It looks like 22 is the MAP sensor and 99 is the EPC solenoid. From what I'm getting from internet searches is that the EPC uses data from the MAP to tell the auto transmission what to do- if this is correct, it seems to be exactly the kind of problem that would force my transmission overdrive not to work right? IF SO I'll need to know:
-what the heck is the MAP and EPC (as in what do I ask for at a parts store)
-where are they located
-how do I replace them
THANKS!!!

 

** ** / ********* ********* / ** ** / ********* ********* / * ** / ** ** / **
i read that this way;

22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
99 Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
99 Transmission EPC circuit/solenoid failure
12 Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low)
22 MAP (vacuum) or BARO signal out of range
the last ** could be: * * instead?

looks like this ones going to be an easy fix for ya.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ap-sensor.html

id pull it's plug and try cleaning it first, just in case i suppose.

so this is causing a no 4th gear,or a no lockup condition for ya? your sure nothing happened when you pressed the OD button?
this is good stuff to know for ol memory bank.


off topic brain storming.
i wonder if a feller could use a couple resistors in place of the BARO.place them on a switch,for "low altitude" shift schedule,and when a feller had her loaded up,flip the toggle for the "high altitude" shift schedule,for latter,longer higher rpm shifts (or visa versa if i have it backwards.)
hmmmm.it's probably not that easy.

 

looks like advance auto has them.
BWD MAP/BAP Sensor Part No. EC1607

(try promo code VISA at checkout.-scratch that,use their current promo for it.save almost another buck. DCRP)

i don't know anything about this sensor.you may want try searching or waiting for someone who knows how,if it can first be tested.

here's one.though with the gas engine.i wonder if the readings should be the same for us?

The correct MAP/BARO range of measurement is typically from 1.4 to 1.6 volts on the Signal (middle wire).
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1hn9m...dles-fast.html
i wouldn't put much faith in it though lol.

good news of course:
code 22 doesn't seem to be very popular around here.
congratulations by finding a sensor for the E40D that doesn't appear to be very failure prone.
that said,if you know where there is one of these trucks being parted out with the E40D.........

oh as per post #16.
right.thats what id think,99 is a result of 22's failure......hopefully(i don't know,but this is how id approach it.) you'll know soon enough.1 step at a time,starting with the most obvious.

 

So I'll replace my BARO sensor, which from what I gathered is on the firewall under the windshield wiper (?).
Interestingly enough, I live in the Santa Cruz Mountains, and travel between about 100ft and 2500ft elevation every day. A while back I noticed my shift points were very low, always upshifting by about 1800 RPM. A couple weeks ago I was headed to a job site at about 2500 feet and my transmission started upshifting at about 2600 RPM, and downshifting by 2k. This was an AWESOME improvement over always being "bogged down" with under 2k RPM's. Then about a week later the transmission went back to the shifting by 18OO RPMs, and a couple days later my OD went out.
SO, hopefully these are related and this Barometric sensor will fix both those issues. If not, hopefully it fixes one of them!
I'll keep you guys posted, thanks again for all the help!

 

OK, so I went out and checked the BAP sensor, and surprise, there is something broken on it- but I don't know what it's called! There are three wires, connected together that plug into the BAP sensor. Directly next to where they plug in there is a spot for what looks like a vacuum line to go in. Well, its a plastic wrapped hose that on the inside is made of wire coiled around the inside of the hose wall. I know this because the hose's plastic is missing in a bunch of places exposing the wire, and end that is supposed to be connected to the BAP is broken off and laying next to it. What is the hose/wire thing actually called, and where does it go (it seems to disappear under my BANKS box atop the engine).

 

Ok so random metal wrapped hose has nothing to do with the BAP, and is still a mystery.
I have replaced the BAP sensor, and test drove it around for a while. The truck shifts at higher RPMs now, which is good. However, I still have NO O.D. and now my codes are 67 and 99.
67 says it's either the Neutral Drive Switch, Neutral Gear Switch, Neutral Pressure Switch, Clutch Switch, or Manual Lever Position Switch.
I'm almost positive that I replaced the Neutral Pressure Switch when I got the truck, and the MLPS has been replaced TWICE in the last year, once because it needed it, and once because the transmission shop put it in when they rebuilt everything.
Now, when driving over 45mph, the OD does not turn on, BUT, if I'm going down hill and let off the throttle at all, the truck instantly drops to Neutral (?), and stays there unless I give it throttle again. I just kinda coast at high speeds or am at high RPMs when giving the truck throttle, there is no middle ground-
foot off the throttle over 45mph= immediate drop to idle RPMS
This kinda seems like a MLPS issue, but since Neutral drive and Neutral Gear switch both have Neutral in the name, I'm thinking it might be one of them...but I've never even heard of them before. Any way to narrow it down? Also, where are these things located?

 

when you replaced the MLPS,did you get the updated version (which means you had to re-pin it) line up the marks with the trans in N?
the transmission is supposed to drop way down in rpm's when you completely let off the throttle.this is the coast clutch,which saves fuel.so don't be confused with it going into neutral.
remove the MLPS plug,the solenoid pack plug,the main pcm plug,the teca relay (#1 in the power distribution box) clean them up with brake cleaner,allow to dry,and apply dielectric grease to them (of course plugging them back in after cleaned and greased.)
remove the positive battery terminal on the pass side for a minute (actually,just unhook it before you remove and clean up the plugs),reconnect and go for a drive.
post results,and any further codes you read.

oh.oops.
the MLPS is located midway center and up on the drivers side of trans.
the solenoid pack plug is located the same but on the pass side (behind a heat shield which must be removed first.)
the main pcm harness is located under the hood-on the drivers side firewall-between the fender and brake master cyl,but down lower.
there's a 10mm bolt holding the harness plug on.you can't miss it.
wouldn't be a bad idea to clean up the BARO and TPS sensor plugs in the same manner while your at this.

also check to make sure there are no blown fuses.if you find any,replace them and see if they blow.report any you find.

so you have right now;
D (1st) - first shift felt into 2nd- second shift felt (around 30mph now) into 3rd - then around 35mph you feel the converter lock- then no more shifts.

