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Long crank time

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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #1  
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Long crank time

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and a new PSD owner. I have an '06 F350 FX4 Lariat Crew Cab SRW with 113k. The only thing I have added to the truck is a Banks Ram Air.

Anyway...on to the long crank time issue. The truck takes several seconds to start (5-7 usually) 99% of the time. Occasionally, if it is restarted after just a few minutes, it may start in 4-5 secs., but that's rare. I've read several of the threads about the FICM issues & high pressure oil system leaks. What has me a little stumped is I don't have any of the other symptoms that others seem to have. It has never failed to start on the first try. It has never died. After it starts is runs smooth as silk. It doesn't blow any smoke (other than a little white when it's really cold out, like any other vehicle). Fluids and filters were changed about 1000 miles ago. I'm running Mobil 1 5w40 for turbo diesels. The filters (fuel & oil) were WIX (done before I read all the posts about using OEM filters). Could the filters be the issue??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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non-OEM filters have been known to extend cranking times due to the differences and the oil drain valve. i would get a scangauge2 or edge cts if i were u so you can see what the hp oil pressure is when cranking and to protect ur motor. the dash gauges are just like warning lights.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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I agree. OEM filters are the way to go. As well as seeing if you have any codes. I would also check the ficm votage. You might have oil pressure leaking down or glow plug issues. Shot in the dark without seeing if any codes are stored.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 05:30 PM
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Did the Wix oil filter come with a new cap? If so did you keep your stock cap?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2011 | 05:55 PM
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This is good thread on the matter, specifically post #30.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-again-2.html
 

Last edited by Shaneb75; Dec 29, 2011 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Forgot the thread again... geez
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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Thanks for all the info.

Shaneb75> The OEM cap was gone when I got the truck. I'll pick up an OEM filter & cap and see if that helps. Thanks for the link.

joe_r_dog> I've been looking at the SG online, will probably order that too.

9228.bobcat> I'm gonna load test the batteries this afternoon - see if that might be causing FICM issues. Can I check the FICM voltage with the SG???
I read a post on another thread where it was suggested to try and start the truck without waiting for the glow plugs to cycle. I tried that yesterday afternoon and the truck started in less than 2 seconds.

I'm wondering if it might be a combination of non-OEM filters and either weak batteries or glow plugs???
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 12:36 PM
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No Oil Pressure!

OK guys, things just took a turn for the worse!

I took the truck out to run an errand. Started with the long crank like usual, everything else fine. When I was waiting in the turn lane at my destination, the Low Oil Pressure warning came on - the pressure gauge was all the way down. When I gave it fuel to pull into the parking lot, the pressure went right back up to it's normal running range (basically right in the center of the "normal" range). When I let off the fuel to park it, the pressure dropped out again. The engine was still smooth as silk with no change in sound. I shut it off and let it sit of about 5 mins. Oil level is good, no visible issues. I restarted the truck, again the pressure all the way down. I just touched the fuel and and the pressure jumped right back up to normal. A couple of seconds after I let off the fuel it dropped out again. I shut it off and it's still sitting there.

Any help, suggestions would be fantastic. Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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The stock oil pressure gauge is just an idiot light basically. Gauge shows pressure once it hits a so much psi. That could just be the sensor is bad. There is a test port on the front of the oil cooler IIRC. Best to get a real gauge and see what the pressure really is.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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I kind of doubt its a pressure problem. It kinda sounds like an electrical issue, once you revved it up a bit that change in vibration may cause it to show pressure again. Of course, you won't know for sure unless you check the real pressure. The engine oil pressure test port is what is called a DR fitting, diagnostic receptacle. Its a standardized flat faced quick disconnect test fitting. Its common in the John Deere equipment world. That is what you will need to test the pressure. You could probably remove that fitting and put any fitting you would like, its probably 12M or 14M 1.5 straight oring fitting, but thats just a guess.....
 
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Old Dec 30, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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Long crank time

I had the same problem. The no oil pressure at idle is because of a plug missing on the drivers side of the hpop between the two bolts that hold it.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 04PSDCREW4X4
I had the same problem. The no oil pressure at idle is because of a plug missing on the drivers side of the hpop between the two bolts that hold it.
How difficult is it access this plug?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by pjchild
How difficult is it access this plug?
You have to pull the hpop which is under the turbo.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 04PSDCREW4X4
I had the same problem. The no oil pressure at idle is because of a plug missing on the drivers side of the hpop between the two bolts that hold it.
You had no engine oil pressure, or no high pressure oil pressure? Very different. What year is your truck?
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 77-250
You had no engine oil pressure, or no high pressure oil pressure? Very different. What year is your truck?
I had this problem with engine oil late 04 model. When truck was cold it took 15 seconds or more to start. When warm it took probably 10 second. I had oil pressure till oil got to 120 degrees then at idle it would drop to nothing. Idle up to 830 pressure would come back up. I had scangauge hooked up.
 
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