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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Exclamation interior electrical problems!

hey guys, im new here so this is my first post. i have a 79 supercab and none of my gauge cluster lights work except my turn signals,brake light, and seat belt lights. i need my speedometer and instrument lights to work....ive changed my bulbs in them,replaced the fuses and checked the connection but there is still no light. plz help me.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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Did you try twisting the headlight **** in both directions?

Does the dome light come on full counter-clockwise on the headlight ****.

Josh
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:50 PM
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yeah ive tried that...the dome light does come on but the rest of them dont...ive put new bulbs in too but nothing
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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With the headlight **** turned all the way to the LEFT such that the dimmer should be at full brightness, do you have power at both sides of the fuse? You'll need a multimeter for this, or at the very least a test light. Report your results.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by fmc400
With the headlight **** turned all the way to the LEFT such that the dimmer should be at full brightness, do you have power at both sides of the fuse? You'll need a multimeter for this, or at the very least a test light. Report your results.

agree with fmc400, another thing you can do is use a meter or test light and see if you have power at the bulbs and coming out of the feed from the headlight switch, if not then the switch is probably bad, mine was, cost about $12 for a new one and all my lights worked again.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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i went to autozone today and talked with a guy and he said it could either be that (what you guys just said, ha) or it could be the switchitself where there it a spring that touches a metal piece to cause more/less resistance,which then causes them to dim or brighten so ill try both in the morning....thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old Jan 2, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Georgia Boyy
i went to autozone today and talked with a guy and he said it could either be that (what you guys just said, ha) or it could be the switchitself where there it a spring that touches a metal piece to cause more/less resistance,which then causes them to dim or brighten so ill try both in the morning....thanks for the help guys!
He's correct; that's how the dimmer works.

The test I've described essentially checks that this mechanism (called a rheostat) is still intact. The output of the dimmer feeds one side of the fuse. Over time the piece that rides the spring (called a wiper) loses contact or suffers from corrosion, and cuts off power to the entire circuit. If you don't see power on either side of the fuse, then the rheostat is likely to blame.
 
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