Finally out! :)
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
Finally out! :)
well i finally got my engine out of my truck this was done last Thursday haven't been able to let you guys know
well i finally settled down, thought long and researched and read and researched some more and i finally know what I'm gonna to it
Offy intake
holley 600cfm
hedman headers
bored 30. over Sealed Power piston, hypereutectic, H519P30
crower cam 19212
crower spring kit
cloyes timing gears
P&P the head, 3 angle valve job
arp rocker arm studs
shave the head .20
6puc sprung clutch from clutchnet
nothing to extreme but i think it will satisfy me
now for the pictures!!
finally on the engine stand
now i gotta find a good machine shop around these parts!
well i finally settled down, thought long and researched and read and researched some more and i finally know what I'm gonna to it
Offy intake
holley 600cfm
hedman headers
bored 30. over Sealed Power piston, hypereutectic, H519P30
crower cam 19212
crower spring kit
cloyes timing gears
P&P the head, 3 angle valve job
arp rocker arm studs
shave the head .20
6puc sprung clutch from clutchnet
nothing to extreme but i think it will satisfy me
now for the pictures!!
finally on the engine stand
now i gotta find a good machine shop around these parts!
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
Well done buddy! Feels good to have it out and clear of the vehicle, doesn't it?
Sounds like a good list you have there. Who knows, it may be different because you're build is more radical than either of mine, but between the two Holley 600s I have, I like the 1850 model better. The 80457 seems to get lower gas mileage, and run leaner in more spots. For what it's worth.
Sounds like a good list you have there. Who knows, it may be different because you're build is more radical than either of mine, but between the two Holley 600s I have, I like the 1850 model better. The 80457 seems to get lower gas mileage, and run leaner in more spots. For what it's worth.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
Well done buddy! Feels good to have it out and clear of the vehicle, doesn't it?
Sounds like a good list you have there. Who knows, it may be different because you're build is more radical than either of mine, but between the two Holley 600s I have, I like the 1850 model better. The 80457 seems to get lower gas mileage, and run leaner in more spots. For what it's worth.
Sounds like a good list you have there. Who knows, it may be different because you're build is more radical than either of mine, but between the two Holley 600s I have, I like the 1850 model better. The 80457 seems to get lower gas mileage, and run leaner in more spots. For what it's worth.
Thanks AB!!!! Oh man does it!!!! Ive been itching for this day to come dude! its just sitting in my garage i love just looking at it. The tear down happens this Monday, since I'm on vacation for the week so i should get alot done by then.
My old man was helping me and my girlfriends brothers so it was just a good day overall!
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
One thing I highly stress, when you get your cam/lifters. Bring your lifters to a reputable shop and have them inspect them. Or, at least, make sure that every lifter is raised on the bottom (convex). If they're not, they'll eat your cam up, send metal through the engine, and ruin it.
It happened to me after a lot of hard work. That engine's still sitting in my garage after I pulled it out, and had hundreds of dollars right down the drain.
Not to scare you. Just a forewarning to be sure everything goes smoothly.
It happened to me after a lot of hard work. That engine's still sitting in my garage after I pulled it out, and had hundreds of dollars right down the drain.
Not to scare you. Just a forewarning to be sure everything goes smoothly.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
Thanks for the warning dude! Ill be sure to have the machinist (when i find a good one) too look at them!
the holley 600 carb i have for this project i only seen once( my gf brother has it at his house getting rebuilt) its a manual choke one i wanna convert it over to electric just because the old 1bbl carb was electric choke.
the holley 600 carb i have for this project i only seen once( my gf brother has it at his house getting rebuilt) its a manual choke one i wanna convert it over to electric just because the old 1bbl carb was electric choke.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 924
Likes: 1
yes i think that's what im going to end up doing because i wanna drive at least almost every day that i possibly could while i have it running! then for the winter it would go away!
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 636
Likes: 0
From: Portage Twp, PA
I'm just throwing this out as food for thought...I'd thoroughly inspect your cylinders for any scratches or out-of-round issues before I'd get the .030" overbore. There are a few reasons...last I knew (which was about 16 years ago) it was $10/cylinder for boring. So you might be able to save some money there, plus you can reuse your existing pistons if you want. Gonna be picking up some compression if you take 20 thou off your head anyway. Second, if there's a scratch that a .010" overbore can remove, there will be more meat left if there's another rebuild down the road. Third, there's no real performance to be had with an extra 4.4 cubic inches and MAYBE a tenth of a point of compression with the .030" overbore.
I know guys think it sounds cool to say they had their engine bored, but it should just be a means of straightening up cylinder walls if they need it. Not to mention the maybe two horsepower you might gain isn't worth $60 or $80, IMO! =)
Remember, just my 2¢...good luck!
Pat
I know guys think it sounds cool to say they had their engine bored, but it should just be a means of straightening up cylinder walls if they need it. Not to mention the maybe two horsepower you might gain isn't worth $60 or $80, IMO! =)
Remember, just my 2¢...good luck!
Pat
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
What Pat said. Only bore and mill as much as is necessary to clean up and true the bores and surfaces. If you want a bump in compression have the chambers cc'd and only mill as much as needed to arrive at your target CR.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
There is no way of knowing that without having the chambers cc'd (measured)...something best done by your machinist and then CR can be projected by the machinist when factoring in milling of the head and block, gasket thickness, etc. It's not something as simple as knocking some off the block, some off the head and thinking one will end up with X compression ratio. Best probably to specify to the machinist what your target CR is and let him handle it from there.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,949
Likes: 6
From: Earth
If you have the rods bushed you can use 351w pistons and there are many, many more options in terms of compression height and dish size.
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