Remove steering nuckle without damaging ball joints?
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Remove steering nuckle without damaging ball joints?
I need to change out the camber bushing on my '95 f150 4x4, and the ball joints are all good. Just wondering if there is a way that I have overlooked to get the nuckle off without damaging the boots of the BJ's? I suspect I'll damage the upper ones no matter what, but if I could spare the lowers, I would.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Buy or rent a puller to remove them, no need remove knuckle.
Example,
http://www.amazon.com/Ingalls-Caster.../dp/B0058U8EZU
Example,
http://www.amazon.com/Ingalls-Caster.../dp/B0058U8EZU
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Senior User
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Good idea, but it seems that there probably isn't enough "bite" material left on one of them (driver's side) to get a puller of any kind on it. I did check around at the local auto parts stores, and they don't carry that item.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Enough left of it sticking up get a good bite on with a monkey wrench, section of pipe on the handle if need be? Make it turn it breaking it loose maybe?
Put the nut down on the ball joint upside down until flush with top, give it a couple good square/solid wackes with hammer pop the joint itself loose from the adjuster. Do that first, then attempt turn adjuster.
Put the nut down on the ball joint upside down until flush with top, give it a couple good square/solid wackes with hammer pop the joint itself loose from the adjuster. Do that first, then attempt turn adjuster.
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Well, I appreciate the ideas, but I've pretty much given up on trying to get them out the "easy" way. I've had the truck into two alignment shops who couldn't budge them either.
I haven't tried the pipe wrench idea, though. I assume that's what you meant by "monkey wrench".
I haven't tried the pipe wrench idea, though. I assume that's what you meant by "monkey wrench".
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: starship enterprise
I have broken stubborn sockets loose with 2 hammers. put one up against the side and just hold it there. Don't swing this hammer. Gat another hammer and hit the casting opposite from the stationary hammer. This keeps the "shock" from the hammer blow in the casting rather than transferring the energy out the other side. I hope this makes sense. I have seen many tie rods and ball joints broke loose this way, and i have run across very few "mechanics" that use this method. If this makes sense, give it 4 or 5 good blows then switch sides with the hammers. Give it 4 to 5 more good blows and hope for the best. This shouldn't damage the ball joints and it has worked for me in a pinch a few times.
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I have broken stubborn sockets loose with 2 hammers. put one up against the side and just hold it there. Don't swing this hammer. Gat another hammer and hit the casting opposite from the stationary hammer. This keeps the "shock" from the hammer blow in the casting rather than transferring the energy out the other side. I hope this makes sense. I have seen many tie rods and ball joints broke loose this way, and i have run across very few "mechanics" that use this method. If this makes sense, give it 4 or 5 good blows then switch sides with the hammers. Give it 4 to 5 more good blows and hope for the best. This shouldn't damage the ball joints and it has worked for me in a pinch a few times.
Never tried that. Are you suggesting this as a means to get those pesky bushings out (which a heavy duty air hammer couldn't) or would this be to try to shock the ball joints into coming loose out of their sockets, which would in turn hopefully lesson the amount of damage the pickle fork would create on the BG boots?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Yea I've done it that way and mostly on tie rods, they are small enough. Doesn't usually work on truck ball joints as the mass is just to great. Not saying it can't or won't just not as likely to do so.
Don't use a second hammer either as it act as an anvil absorbing the bulk of the shock itself in the process, want full shock/impact working for ya.
Want it to deform the the beveled hole split second when hit hard with a hammer, flatten it pushing one side in toward center line of pin, when springs back to shape beveled rod of the joint in question "pops" loose of its grip. Only reason it can and does work is the fact its a beveled fit.
And yea monkey wrench/pipe wrench same thing, around these parts anyway.
Don't use a second hammer either as it act as an anvil absorbing the bulk of the shock itself in the process, want full shock/impact working for ya.
Want it to deform the the beveled hole split second when hit hard with a hammer, flatten it pushing one side in toward center line of pin, when springs back to shape beveled rod of the joint in question "pops" loose of its grip. Only reason it can and does work is the fact its a beveled fit.
And yea monkey wrench/pipe wrench same thing, around these parts anyway.
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Cargo Master
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From: starship enterprise
I have SEEN this work before. you DO benefit from having a second hammer. Yes, it does act as an anvil, but think of a nail into a 6 inch piece of 2x4. If nothing is backing it the board goes all over the place and the nail never goes in, give it a solid backer, the nail goes right in. I am not suggesting this as the ultimate solution, but it is worth trying. This isn't for the bushing but to remove the knuckle from the housing without damage to the ball joint. as for the bushing, I have not ran into problems removing them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
I have SEEN this work before. you DO benefit from having a second hammer. Yes, it does act as an anvil, but think of a nail into a 6 inch piece of 2x4. If nothing is backing it the board goes all over the place and the nail never goes in, give it a solid backer, the nail goes right in. I am not suggesting this as the ultimate solution, but it is worth trying. This isn't for the bushing but to remove the knuckle from the housing without damage to the ball joint. as for the bushing, I have not ran into problems removing them.
Anyway yea backing it up with a large hammer, used that way would help as it would act as anvil and help rather then suck up all the energy if was used between the two as I originally misread you to be saying.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
I was able to pop my knuckles out with hand tools- a pickle fork hammered into the lower, and a few sharp hits to the knuckle itself (with the upper ball joint nut attached). So long as you don't beat on the ball joint itself, it will be fine. IIRC replacement boots are available in the event one gets torn. I've separated numerous ball joints on various vehicles for axle replacements, struts, wheel bearings, etc and haven't damaged any. They're fairly tough.
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I was able to pop my knuckles out with hand tools- a pickle fork hammered into the lower, and a few sharp hits to the knuckle itself (with the upper ball joint nut attached). So long as you don't beat on the ball joint itself, it will be fine. IIRC replacement boots are available in the event one gets torn. I've separated numerous ball joints on various vehicles for axle replacements, struts, wheel bearings, etc and haven't damaged any. They're fairly tough.
Ok, that's great to know. I had no idea that I could maybe get a replacement boot. I'll look into that. Have you found that the pickle fork into the lower ball joint is more productive than having it into the upper one? I haven't done this before. Also, maybe the flat part of the fork should ride against the boot?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Hartland, WI
I simply chose the lower because it was easier to access and farther away from body panels in the event of an errant swing. Since I was replacing my ball joints I flipped the upper nut over and gave it a few hits, however I hit the knuckle itself the majority of the time. I didn't really pay attention to how I had the fork oriented, however it may be a wise idea to use it so that it minimizes damage. I'd even go so far as to apply some grease or other lubricant to it so it doesn't snag the boot.