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Both codes are for Injection control Pressure. P1211= Injection control pressure Higher/lower than desired engine running and P 1280 = Injection control pressure sensor circuit low.
I used a Solus Pro from Snap-On to read the codes. It returned a code of 1211 and a code of 1280. All eight injectors cycled properly according to the reader. Anything else I need to do?
Can he monitor live data while cranking? Did he clear the codes, crank again to see if those two came back? The 1280 could point to chaffed or shorted wires going to the ICP sensor or the IPR, or they could just be left over from when you unplugged the ICP sensor and tried to start it when you had the Autozone code reader.
Knowing ICP in psi and IPR duty % while cranking would be useful if his scanner can do it. Also check engine rpm, voltage, injector pulse width in m/s while cranking if live data is available.
Finally got a chance to look at my truck again and I hope that I found the problem. I hooked up a clear hose to the fuel bowl drain and turned key on. I am getting alot of air bubbles and then some fuel, more air and then some fuel. I think that my pick up tube is cracked. Is it easier to pull the tank or remove the bed? I have a spray in bed liner so all the bolts are covered. Any suggestions or are there some videos that show tank removal.
Finally got a chance to look at my truck again and I hope that I found the problem. I hooked up a clear hose to the fuel bowl drain and turned key on. I am getting alot of air bubbles and then some fuel, more air and then some fuel. I think that my pick up tube is cracked. Is it easier to pull the tank or remove the bed? I have a spray in bed liner so all the bolts are covered. Any suggestions or are there some videos that show tank removal.
Well hey, sounds like progress!
One way to confirm the problem is to remove the fuel line from the suction side of the fuel pump (located on the frame pretty much under the drivers door, has a goofy and problematic quick release) and put a couple feet of fuel hose on and route it into a container of clean fuel. Cycle the key on a few times for like 30 seconds each to let the pump work, then see if the flow out the fuel bowl drain improves. If no change it is likely the pump not the pickup.
Here's a good write up on the Hutch mod and Harpoon while you're in there.
I chose to lift the bed as I was working alone, but in your case I'd drop the tank a la Guzzle.
Ok I tried what you said to do. I unhooked the suction side of fuel pump and put a hose on it that went to a can of fuel with the other end. At least 3 gallons in can and hose was at the bottom. I hooked up a clear hose to fuel bowl drain and went to another can. Same result, alot of air in clear hose. Tried it several times and same each time. Is the fuel pump bad and where does the air come from?
I have a correction to make. I was using an oversized hose on the outlet side of pump and that was where the air was coming from. I put the correct size on both sides of pump with a clamp and it now pumps a solid stream of fuel from the tank or from a can. I even took the pump completely off and ran it from one can to another and it put out a solid stream of fuel no air. What should the pressure be from the fuel pump and any suggestions on what to try next. I don't want to put my truck in the shop but I may have to if I can't get it going soon.
Yes, The Hutch and harpoon mods listed above in post #37. While I admit I haven't done either of these mods, I know any problems fuel related, I will be doing these mods. He even has a link to raise the bed instead of dropping the tank. Read these mods. Guzzle has a very good write up on how to do them, and they have pictures too! Guzzle has a list of parts needed that you could either go buy separately, or you can order a kit from a few different suppliers.
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