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Turbo Spool Time, EBPV?

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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:05 AM
  #1  
87f250banks's Avatar
87f250banks
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Turbo Spool Time, EBPV?

Hey there, this is the first I have been on here in a while but I just recently purchased another PS diesel. This is my second powerstroke I have owned and maybe its just me but I feel like my 6.9 diesel had more nuts!! haha Well maybe not that drastic but close!

2000 F350 7.3L Diesel 4x4 Dually 4R100 Lariat LE Crew Cab 157k

I bought the truck bone stock, starts right up in the cold, never blows any smoke and doesn't burn any oil or anything like that. I started off by just doing normal maintance. I flushed the transmission, changed front end and rear end gear oil, changed the oil, fuel filter, pulled all the intercooler pipes and cleaned them up real good, did the WIX 46637 air filter mod, installed pyrometer gauge, trans temp gauge, boost gauge and installed a 4 inch exhaust (downpipe back for now, I have a downpipe that i'm hopeing to get on it today)

Current issues:

Running low boost (in my eyes) 11PSI max: 0-60 up hill the whole way, 900 degrees EGT, 11 PSI max. I've heard these trucks normally run betwen 15-18 PSI stock, any ideas as to why mine is lower?? Prevous owner did say the turbo was replaced back around 50k miles, could the wastgate have never been adjusted to proper boost??

Having trouble spooling turbo: If I floor this thing it will spool up and scoot along pretty good, but just driving around I feel like I have to give the truck almost 1/2-3/4th throttle just to get the turbo to spool at all. Normal?? I don't remember this with my other powerstroke but it also was a 6 speed.

EBPV valve is sticking when cold: (possibly has something to do with spooling issue also) if I start the truck on a cold morning and don't let it sit there and warm up for about 5-10 minutes it will just run like a dog, seriously you can floor the thing and i could jog beside it thats how bad it is (and no that is not an exaggeration). This valve is only for helping the engine warm up faster, correct? How bad is it to remove this thing? Not sure if I need a kit or if I could just take the thing out.

Any input would be appriciated, I want to put a DP Tuner on here and a Bank TransCommand but I'd like to have the truck running perfect "stock" before I go doing any real performance mods.

Thanks guys, you've always been a help in the past!!!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:19 AM
  #2  
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UNTAMND
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From: Lansdale, PA
You're on the right track with sticking ebpv and low boost. As well as wg actuator not adjusted right. My stock truck was low boost and that's first thing I checked (running turbo cars had helped a lot) and my actuator was loose. The wg flopped around. 2-3 turns later I got the seat pressure where it supposed to be and it made 20psi after that on stock tune.

If you get the DP tuner you don't need the trans command. Jody can set your tunes any way you want. I'd suggest 60tow 80econ and either the 100 or 120 tune. I tow under 10k with my 80e tune hyway and around town use the 60t. The tow tune really changes the shift points and holds the gear awesome. Get the DP tuner first then go from there.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #3  
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honeydew
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Did you check the two boots which connect the intake spider to the plenums on the engine?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:31 PM
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87f250banks
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Originally Posted by UNTAMND
You're on the right track with sticking ebpv and low boost. As well as wg actuator not adjusted right. My stock truck was low boost and that's first thing I checked (running turbo cars had helped a lot) and my actuator was loose. The wg flopped around. 2-3 turns later I got the seat pressure where it supposed to be and it made 20psi after that on stock tune.

If you get the DP tuner you don't need the trans command. Jody can set your tunes any way you want. I'd suggest 60tow 80econ and either the 100 or 120 tune. I tow under 10k with my 80e tune hyway and around town use the 60t. The tow tune really changes the shift points and holds the gear awesome. Get the DP tuner first then go from there.

Thanks man, yeah i went ahead and checked the wastegate actuator and like yours it WAS loose. I feel bad for the last owner that ran this thing for 10 years at half boost! it had to have been this way since they put the turbo on cause the threads were nice and tight. But yeah i cranked it in about a turn and a half and i'm at about 15 psi now, so i'll play with it more tomorrow and get her up to about 20 then stop.

But anyway, anyone have any ideas as to what I can do about the EBPV. Is there a way of cleaning it with out removing the turbo?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #5  
UNTAMND's Avatar
UNTAMND
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From: Lansdale, PA
I like free fixes. Glad that was the biggest issue.
If you don't get 20psi don't feel bad. Stock is from 15-18 or so. At 21psi it will throw the check engine light.
Next to check is soot on the uppipes and firewall.
You could be losing drive pressure there.

Anyway.
Get the riffraff oba and the DP tuner and hold off on the transcommand.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 01:02 AM
  #6  
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Robert6401
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Club FTE Silver Member

On the EBPV, the PCM will command it to stay closed until you place a good load on it, OR the temperature comes up to I think 140 degrees. You can unplug it.

Check out this thread, he's basically asking the same question:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...le-pickup.html
 
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