Backup Lights
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
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From: Sacramento Area
When I'm not towing, I leave the "L" bar on and just remove the ball hitch section (pull the two pins closest to the bumper).
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,076
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Archtaan/Robert,
Found the wire from the rear of the truck, the schematic show a BK/PK wire as the backup lights, found that too after prying out the protective cover; it was so brittle so that will need to be cover again after the attachment.
So I need to attach the after market light hot wire to this and find a place to ground the backup light wire, correct?
Thanks.
Found the wire from the rear of the truck, the schematic show a BK/PK wire as the backup lights, found that too after prying out the protective cover; it was so brittle so that will need to be cover again after the attachment.
So I need to attach the after market light hot wire to this and find a place to ground the backup light wire, correct?
Thanks.
When you tie in, make sure you use the hot wire and not the ground. If you use the ground and the bulb burns out in the factory reverse light, the aux light won't work since the bulb breaks the circuit when burnt out.
I ended up tying my backup cam into the harness at the bulb. It was a little more time, but I didn't have the schematic and didn't really want to tear apart the harness and probe to find the right lead. Hardest part was getting the wire through the giant rubber grommet behind the tail light housing. I used a large Phillips screwdriver to 'stretch' out the opening long enough to get the wire through.
The rear lights I have tied to a switch alone. At some point I'll modify the switch to an on-off-on and add some diodes to let me choose to have them come on 'auto' with the reverse signal or 'manual' with the switch or 'off' completely.
I ended up tying my backup cam into the harness at the bulb. It was a little more time, but I didn't have the schematic and didn't really want to tear apart the harness and probe to find the right lead. Hardest part was getting the wire through the giant rubber grommet behind the tail light housing. I used a large Phillips screwdriver to 'stretch' out the opening long enough to get the wire through.
The rear lights I have tied to a switch alone. At some point I'll modify the switch to an on-off-on and add some diodes to let me choose to have them come on 'auto' with the reverse signal or 'manual' with the switch or 'off' completely.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
Archtaan/Robert,
Found the wire from the rear of the truck, the schematic show a BK/PK wire as the backup lights, found that too after prying out the protective cover; it was so brittle so that will need to be cover again after the attachment.
So I need to attach the after market light hot wire to this and find a place to ground the backup light wire, correct?
Thanks.
Found the wire from the rear of the truck, the schematic show a BK/PK wire as the backup lights, found that too after prying out the protective cover; it was so brittle so that will need to be cover again after the attachment.
So I need to attach the after market light hot wire to this and find a place to ground the backup light wire, correct?
Thanks.
I am not sure what will happen if you tap the hot wire into the factory reverse then ground it. It may work but the aftermarket lights might not get enough power since that is a pretty small gauge wire. Do you have the wiring diagram or link for the lights you bought. That would help us a lot.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Tim,
I am still in a research stage on the lights. Then I will need to buy the whole combination of lights and relay together so it won't be any confusion for me later
I am still in a research stage on the lights. Then I will need to buy the whole combination of lights and relay together so it won't be any confusion for me later
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
I am not sure what will happen if you tap the hot wire into the factory reverse then ground it. It may work but the aftermarket lights might not get enough power since that is a pretty small gauge wire. Do you have the wiring diagram or link for the lights you bought. That would help us a lot.
I think this would be safer:
The only problem with this layout is that you never have an 'off' option - they always come on with reverse lights. I didn't choose this method because on our trailers we have big shiny rock guards and the trailers are white. At night, the combination of factory reverse lights and the bigger aftermarket ones made quite the glare to deal with through the rear window. I liked to have the option to turn them on manually, on auto (the diagram shows both options), but also to not have them come on at all.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
Personally, I wouldn't go for the kit, I'd get a single relay, switch and a roll of wire - it would probably be cheaper and the wire will come in handy for other projects. If you go with diodes to get them to tie in to the factory or to give you then on-off-on option, Radio Shack will have them for cheap. You will want to get a soldering pen or one of those 'cold-solder' devices (they run off of AA batteries) that don't have a heat up time and is cold to the touch when you are done soldering.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
I think your diagram is a bit off...you need two diodes - the way it's drawn you could backfeed into the switch circuit.
I think this would be safer:
The only problem with this layout is that you never have an 'off' option - they always come on with reverse lights. I didn't choose this method because on our trailers we have big shiny rock guards and the trailers are white. At night, the combination of factory reverse lights and the bigger aftermarket ones made quite the glare to deal with through the rear window. I liked to have the option to turn them on manually, on auto (the diagram shows both options), but also to not have them come on at all.
I think this would be safer:
The only problem with this layout is that you never have an 'off' option - they always come on with reverse lights. I didn't choose this method because on our trailers we have big shiny rock guards and the trailers are white. At night, the combination of factory reverse lights and the bigger aftermarket ones made quite the glare to deal with through the rear window. I liked to have the option to turn them on manually, on auto (the diagram shows both options), but also to not have them come on at all.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
Good eye, you are right a diode would protect the switch better. I didn't think to include one since it was a grounded and fused switch, but that isn't a perfect failsafe like a diode. Better safe than sorry. I probably would not use the backup light signal at all and just make the lights activate by a switched source as needed at night instead of every time you backup day or night as you mentioned.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
Likes: 1
From: Virginia
I'm actually going to eventually do the three wire setup on mine. I need to find a Carling three way first. I'm hoping it's not too big of a deal to pull one of the ones from the Riffraff 650 kit. Maybe just add an 'auto/manual' additional switch if its too difficult.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,923
Likes: 33
From: Sacramento Area
In my Expy I did a tiny 3 pole on the front side of the overhead console...don't think I'll do that on the Ex since I may put a gauge pod up there...
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Wharton, NJ
