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Help! Blue Spring installation

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #16  
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hasteranger
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be very careful with heat! first off, diesel isn't explosive like gas but still flammable. Secondly, there are a ton of plastic and rubber components in that area. If you can't get it off with wrenchs I think there is a problem... do you have a muscly person you can ask to crank it for you?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:14 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Sark
I got the 21 & 22mm wrenches & I still can't break it loose. I'm afraid I'll twist the fuel line so I'm going to try some heat.

Thanks, great picture!
Thanks! When I did my blue spring I posted up some pics and info here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ue-spring.html
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:33 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by hasteranger
be very careful with heat! first off, diesel isn't explosive like gas but still flammable. Secondly, there are a ton of plastic and rubber components in that area. If you can't get it off with wrenchs I think there is a problem... do you have a muscly person you can ask to crank it for you?
The muscle isn't the problem as I can squeez the 2 wrenches until I bust a gut, also I could put a cheater bar on it. It's not breaking loose from the fuel line. I've put Rust Buster, WD-40 & you-name-it on to no avail.

The heat I'm going to use would be from a heat gun on the low setting of 500-700 degrees & I'm not going to get it HOT HOT just on the warm side & try that.

Right now it's a real pisser!!!!!!

Thanks!!
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:35 AM
  #19  
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by hasteranger
be very careful with heat! first off, diesel isn't explosive like gas but still flammable. Secondly, there are a ton of plastic and rubber components in that area. If you can't get it off with wrenchs I think there is a problem... do you have a muscly person you can ask to crank it for you?
I was able to separate the cover from the fitting, but the fitting was still seized to the fuel inlet pipe. all I did was heat the fuel inlet pipe and the fitting, then replaced all the related o-rings, that came in the kit.

I later discovered, if you are just replacing the spring and not the cover, you can leave the fuel inlet pipe attached to the cover and there is enough room to take the 4 screws off, move the cover back to swap out the spring, seat and seal, then bolt it together.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:38 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Thanks! When I did my blue spring I posted up some pics and info here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ue-spring.html
I made a post about my install too, but didn't take any pictures.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...er-things.html
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:08 PM
  #21  
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From: West Virginia
Originally Posted by 96_F250_Deezal
I was able to separate the cover from the fitting, but the fitting was still seized to the fuel inlet pipe. all I did was heat the fuel inlet pipe and the fitting, then replaced all the related o-rings, that came in the kit.

I later discovered, if you are just replacing the spring and not the cover, you can leave the fuel inlet pipe attached to the cover and there is enough room to take the 4 screws off, move the cover back to swap out the spring, seat and seal, then bolt it together.
Yep, thought this was common knowledge. If I ever do another one I'm buying the kit without the cover. They are exactly the same...
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:34 PM
  #22  
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yeah, no reason to buy cover... unless the old one is damaged or leaking.

I found the kit cheaper at the local international dealer.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...parts-ftw.html
 
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #23  
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Thumbs up Blue spring upgrade completed - a pain

Well I completed the blue spring upgrade last week.

I never could break loose the 21mm flare nut loose from the 22mm inlet. I even tried a little heat, plus I asked someone else to try & break it loose. So I ended up pulling the plate & fuel line back enough to finish the job.

There was one thread that commented about the new "O" ring on the black plastic part & not going back into place. He was 100% correct. No matter what you tried that part with the new "O" ring, oiled, would not go in. I reused the old "O" ring & it still had to use a little force to get in. When I took the black plastic part out I had to use a pair of needle nose & pull it out. It did not just slip out pulling it with your fingers.

It might be just me but I think now there's better throttle response but I'll have to give it some time & see.

I want to thank all of you that have chimed in with with the helpful threads.

Thanks again.

My next venture is to install my new "Mag-Hytec" diff. cover.
 
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