1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

P0344 and P0603

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  #31  
Old 02-05-2012, 08:09 PM
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Ohming the injector tests the electrical side of things. If it's dumping oil, it doesn't have anything to do with the electrical side (solenoid). If the oil is bubbling up from around where the injector seats in the head, then it's an o-ring issue, but I suspect you've already determined that's not the problem.

If it's dumping way too much oil out the discharge port, then you've got internal problems and it's time to get it rebuilt. The knocking noise is probably being caused by the injector pissing oil not firing the fuel properly. Fuel issues can sound like a rod knock in the 7.3

Now to back track a little, did you ever get a Ford or IH CPS to replace the one from the parts store? Any more codes show up (besides the P0603 that is standard when you have any chip or tuner)?
 
  #32  
Old 02-06-2012, 12:06 AM
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Honestly, this weekend is the first chance I have had to do anything with it since the whole thing started so I haven't replaced the sensor with an OEM one, yet. I did come to the conclusion like you mentioned about dumping oil out the port and it being internal. I think I am just going to pull the other 7 and take the money out of the household budget to send them out for a stage 1 rebuild. On the brightside, this has been a lot easier than I suspected it would be.

-Joseph
 
  #33  
Old 02-14-2012, 12:09 PM
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So I have been chatting back and forth with DZL JIM and he suspects that the Poppet valve is wearing into it's seat in the injector and it would cost more to fix than buy a good core (Define Irony: Buying a bad part in better condition). I have posted in the WTB section but I also thought I would throw it in this thread to in case anyone has an AA injector core they are willing to part with. Thanks guys.

-Joseph
 
  #34  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:46 PM
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  #35  
Old 02-14-2012, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch Semi
So I have been chatting back and forth with DZL JIM and he suspects that the Poppet valve is wearing into it's seat in the injector and it would cost more to fix than buy a good core (Define Irony: Buying a bad part in better condition).
Remember this. It's not too often you run across vendors who will tell you a cheaper way to get buy than buying a product from them. When things are different and you're ready to get your injectors rebuilt, be sure to get back with Jim and reward him with your business for being such a stand up guy.
 
  #36  
Old 02-15-2012, 01:44 AM
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^----- Pretty much goes without saying, but I can appreciate the attention given to my integrity. If I can't find a core cheap enough, I am just going to pay the extra coin to Jim to fix the one I have. I'm lazy and will have the extra money, he rebuilds injectors and likes money, seems like a win-win.

-Joseph
 
  #37  
Old 02-15-2012, 08:01 AM
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IMO if your gonna spend the cash have all 8 built
 
  #38  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:20 AM
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The plan is to send them all out for stage 1's. The issue is that the valve seat is junk and that is extra $$ to fix. Jim said around $75 but without having seen it, I wouldn't neccessairly hold him to that. He recommended finding a more viable core. Unfortunately I haven't found any that are priced within reason. That is why I may just have Jim do the repair and not worry about it. If the weather holds this weekend I am going to pull the rest of thenm and start preparing them to ship.

-Joseph
 
  #39  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:55 AM
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I had an offer from a fellow fte brother for a set of injectors out of a 96 that had like 170k miles on it. Good core set IMHO.
He wanted $350 shipped. I didnt take him up on it cuz at the time I didnt even have an IC or HPOP or chip...so injectors were a ways away.
Ill see if i still have the PM or link to thread..
 
  #40  
Old 02-19-2012, 02:30 PM
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So I got all the injectors out. First off, it took as long to get the VC's off as it did pull all the injectors and glow plugs. After I had them all out and wiped down, lined up in a row, here is what I found. As I mentioned before, I had one that has some internal issue with the poppet valve. The injector on the same bank directly behind it had a broken bottom ORING, and the bottom part of the injector was blackened heavily. I would say those are my culprits for running bad and smoking a lot. I don't know what the guy I bought this truck from did, but there were some funky things. For example, there was atleast one bolt missing from each VC. Also, on one injector, the lower bolt that goes through the collar was just a hair more than finger tight. The last oddity I found was that one of the glow plugs were mismatched. There were 7 Autolites that ohmed good, and a Beru the is junk. I am guessing the Beru is the oldest but who knows. I liked the truck a lot when it seemed to be running well by my standards, I can't wait to see how it runs with these things taken care of. I bet it starts a little better having good GP's and injectors, maybe even a small mileage gain? This week will be the call to DZL Jim about getting the work done.

-Joseph
 
  #41  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:49 PM
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**Update**
Let me start by thanking Dzl Jim for unbelievably quick service. I sent him my injectors on a Tuesday and received them on Saturday. I hadn't even thought about them when he called to let me know they wered done, so thanks Jim.

Having said that, I have installed them (and new Beru GP's) and have a couple follow up questions. It took the standard "OMG is something else wrong because I have been cranking this forever and it hasn't started yet" amount of time and did finally go. Then is smoked and smoked and smoked, and then smoked less and less and now it doesn't smoke at idle, however, it still smokes (burning oil) under throttle.

I haven't driven it yet, so the only run time it has had is in the driveway, but it seems like at 1700-ish RPM's it misses if you try and hold it at that RPM. I can blip the throttle passed 1700 and it is fine, but holding it right there it misses. Is this from the air not being worked all the way out of the oil or maybe something else? Also, it still takes a ridiculous amount of time of cranking to start. Do you think I have an issue or just maybe some air in the oil yet and maybe still some oil working out of cylinders? Thanks

-Joseph
 
  #42  
Old 04-09-2012, 05:51 AM
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It can take up to 200 miles of driving to work the air out. It did for me. Some take less, but can take that long. If you take it out and drive it like you stole it for a bit that will help work the air out. I say get that done first then see where you are at.
 
  #43  
Old 04-09-2012, 11:24 PM
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Drive like stolen.. Check. Still hiccups but I will continue driving a while before I get to concerned.

Holy crap, BTW! The difference was insane going from faulty stock injectors to Stage 1 injectors. On the tow setting of my programmer, which is the lowest setting, the thing spools up quicker and pulls a hell of a lot harder (and I was happy enough with it stock). Night and day difference. I can't see getting decent fuel mileage in it any time soon, too much romping on it no doubt. This is the first expensive/did-it-myself mod I have ever done, so it feels a little bit sweeter than most. Now I just hope that the hiccups are caused from air working its way out. I will keep ya'll posted. Thanks again DZL Jim for your great work and everybody else who has weighed in on this thread.
 
  #44  
Old 04-10-2012, 05:45 AM
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FYI, if your auto trans is stock, those stage ones can really put it to the test and beyond what it can handle. Hence, me driving like an old man. Mine works just fine yet, but I know if I drove it harder it would already be needing fixed. Remember these autos are basically at their limit when the truck is stock...

It's like a different truck though, ain't it?
 
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