Hydroflame Question

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Dec 7, 2011 | 07:02 AM

mudfuel06

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From: Chiefland, Fl

Hydroflame Question

Does anybody have experience with a HydroFlame furnance? The blower motor will work, but it won't light. It's getting gas to the line, but the valve doesn't open. I'm thinking it could either be the sail switch, the relay or the board. Also, the ignitor doesn't even try to spark. Any suggestions?

Dec 7, 2011 | 07:32 AM

BPofMD

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From: Millersville, MD

Have you cleaned the flame tube.... this is the tube where the pilot light is. If you have used it for a while, spiders LOVE to build their webs in there. A pipe cleaner is a GREAT tool for this!

Dec 14, 2011 | 08:02 PM

RV_Tech

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From: Bristol, TN.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudfuel06

Hydroflames are easy. Since you do not have any attempt at ignition, you can have an open sail, an open high limit, or a bad board. The sequence is the motor spools up to speed and closes the sail which in turn feeds through the high limit to the board. Trace to the sail and through the sail with everything connected and see if you have power from that lead to the board. If you do, you know the sail and limit are good and it is the board. If you do not, it is the sail or the limit. I would bet on the board being bad, but can simply pull it and any dealer or service center can test the board for you in a minute or two. Do not replace it without testing it.

Steve

Dec 15, 2011 | 07:22 AM

mudfuel06

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From: Chiefland, Fl

Thanks Steve, if you ever get down to Florida, I owe you a couple of rounds and a meal! I'm going to check those this weekend, do they all run on 12V or do I need to get a house meter to check it?

Dec 15, 2011 | 07:44 AM

RV_Tech

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From: Bristol, TN.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudfuel06

Thanks Steve, if you ever get down to Florida, I owe you a couple of rounds and a meal! I'm going to check those this weekend, do they all run on 12V or do I need to get a house meter to check it?

Everything you are checking is 12-volts and you should be using a meter to check voltage. The furnace will continue to work down to 10 VDC than things start to get erratic.

Sometimes all you have to do is pull the clip on the board, blow on it hard with your mouth to get the dust out of the clip and you are good to go. The high limit on Hydroflames is a weakness, but seldom fails in the manner which you describe, so I think it is an unlikely suspect and also is a B to get to as you have to pull the blower wheel.

If you have to replace the board, try to use a Dinosaur (company name) board rather than one from Atwood. It has a three year warranty and is a much better product.

Good luck,

Steve