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c6 problems

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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #1  
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c6 problems

lately i've been having some strange c6 problems. when the truck is cold and I'm driving it for the first time in a while, the truck takes some coaxing to get it into gear. usually i'll shift into reverse it will go and I'll back out of the drive way then i'll shift to drive and nothing will happen sometimes it wont go into reverse either. Usually i have to shift up and down the range a few times and give it alittle gas for it to pop into gear. Driving around there are NO shifting problems once i get going. nothing at all its just when everything is cold
I checked the fluid and its not low but its getting burned up (starting to get black discoloration). I'd also like to note for a while I was loosing trans oil because the gasket didnt seat well but it was a manigale amount. I can tell its still leaking because there is some oil on the pan so i find it strange that my trans oil is full.
I dont know much about transmissions but my first thought is the filter might be clogged or something like that. I'm going to open it up tomorrow but looking for some direction and insight for experience minds. so any ideas guy.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 10:34 AM
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My guess would be that the clutch servo seals are worn. But worth checking the filter screen.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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X2 on the seals. The trans. must of gotten hot a few times, and it harden the seals, and they don't seal well untill the tranny warms up, and they soften abit.


Give it a good flush first ofcourse, and if it doesn't bother you to much, drive like that.


Friend of mine has a 78 F250 C6, and he has to let it idle over 5-10 min for it to even catch any gear. After it's warmed up, she drives like new! He doesn't wanna drop the trans just for that, so hes patient with it in these colder temps.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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so to fix the seals i would have to drop the trans? well that stinks. I guess i'll just replace my leaky gasket, flush it and be patient. I'm planning a bunch of work this summer so i guess i'll do the seals then if it requires dropping the trans
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 02:23 PM
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Yes to do the seals you would have to drop the trans and tear it down.
Maybe drop the pan, clean it and the filter, drain the torque converter and refill with fresh fluid and try an additive in the fluid, might improve things untill you can get working on it.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:38 PM
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how do i drain the TC anyways is it just let it sit for a while or is there a method to it?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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should be a drain plug on the flywheel side.
i had a 65 falcon that had a bad pump seal that caused the same problem when cold. i put 45,000 miles on that car before selling it, and never did fix the trans.
i would go out and start the car, and by the time i came out to go to the shop, i had heat, and the trans would finally go into gear..
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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What TJC says. Remove the dust shield and rotate the flexplate untill the drain bung is at the bottom (bung will be on the engine side of the flexplate).
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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Heres how I always do my flushes, and that's how I did it every single year on the motorhome.







Drop the pan, change filter etc.

Reinstall pan, fill back up to capacity.

Start 'er up and let 'er run for a couple minutes. Shift through all the gears a couple times.

Now get a 5 gallon bucket and a piece of rubber hose.

Disconnect the trans feed line from the radiator (or aux cooler) and shove on the rubber line on that and aim the rubber line in the bucket. Tape the line to the lip of the bucket so it doesn't come out while it's flushing.

(to find the feed line, disconnect both lines to the radiator and start the engine for a second, witch ever line squirts out fluid is your feed line.)

Give a couple shots of compressed air through the radiator (or aux. cooler) to send all the old fluid and crap out of that and back to the transmission.


Put a good funnel on the transmission dipstick tube.


Now prepare at least 10 *OPEN* quarts of ATF ready, at easy hand reach.


Fire the engine up, and start pouring the ATF down the dipstick tube, and don't stop! As much fluid will be coming out as you are putting in.


When the fluid coming out and dumping into the bucket looks as nice and clean as the fluid you are dumping in, stop the engine.

Reconnect the feed line to the radiator (or aux. cooler). Make sure BOTH lines are well connected.

Start up engine and check level. Add as needed. Make sure level is correct.

Go for a good drive, when you get back, check level again and your done!



Simple as that! I do it every single year on my motorhome.

It's a good idea to be 2 people doing this, one sitting in the drivers seat of the vehicle waiting for commands by the person doing the work outside, just incase something happens that you need to turn off the engine quickly. You don't want your transmission to run dry.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 05:11 PM
  #10  
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ok so let me just get it straight pop and drain (drain TC also? at this time) then refill.

shift while running to get stuff flowing.

ect.

while cooler line is off run and drain till the oil is clean.

makes sense if i'm getting it right

about how much oil shouldi have on hand you said ten for the the flush but how much total because you drain and fill it prior to the flush

Thanks alot for the help list tie i did this i just gave a shot in te dark and i'm trying to do it right this time
 
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