thanks for the info! I am looking into adding cab lights pretty soon to my 88, out of curiosity what is so bad about the LMC truck kit? I just noticed them in the catalog. It was my plan B on using the LMC ones. My brother had a 94 F150 with a blown tranny that had the cab lights from the factory. So I was planning on pulling that set up, along with tons of other goodies, but he scrapped the truck before I could talk him out of it. Wasn't too happy with him about that one.

 

1st off. LMC(Likely Made in China) buys the cheapest crap they can sell

2nd, they have you use one of the mounting screws as a ground to save a whole 12' of #14 wires

And they lights are CRAP

 

I just got done installing mine. I did them a little different than this.
I found a stock wiring harness for free. I looked at it and gave it to a guy on craigslist. Not that the stock one is bad, I just had an easier way of going about it than this write up.
I bought a set from Pacer. It was a little more expensive than your harbor freight set, but I liked the quality and it was cheaper then getting 5 markers straight from Ford. It also came with all of the screws, gaskets, bulbs (incandescent and LED's) and pigtails(194) that I needed. The only thing that I needed to buy was wire (I all ready had that and the length that they gave me in the set i wasn't sure was going to be long enough) and RTV silicone. All said and done I think I was in for 50.00, with left over wire and silicone.

In stead of fishing the wire through the entire glass support I drilled my wire hole through it. I used a 5/8 drill bit. I could have used a 1/8, but it was easier just to make it a little bigger so there was room for the wire to wiggle. After I drilled the wholes for the wire (measuring and all of that good stuff) I ground off the burs on the inside of the cab so the wire would not get cut on them. I see no reason why this would compromise the structural integrity of the support.

I ran one power wire for the whole set and tapped into the main wire for each. I then taped the tap up to the roof back far enough so when I put the liner up you could not see that taps. If you go just forward of the padding, there is enough space to to easily hide them. I butt connected the power wire to the pig tail on the passenger sire kick panel. The power is the brown wire (it could have been purple, the lighting was kind of bad.) The ground is black. I made sure to use a test light to verify which was which.

I then installed the markers. I put silicone on the bottom of the marker (although the gasket looked like a good seal, better safe then sorry,) the screws and also on the inside where the wire ran through for added protection.

All said and done, it took me about 2 hours. with some dickering around with friends in between.

 

Added the cab lights back in 89 on my 88... Planning to put them on the 91 I just got... This time I'll do it right- I inadvertently made a hard chevron, rather than a curved one... So, if I ever find my old truck, I'll know it because of the layout of the lights! One side note, not sure if anyone mentioned it(haven't read the whole thread)- the older Ford trucks(up through the 90s anyway) were EVENLY spaced- not three tight in the middle with one spaced far on each corner, like the big rigs... GM & Dodge used that pattern: Ford used even spacing... Now I see Fords with the 1-3-1 pattern...

Scott

 

Ford still uses the even spaced pattern right up to current production(2015)

 

Ok- I keep seeing Fords with the 1-3-1 pattern lately. Made me wonder why they changed. Maybe it is just people adding them who don't know the traditional positioning...

Scott

 

They also have it so you can get the 3 in one sealed unit. Doesn't look so great.

 

Scott, Ford still uses even spacing. Those were probably aftermarket additions.

 

Good write up...

The OEM's on my F350 are leaky and water has wrinkled up the headliner a bit. I did a quick caulk job on 'em last fall… I want to replace the factory lights with some bullet lights like I had on my last Peterbilt then find a good used Lund visor to install.

 

Are factory lights installed in a straight line, or do they follow the slight curvature of the top of the windshield?

 

They follow the curve at the top of the windshield...

Scott

 

Did you read this thread?

 

Does anyone know or have a link to where to get a new cab light harness? Im all about picking through the junkyard but used wiring isn't something I've had much luck with

 

I saw some harnesses on e-bay recently, for around $20 or so...

Scott

 

Yes. I saw that you did yours following the curvature of the windshield, but didn't know if you followed factory specs or placed them to your specific taste.