 

Yes, MLPS is the new style, was when I replaced it the first time too, so this is #3 New Style MLPS, with less than 3k on it.
I'm sorry to sound like an idiot, but I don't know where the solenoid pack plug,the main pcm plug,the teca relay are, I don't even know what the power distribution box is. I'm used to working on old MG's, Healeys, ******, Scouts, and my 80's Toyota truck. On this truck if I haven't already replaced it, I don't know where it is or what it does. On the bright side I've replaced a lot of stuff, so I'm learning a lot about the truck quickly I guess. Could you dumb it down for me real quickly?

 

oh my bad,i added their locations in above.
the power distribution box can be found under the hood-mounted to the drivers side fender well-close to the windshield washer fluid container-a black plastic box with a cover, that be opened to see relays,fuses,and your trans solenoid pack diode. - however the location for this relay and diode might be some other place on your '91.i don't know.

 

Did all the above except the trans solenoid pack diode- I can't find it. I have no box next to my wiper fluid box. There is an empty spot there with a bunch of plugs and wires, including the plug for the code reader, but if that's the right spot I'm not sure which one is the Solenoid pack (please help).
Another test run and now the OD light is flashing, and OD is not working. Codes read 67 and 99 again.
The transmission is shifting hard and at WAY higher RPMs than I'm used to (about 2800-3000 for first through 3rd). Not sure if this is a bad thing or not- sure don't mind the extra power though!
Question: It seems to me (looking through google images) like the EPC solenoid is in the transmission, accessible after removing the oil pan, is that right? If so, this is something the SHOULD be covered under my rebuilt transmission, and I will take it to the transmission shop and have them deal with it.
Also, any idea what the hard broken off hose is under my hood that seems to go from about the BARO sensor to the top of the engine? is that something that could be causing this? I thought it plugged into the BARO, but it doesn't, I have no idea where it goes or what it does.

 

ok,well really you skipped the most important plug though.i know it's a pain to get to,and then it's a pain to unclip even once the cover is removed,but you need to make sure the pins are clean.
yes that's right.all 5 solenoids make up the solenoid pack and it could be bad causing 99.they may have used your old solenoid pack,a faulty rebuilt one,or just a bad out of the box brand new one,of course it's hard to say.
starting by making sure this plug is clean is key though.
let's hope it's that,or a faulty teca relay or something.do you have the owners manual? it should tell you where it is in that if you can't find it.

don't worry about how the trans shifts when the OD light flashes.this is in safety mode,and does not reflect the actual state of the transmission,once the issue is revolved and in normal operating mode again.very late,hard shifts is too be expected in it's current state.
it's increasing line pressure drastically to help protect itself so you can slowly (preferably no faster than in 2nd gear) "get 'er home".

since the pcm is reporting a problem reading the MLPS though (code 67) ,i personally would likely start by investigating this.now that the BARO sensor was indeed an issue,and now 22 is cured.

67 Park/Neutral circuit fault
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault

one has to think by you claiming repeated MLPS failures,that a bad wire shorting out or something might be the issue.inspect the wires best you can.
are you sure when you re-pinned it,that you followed the directions correctly,and didn't mix up a pin or two? it's most likely when your trans shop replaced another newer style,they took for granted it had been re-pinned correctly of course and didn't think twice about simply swapping it.

 

im also forgetting you have the banks trans command too.though you answered the question with ?? after stating it.so are you not sure?
does this simply unplug,so that you may directly plug the stock solenoid connecter into the trans to eliminate this for now?

 

Previous owner repinned the MLPS with newer model, I just replaced the MLPS body. Shop replaced it again, but it worked fine for over 3k miles, towed from santa cruz over the sierras to the nevada desert and pack no problemo, so that shouldn't be the problem.
Has banks controller- I simply meant "could that be the problem?" when I typed (???) Unfortunately it's not a "plug and play" kinda thing, it's now hard wired in.
I cannot for the life of me find my Chilton manual for this truck, which is the reason for some of these basic questions, I'll pick up a new one tomorrow before resuming.
Thanks again for the help, will clean Solenoid Pack tomorrow night, retest, and post progress.

 

ah i see.well that banks trans command is going to make things more of a challenge for ya probably.it,or the connections to/from it could definitively be an issue.

well the MLPS is now an issue.the pcm is telling you it's not getting the required info from it.be the reason for it,an actually failed sensor,not properly adjusted,the connector,or the wiring,there is a problem (throwing code 67.)
could 67 also cause 99,or visa versa,or do you really have two independent issues left? this i don't know,probably two issues still.at least 22 is now eliminated.so your moving forward.

 

The TRS (updated MLPS) will not cause a 99 code.

No fourth and a failed EPC points to the solenoid pack. The pack might not be getting a signal from the TCM. Bad connection. The Pack itself might be bad. The Banks thing might be having a fit.

I would pull the Banks thing out of the circuit and test again.