Hard Starting
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Colonia, NJ
Hard Starting
Hi...have 2006 F250 6.0 diesel & having problems starting especially in cold weather...live in NJ temps right now high 20's to low 40's.
Last year similar problem & dealer replaced dummy plug after removing turbo valve cover that had blown O ring.
Brother-in-law says it might I need to have battery replaced as I had to jump start after running it down & he says probably no longer has cold cranking power...had replaced 1 battery about 1 1/2 years ago...he says I need to replace both but still not sure if that is problem. water level in batteries was low & added some distilled water to them.
When it does start it runs rough for about 30 seconds sometimes shutting right down & have re-start 2-3 times before it finally catches hold...after that it starts up every time normally...always problem after overnight sit.
before I spend money on battery...any advice..please & thank you.
Eddie
ssetw03@yahoo.com
Last year similar problem & dealer replaced dummy plug after removing turbo valve cover that had blown O ring.
Brother-in-law says it might I need to have battery replaced as I had to jump start after running it down & he says probably no longer has cold cranking power...had replaced 1 battery about 1 1/2 years ago...he says I need to replace both but still not sure if that is problem. water level in batteries was low & added some distilled water to them.
When it does start it runs rough for about 30 seconds sometimes shutting right down & have re-start 2-3 times before it finally catches hold...after that it starts up every time normally...always problem after overnight sit.
before I spend money on battery...any advice..please & thank you.
Eddie
ssetw03@yahoo.com
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 338
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it could be multiple things. if you ever need to jump it then u should replace the batteries. if the batteries or alternator are bad, then the ficm will go bad which i think yours is bad. you shluld buy a scangauge2 to monitor and help diagnose problems. you will need to do a voltage test on the ficm. it should always be around 48v. it needs to be checked with the engine off key on, cranking, and at idle. the alternator should be at 14v, eexcept for whne you starrt it and for 30sec after that, then the alternator kicks in and is at 14v. if your ficm is actually bad, dont take it to ford!!! either send it to Ed at ficmrepair.com or swamps diesel to get the 58v upgraded ficm.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Colonia, NJ
Hi Guys...thank you all of the advice...will have to look into a scanner to check things out..will have to research a little more because Joe you say replace w/58v & Benny says Do not replace with that...different people have different opinions & I need to see what will be best for me...but I DO appreciate any & all advice as being a diesel dummy restricts me...am leaning towards starting with batteries replacement & see what takes place after that.
Thanks Again..
Eddie
Thanks Again..
Eddie
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Hi Guys...thank you all of the advice...will have to look into a scanner to check things out..will have to research a little more because Joe you say replace w/58v & Benny says Do not replace with that...different people have different opinions & I need to see what will be best for me...but I DO appreciate any & all advice as being a diesel dummy restricts me...am leaning towards starting with batteries replacement & see what takes place after that.
Thanks Again..
Eddie
Thanks Again..
Eddie
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
i to have never done the 58v mod and probably wont ever. i have heard good things about it tho. i think Ed is the best and i have never heard one bad thing about him and his rebuilt ficms. also, the swamps modded one costs like $500 when Ed can fix it for under $200 depending on what warranty you want.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 5,406
Likes: 229
From: Pa
I have a 58vlt, and my truck is no different than with the 48vlt, but it get's a little better fuel mileage. I highly recommend Swamp's for either there hd 48vlt or the 58vlt. They are quick to respond, and Jonathan answered all the question's I had for him in a timely manner. after my core, it cost me $450, for the 58vlt ficm.
I hope to never deal with them again (atleast as far as FICM's go), and I dont want to deal with anyone on it again to be honest.
That being said, I would trust other's advice on Swamp's AND the FICM repair guy(Ed?). He has been doin good by other's on here.
I hope to never deal with them again (atleast as far as FICM's go), and I dont want to deal with anyone on it again to be honest.
That being said, I would trust other's advice on Swamp's AND the FICM repair guy(Ed?). He has been doin good by other's on here.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,782
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From: Huntington Indiana
If either battery is over 4 years old replace BOTH as the older battery will draw down the newer battery and give starting problems in cold weather. try this.. plug in the truck overnight. If it starts good then probably not enough cold crank amps to run the glow plug system and the starter. I assume you are waiting completely for the glow plugs to turn off before trying to start.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Colonia, NJ
Thanks BigRedtruck....when it is not as cold out it starts better....starting to believe that is the problem...only had 1 battery replaced about 2 yrs ago...truck is 2006...other one is still original.
Eddie
Eddie
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
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From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I dont like the 58volt mod for a few reasons
1. already said but the injectors were made to handle 48 volts
2. 58 volts makes the FICM HOTTER its in a hot spot already I think the heat is partly to blame for failing ficms anyway
3. 58 volt Ficms tend to die suddenly
where as a 48 volt FICM usually gives you some warning B4 it totaly goes
4. Some repair places dont even offer a 58 volt mod anymore pretty shure ED at ficm repair wont do it So you would have to go thru swamps IIRC
1. already said but the injectors were made to handle 48 volts
2. 58 volts makes the FICM HOTTER its in a hot spot already I think the heat is partly to blame for failing ficms anyway
3. 58 volt Ficms tend to die suddenly
where as a 48 volt FICM usually gives you some warning B4 it totaly goes
4. Some repair places dont even offer a 58 volt mod anymore pretty shure ED at ficm repair wont do it So you would have to go thru swamps IIRC