow much at all..a utility trailer every once and awhile.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 01:42 AM
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Robert_l_ross,

I thought your Ex is at stock height right now, why is it your ball sit kind off low according to the picture. How many inches above the ground does the ball have to be?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by VQT
Robert_l_ross,

I thought your Ex is at stock height right now, why is it your ball sit kind off low according to the picture. How many inches above the ground does the ball have to be?
That pic is the stock pic. I use the drop bar as a "raise" bar, then if you look at the pic I seat the other part of the hitch "upside down" from the pic, at the top hole.

With the upcoming V/Modded B sprint swap, I may need to use the 2nd or 3rd hole down to accommodate the additional 1 1/2" - 2 inches of lift from those taller springs. I'll take measurements/pics tomorrow.
 
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