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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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From: Reddick,Fl.
Return Lines

Ok i just get my return line kit today and found it diff from what on the truck like said about week ago i just get this truck and someone did the driver side but the right side is leaking so want to fix it

So here the problem the 3rd cap from the front of the motor on both sides has 3rd nipple on it and the last cap on right side only has 1 nipple on it and the kit i got don't have them caps. Here where i got my kit from and will this still work.

Oh where 3rd nipples is where my fuel cross over to other side

Pensacola Fuel Injection | Worlds #1 Diesel Rebuilder - FORD 6.9L - 7.3L :: INSTALLATION KITS :: 89-94 7.3L Injector Installation Kit


Sorry if sound stupid but new to the 7.3 idi motor i always been 6.5 chevy guy

thanks for help
Bruce

1994 F-350 7.3 Turbo Auto
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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I've never seen a cap with 3 nipples. The kit you have there will work with your truck.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 04:37 PM
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I'll put few pics in my garage for some reason i can't post them on the thread

Need also know if this right left front return line goes to the top injector pump and last one on left side looks like goes to back tank and for right front goes to top of the fuel housing and the rear on my goes nowhere and the 3rd cap crosses over to left 3rd cap like i said
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 05:35 PM
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The front line on the driver side goes to top of IP. Driver side back line connects to line that returns to tank. Front passenger side line goes to top of fuel filter housing. Passenger side back line dead end. And now thinking back to when I had my '94 IDIT, either the #3 or #5 injector cap will have to have 3 nipples on it cause that is where it crosses over. I think if I remember right the kit I bought didn't have a 3 nipple cap either so I had to use the old one. I think I have pics of when I did my '94, I'll look and post back.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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cant buy the 3 nipple cap easy, thats why ats used a brass tee in their kit.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 05:44 PM
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From: Reddick,Fl.
Originally Posted by LSO1123
The front line on the driver side goes to top of IP. Driver side back line connects to line that returns to tank. Front passenger side line goes to top of fuel filter housing. Passenger side back line dead end. And now thinking back to when I had my '94 IDIT, either the #3 or #5 injector cap will have to have 3 nipples on it cause that is where it crosses over. I think if I remember right the kit I bought didn't have a 3 nipple cap either so I had to use the old one. I think I have pics of when I did my '94, I'll look and post back.

Thanks

Will these caps pop off with just yours hand or do i need get some kind tool to pull off where going have reused two of them. Just don't want to break them
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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They should just POP right off. You can take a flat screw driver and gently pry them up if they are a little stubborn.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 06:28 PM
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Yes, they just pull off by hand. You might have to twist them some or carefully pry on them to get them started moving, but they should come right up.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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Thanks guys i will be tackling this job in the morning will post back how the it went

Oh what the bast way to prime the system after i am done
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 07:55 PM
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Leave your injector lines unhooked from your injectors. Put a rag over each injector. Disconnect the key switch wire from your starter solenoid and run a jumper wire to the post on the solenoid. Touch the jumper wire to your positive battery post and let the engine crank over until you see fuel starting to come out of the injector lines and soak the rags over each injector. Since your ignition will be off during this you'll need to run a jumper wire to your IP to give it power.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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From: Reddick,Fl.
Originally Posted by LSO1123
Leave your injector lines unhooked from your injectors. Put a rag over each injector. Disconnect the key switch wire from your starter solenoid and run a jumper wire to the post on the solenoid. Touch the jumper wire to your positive battery post and let the engine crank over until you see fuel starting to come out of the injector lines and soak the rags over each injector. Since your ignition will be off during this you'll need to run a jumper wire to your IP to give it power.

Thanks for that info

 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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From: Reddick,Fl.
Update

First all thanks for all the input


Well doing the return lines was piece cake took about 1 hr to do. In till i went and put the last injector line on it was cross threaded from last owner so that ended up being my major leak. Thank god it cross threaded the injector and not nut on the line it was easyer to get injector then a line i put 3 pics of it in my garage for some reason can't post pics the the thread


Once again thank for help and infor

Bruce
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
good luck with that Pensacola kit Bruce.nothing but leaks from either their caps or hose.i switched to the Delphi from amazon and she's been trouble free.
Russ (typefour who posted once above) sells good quality kits too.
just in case (most likely) you run into fuel leaks and want to solve it for good next time.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
good luck with that Pensacola kit Bruce.nothing but leaks from either their caps or hose.i switched to the Delphi from amazon and she's been trouble free.
Russ (typefour who posted once above) sells good quality kits too.
just in case (most likely) you run into fuel leaks and want to solve it for good next time.


Thanks for the info at lease i'll should be able get the truck home and then get better kit
 
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