Stumbled upon this sight and liked it a bit more than ford truck fanatics, mostly due to about 500x more users! But anyways, here it is:
So i came across this truck on craigslist when i was trying to sell my 4runner. Ended up selling that to a friend and we drove up to flagstaff, az to test drive this truck. Once i saw how clean it was and how well it drove, i didnt hesitate about the price, they were asking 1900 but i showed them $1700 cash and drove it home. Before i left i talked to the old man and he told me to drive over to the barn before i left, and he loaded up a extra set of wheels, fenders, and two tube/winch bumpers.. I got a steal in my eyes. Drove flawlessly for about 1 month, than i started to have some electrical issues, turned out to be a worn out voltage regulator and the brake pedal not returning all the way these were easy fixes. Was running great until i had some oil pressure issues and it went down hill really quick after i replaced the oil pump which led to $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ spent at summit racing, which i will get to later in this first post.

Up to this date i have replaced the following:


New parts:
Alternator(NAPA)
Battery(NAPA)
Starter(NAPA)
Starter Silinoid(NAPA)
Water Pump(NAPA)
Voltage Regulator(NAPA PREMIUM)
Ignition Coil(NAPA PREMIUM)
Plug Wires(NAPA PREMIUM)
Thermostat(NAPA PREMIUM)
Carb Rebuilt(NAPA KIT)
Wheel Cylinders
Shoes + Pads and rotors resurfaced.
Floor Pan
Radiator Overflow
Thermostat
Spark Plugs
Air Filter
Coolant Flush
Custom Autosounds Retro Style Radio
Re-upolstered Seat.
Exhaust 2.5 inch and a glass pack
4 kicker speakers
bought 4 legit KC lights for 30 bucks off a good friend ad well!




Now this was all running great until i had oil pressure issues, and major top end noice and its been taking 2-3 even 5 minutes to build oil pressure. so before i threw a rod i choose to stop driving it. So i now have a legit excuse to spend some $$$ at summit racing


Here is what i have got on the way:

Offenhauser intake mani
Edelbrock 500cfm carb
Comp Cams 268 Cam Kit Cam, lifters, valve springs, timing gears etc.
Comp Cams Rocker Arms
Break Master Cyllinder/booster thingy
Bushing kit
Headers
Battery
Mini Starter
Flexplate
Clutch Kit
ARP headstuds

getting the rebuild kit through a local machine shop with just the parts i need.

Will be posting more as i tear into it in the next few weeks. plan on repainting the engine bay as well.


As she is:


<a href="http://s1191.photobucket.com/albums/z463/kulchecj/?action=view&amp;current=rotate0418111809.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z463/kulchecj/rotate0418111809.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>







And engine time!













Block is currently at a local performance shop in Sedona, AZ. I am going .020 overbore so incase i need to rebuild down the road, i can keep the original block that came with the truck, just somethin weird about me i want to have the original.

Currently waiting on the rebuild kit to come in, along with the starter flywheel and clutch setup. Will be posting more pictures once things get delivered and things start to go together.


ONE THING I WOULD LIKE TO GET OPINIONS ON:

Break in procedure. I will be running the 268h comp cam, and like a idiot i didnt mark where the distributor was set before i took it off. so im kinda freeking out about timing.

 

Welcome to the forum, that's a real nice truck.

 

Hello there. Nice truck. It looks like a nice project. Make sure your shop magnafluxes block, crank, and rods. Have the bottom end balanced if you're going to keep it. Cost is minimal.

1. Cam co's will require a certain psi on the valve springs with certain cams. Ck with Comp, and make SURE your shop tests them and installs at required height.

2. With that cam, if you want the engine to come alive, then I would invest ca. $400 and have the head ported. Open up the bottle neck. Polish the chambers, clean the bowls and runners.

3. Have your shop remove the oem press in rocker studs, and install ARP screw ins.

4. Make sure your shop knows you plan on using the head studs, as opposed to head bolts, and that they bore the block with the 2" thick plate on top, or else you could cause your rings to not seat correctly. If the shop doesn't know about that, find another shop!!

5. Before you install those lifters, go online goggle 'comp cams lifter complaints.'

6. Consider decking the block/and/or the head to bump compression ratio/hp. If you want to stay on cheap gas, then stay in the low 9's to 1 cr.

7. Use studs for the intake/headers. Grind half of the oem thick washers down 1/16", with crimp nuts. Torque to spec in sequence. Heat, cool, retorque twice.

8. Use Mr. Gasket #260 int/exh. gasket only!!

9. If you bump the c.r., only use the Felpro $60 h.p. gasket.

IMO using the head studs is a waste of $$.

Good luck.



PM me if you need one for the intake bottom.

 

Well, today we finish painting the engine bay... Only hold up we got is the rebuild kit, should be here tomorrow and we gotta run the pistons to the machine shop.

 

How much did the girl cost??

 

truck or parts? lol paid 1700 for the truck, parts for this build are running about 3000 in recipts so far plus what ever else i run into

 

I meant the girl in the passenger seat. lol

Good looking truck. The 300 is a truck engine, you'll like it the more you drive it.

 

oh lmao i forgot she was in that pic. she costs me thousands in the longrun every dollar i spend on a toy i gotta spend one on her... or think about it

 

Done except just waiting on the DUI distributor, core support and mean while im drivin the hell outta her!