i unplugged the sensor and still not firing up. would that code indicate a high ressure oil problem? is there a way to check the hpop?

 

Yep you have HPO problems
If it was just that sensor that was bad it would have started when you cranked with the ICP sensor unplugged more than likely

have you done any recent work??

If you could monitor ICP & IPR% you could see if its a leak or a bad HPOP

 

The way I see it you have 3 options here

1. get a scangauge and see whats happening

2. Tear into it and give it an air test
1 & 2 may go hand in hand

3. Haul it to the dealer

 

how would i moniter it if it is not running. when i crank on it the oil pressure comes up to where it runs when the engine is running. i have about 3500 miles on this oil change. could a dirty filter contribute to this?

 

That's your base oil pressure not the high pressure oil that is needed to fire the injectors.

 

As raptor said - it is the high pressure system that is the issue - not the base oil pressure. The dash gauge is for the base oil pressure and is really a switch, not a gauge.

To monitor the HPO pressure, you will need a scan tool (the scangaugeII that was already mentioned is the cheapest) or you need to back-probe the ICP sensor wires to get a voltage. The minimum voltage is 0.82 to 0.84 (it varies somewhat).

This is all discussed in the no-start sticky thread in the Tech folder.

Where is your ICP sensor located?

 

You would have to get a scangauge and check ICP & IPR% while you crank

we can hook you up with operating values but you need something to see them with

When you unpluged the ICP sensor was the pigtail oil soaked or anything like that

Sometimes unplugging the ICP sensor works sometimes it dont Iv seen it go both ways

How shure are you that you have a stock oil filter cap

 

Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector (or better yet, back-probe the wires). Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.82 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil. NOTE - Ford literature states an even higher voltage - 0.84 volts.

 

lmfao, He doesn't want you to know so stop asking.

 

LOL - yeah sometimes it is hard to tell if the persistance is appreciated .........

 

i do appreciate all your help. i have an electrical degree and a mechanical degree. i troubleshoot and rebuild multi-million dollar equipment for a living. i just am not good at these 6.0 engines. i will chek the voltage on the icp as soon as my wife and kids get home from church so i have an assistant. by the way it is located in the valve cover on the passenger side front.

 

The reason for asking so persistantly is that it determines the troubleshooting path. An air pressure test is easier when it is located on the passenger valve cover.

Also, your ICP location tells us that you have a HPO system with more seals in it than if it is an EARLY 2004 engine. This means that there is more potential for actual leaks in the HPO system.

Getting the ICP readings is an important next step (because it still COULD BE unrelated to the ICP code).

It may or may not apply, but I'll leave you with one more post (and this stuff is in the Tech Folder if you have gone there as suggested):

One way to diagnose for an HPOP leak without a teardown: Remove the ICP sensor --- use this hole to pressurize the HPO system with 100 psig air (05-07 the ICP is on the passenger side valve cover and they use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting). You also need to have a way to send 12V power to the IPR, but only for 30 seconds to a MAX of 120 seconds or it will burn out. ALSO - before applying the shop air, remove the oil fill cap - just to prevent the possibility of overpressuring the crankcase!

To command the valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for 30 seconds to a minute (MAX of 120 seconds not to damage the ipr). Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow/red switched ground Pin B-

Another option for a tool to close the IPR:
OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester | Multimeters, Amp Clamps, Test Leads

Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ie increase the duty cycle). Close the IPR valve for 30 seconds to a minute (the MAX duration is 2 minutes or it will be permanently damaged -see tool several lines below). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP (since you do not have an STC fitting on the HPOP discharge). Note - when the IPR is commanded closed (with the shop air flowing), you MAY hear a slight "POP" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.

The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, and/or under the oil filter housing area, FOR SURE the high pressure oil pump is bad.

here are some links that might help .........

mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech_3_256klarge.wmv

You may have to copy and paste the link above in your browser or in a command line of you favorite video software.

http://www.nosun.ca/wingnut/051207.PDF

good luck to you.

 

i back probed the wires and across the db-lg to gy-rd i have 0.000 volts. the plug did have a little oil in it when i tok it off.

 

Was someone cranking the truck over while you backprobed the ICP sensor

 

1 checked the ficm tonight and i had 48 volts with the key on and while it was being cranked. good

2 re-checked the icp and had .70 volts. bad..- could a bad sensor give you a false reading (i.e. .70 volts)?

3 will do a pressure check on the high pressure oil system tomorrow.

4 batteries are maintaining 12.9 volts