That's a nice looking engine room! I would have to do a LOT of cosmetic work before my underhood area needs such "pretty" brake plumbing

 

After I posted that pic I was hoping you didn't take offense. That was after complete removal of the engine and a hell of a lot of work. So I apologize if it came across that way.
What I was clumsily trying to do was show you the nice tight wraps you can get just by using stuff that is laying around.
BTW that mstr cyl and booster is a CCP unit as discussed earlier in the thread.

 

No offense taken, that's why I appended the ""... it looks great!

My truck is purely functional (mostly used for hauling my firewood from the local sawmill) and I haven't made any effort to make it look good. I have all the parts to build a low-compression 390 and someday I'll build it and swap it in; while the engine bay is empty will be a good time to clean it up

 

Yeah, caught the and thanks.
Just found it's good to be maybe a little to careful because the "written" word can easily be taken the wrong way.
Back to trucks. That is exactly what I did with mine, used it 'til it broke and then totally redo it.
Good luck with yours.

 

Progress. The right front flex-hose was indeed blocked solid. Ordered a new pair (will do the left front someday). The hard line did twist off at the nut on the frame, so I ran a new 1/4" steel line back to the junction block.

I had too much pedal travel even after bleeding, and found I was unable to adjust the left front brake. The adjuster screw was locked solid but with some "persuasion" followed by wire wheeling and anti-seize paste it is now working. While it was apart I put in a new set of brake shoes (only $19.99 at Autozone and they have a lifetime warranty. Including normal wear). Did the right front also, of course. One interesting thing I found is that on the previous brake job I'd reversed the primary and secondary shoes on both sides, so one was worn much more than the other

Anyhow with the rear brakes disconnected and the port plugged, I was able to get a nice hard pedal once both fronts were properly adjusted

However, with the rears hooked up, although the truck is driveable and stops straight, the pedal is much softer and runs out of travel before I can lock up the fronts. From what I can see through the left rear adjuster hole, the star wheel has little tiny teeth (unlike the fronts) and may be supposed to self-adjust - I can't get it to rotate. Which it isn't even with multiple back up and hit the brakes. Of course. Pulling the rear drums is more work since the Dana 70 is full floating axles. Oh well, that'll have to wait a couple weeks until I'm back in town.

 

one thing that I learned doing my brakes is that the bolt that holds the brake rod to the pedal is eccentric. You can adjust the amount of pedal by rotating this bolt . I removed mine and marked it with a sharpie so I could yell where it was in rotation. By turning until your pedal comes up and then tightening the nut you may solve some of your pedal issue.

 

As you may have seen in my other thread (Rear brakes - what a mess), the problem was not only that the left side was oil-soaked and the adjuster frozen, but the right side had disintegrated (drum in two pieces, one pushrod and the adjuster completely missing). That explains the excessive travel with the rears hooked up!

I replaced everything back there, right down to the backing plates... drums, 12x3 shoes, wheel cylinders, oil seals, bearings... bled and adjusted... NOW it works! Of course it's still four-wheel drums underneath a 10,000 lb (fully loaded) truck, so it won't perform like a modern ABS/disc system, but I can live with it now.

The cost of the booster with new master, a coil of steel lines and various small parts was is under $200 but a lot of time and some fabrication was required. It's not a bolt-in. IF there were a kit to fit the oddball '65-'66 F-350, I'd recommend going that route. F-100/250 owners can already buy a kit.