I have all the tools I need (rented a bunch of stuff from Autozone today), and I will be starting the project tomorrow. I may end up running back into town in the morning to find a nut that will thread over the ball joint studs. I don't believe the castle nut is sufficiently strong from the abuse of pounding on it.

I like the grease-on-the-fork idea. I'll try that. The autoparts guy said to orientate the fork so that the sloped side is against the boot. Still not sure about that one.

 

This is stupid. Why does just about everything on this truck have to give me such a hard time?!

I've been fighting it all day and into the evening. I finally got the steering nuckle off of the driver's side, punched the camber bushing out (needed heat from the torch and pounding to get it), and now I'm trying to replace the ball joints. I realized after the boots were tore to heck that it just wasn't worth it to glue it back together. Now I'm fighting the lower ball joint (installation). Stupid thing seems too big and doesn't want to go all the way into the hole. I've sanded both surfaces. I'm using an OEM ball joint press. Still no deal.

I like this truck, but the headaches it's giving me with difficult repairs is almost too much! These repairs aren't rocket science, yet very little is coming along without an absolute fight!!

 

I've never used a ball joint press, like you I sand the hole clean and smooth then drive them into place. Never seen one of them c clamp style presses as a big "plus" for the task.

I have one air chisel chisel and medium size "hand" chisel, modified both of them just for that task. I ground the cutting edge away until its a flat surface about 1/4 wide so they "drive" without damage rather then cut as intended.
Start em and get em in most the way with the one for the air chisel, till it can no longer move them. Then finish the job with a large hammer and "hand" chisel, has never failed me yet.

 

Is the bj going in straight? You need a pretty stout impact wrech on the press. get it as tight as you can, then smack the knuckle on the side where the bj is being pressed in, tighten more, repeat. Better yet, hammer and impact at the same time if you can.

 

I'm sorry for the mis understanding on my direction. I was afraid of that being an issue as it usually is with my explanations. I can show or even draw better than explain something. It sounds like you got the idea though. Sorry your ball joints aren't coming out. I haven't done tons of them but I can say that they are time consuming. Never had too much trouble with a good ball joint press and an impact. You might have a stubborn truck there. Well, keep at it. As for the hammer thing, I didn't recommend to hit one hammer with another, a mis understanding. One more thing, the method I recommend is recommended by Randy Lyman, possibly the most experienced axle guy in the world. As for hitting one hammer with another to break the sockets loose, Also recommended by Randy Lyman. I am not suggesting to do this ever, I have never seen anything bad happen, but given the circumstances, it could and it might not be pretty if it did.


PS Randy Lyman is the sole proprietor of Randy's Ring and Pinion
I didn't understand why Randy recommends this, all his other tips are sain and rational, maybe that day he was having some altering influences, im not sure. I guess my idea wasn't the answer here so we will move on.

 

FWIW it takes a lot of force to remove and install these ball joints. I bent two mid-grade ball joint presses doing mine. I used a 3' long 1/2" drive Matco ratchet on the screw to get enough torque. I used some moly lube on the new joints to aid in installation. Can also put them in the freezer like a bearing before installing.

 

Yes I agree. They are strong and durable. I used anti-sieze. The freezer trick works well too. I have access to tools and presses from a heavy truck mechanic and a local 4x4 and off road/fab/ diesel shop. I agree that the lighter tools and shortage of tools can make this one heck of a project.

 

Thanks for the comments, guys. I didn't get much work in today, but I did get that lower BJ to finall get in there and seat. I ended up sanding out enough material to make it work.

I tried the dual hammer trick (not on top of each other). The biggest factor into why I don't think it did much for me was that I was alone (had to hold both hammers at the same time) and had a limited range of motion. I did try it, however. Those BJ's needed the fork to come undone. I'm doing u-joints while I'm at it. I starting disassembly of the driver's side u-joint earlier this evening, and it was a pain, as well. Probably took me close to 15-20 minutes JUST to remove the four c-clips. They were rusted on there that bad. That's what I'm dealing with on this rig. Very little is coming apart without a FIGHT. Tomorrow will be another full day working on it.

PS. I forgot about the freezer trick. That's a good, and I'll try it next time.

 

ball joints and front wheel u-joints is just an outright miserable job.a torch and a big hammer sure are handy lol.good luck man.it sucks doing all this,but in the end, once you get her lined back up,your going to very happy with all the work.she'll drive like a new one again.keep at it!

 

Thanks! I've got the big hammer(s), and the torch and borrowing from a friend.