OK I have a 95 f250 HD 4x4 Dana 50 TTB. WILL BE USED AS A PLOW TRUCK

What I have done to the front end so far.
1.New Ball Joints
2.New wheel bearings and races
3.New seals. Hub and axle seal by tire u-joint
4.New u-joints
5.New rotors and Brakes Pads
6.New tie-rods and the linkages
7.New shocks all the way around
8.Will be getting new tires

Now I need to take in to get an alignment. The question I have is as of right now the truck when driven FORWARD THE TIRES BOW OUT LIKE THIS / \. AND WHEN IN REVERSE THEY BOW IN LIKE THIS \ /. iT IS VERY SERVERE THE BOWING. Now when I get the alignment finished there should be little to no bowing in either direction. Is this true??

Question 2> should I have the alignment shop drive it forword and reverse and EYEBALL THE BOWING AFTER THERE DONE TO SEE IF THERE IS EXCESSIVE BOWING IN EITHER DIRECTION???? THIS WOULD BE A TOW IN AND OUT PROBLEM CORRECT???

Question 3> If there is excessive bowing is it time for TIMRBREN ON THE FRONT TO HELP WITH LOAD, AND BOWING.

Question 4> When doing an alignment on these trucks does it have to do with the RIDE HEIGHT BEING A CERTAIN HEIGHT TO GET A CORRECT ALIGNMENT????


Any other things I should know before I go get an alignment so I CAN HELP THE TIRE DISCOUNTER GUYS OUT WHEN DOING THIS ALIGNMENT BECAUSE I KNOW IT ONE OF THE HARDER ONES TO DO.

THANKS RJ

 

Suffering a toe out condition as it sits now.

No need have shop drive back and forth.

To "TIMRBREN" or not depends on condition of springs.

As for ride height you'd actually want it aligned with the plow on it. As it will change with/without its weight. If you do that then need it reset when driving it remainder of year without plow blade on it.

Myself I set toe with a tape measure, you should least do so until you get new tires on it and an alignment. Need new tires on it to get it aligned properly, you do not want them going by used/worn tires.

After any change IE; ball joints or tie rod end replacement I set em to 1/8" toed "in" with a tape measure and suffer no excessive tire wear, however I know my caster/camber is close enough too.

I have slight amount of positive camber with plow blade "on" (helper springs added) and the caster/toe combination has to be very near spot on as I can let go of the wheel and the truck will track straight down the lane (blade straight) for quite a distance before requiring any kinda minor correction. IE; does not want to wonder left or right unguided and is not effected by crown of road surface.

I also run a back blade, its weight hanging off the rear bumper helps counter weight of front blade. Lessens need for alignment blade on blade off conditions. In my case its blades on blades off but you get the idea.

 

check your spring bushings, the center pivot bushings, and most important, the shackle bushings inside the frame. if the bushings are worn out you will never align the front end.