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oil pan O ring

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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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oil pan O ring

I'm going to replace my oil pan dipstick O ring (second time) and was wondering if anybody would know if you have to drain the oil first. I'm guessing you do but I have new oil in there and don't want to.

Last year when I did this the oil was drained but anyway, I must not have gotten the O ring in place on the inner piece. Bob at diesel O rings said to use a ton of light so you can tell for sure if you have it in the grove. I forgot to ask him if I would have to drain the oil. Also, I was using grease to help hold it in place but it was sliding around. Is there anything else a guy could put on that O ring to help keep it in place while you button things up? I was thinking about the gray silicone stuff but don't know if that's OK?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:16 PM
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Here is the link to the PDF on Bob's site Glenn. I wouldn't use RTV though.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:21 PM
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Why didn't I think of that-duh! Thanks Pete

Those are the instructions I followed a year ago. I hate that darn thing, what a **** poor design!
 
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 11:56 AM
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If anybody is interested I emailed Bob at dieselOrings.com to ask him if I had to drain the oil and he said NO, it wasn't necessary. The level is far below the flange.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Why didn't I think of that-duh! Thanks Pete

Those are the instructions I followed a year ago. I hate that darn thing, what a **** poor design!

Looking the instructions, seems to me, that the most important part to get a good seal is the outside seal and the amount of locktite 515 on the threads, no to much the inner o-ring, that of course it helps with the seal, but if you seal good the pan-outer seal-threads nut, youll get a good one. BTW mine doesnt have the outer seal, can you imagine that but its not leaking (it was but I just tigthened the nut a little and thats was all (certanly the inner o-ring its doing his job in this case). Maybe if leaks again I just put an outer seal and the locktite.


 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 10:04 AM
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That's what also has me confused about the whole deal. I cleaned everything up really good the first time and used the locktite. It started leaking again, I'm just going to do it again and see what happens.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 10:57 AM
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Glenn,

Make absolutely sure the inside of the pan where the o-ring rides is clean and clear of oil. Definitely use some RTV, not only to hold the seal in place, but to help seal it.. You won't hurt anything. Maybe at some point somebody cranked down on the nut to get it to stop leaking at one point and possibly messed up the pan. I know we've pulled several pans off 7.3's where the pan was slightly bent and it's tough to get it to seal again. Not sure if those were bent b/c of someone tightening the crap out of that nut or what, but they shouldn't be that way. Just a thought. I replaced mine, but it still leaked also. My pan is bent right there a little bit b/c I tightened the nut on mine like crazy to try to stop the leak. LOL RTV fixed mine. haha
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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I used the Ford spec grey RTV and I don't think you can go wrong with that. It should not hurt anything as previously stated and it is some sticky stuff. I used a lot. The whole thing is covered in it. You can't see the the nut at all, I covered it all.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Travis and James, I tighten the nut pretty good but I don't THINK I over tightened it. The way things are going now it probably won't be until after the first of the year to do it. I have a new starter to put in so I'll wait on that until I do the leak.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 12:48 PM
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That makes sense, only drop the starter once! LOL. I think you said this is the second time you are doing this so I assume you had the kit from the first time? If so your nut should be find but when I did mine, the factory nut was warped. If you did the kit you should not have that problem but if you only did the oring the first time that could be part of the issue.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 03:52 PM
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James, I used the kit from diesel Orings and kept all the stuff. Bob just mailed me the O ring and the gasket that goes behind the big nut. So, its the big nut that gets warped? I was thinking it was the flange on the inside of the pan. Well, I know I didn't over tighten the new big nut.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
James, I used the kit from diesel Orings and kept all the stuff. Bob just mailed me the O ring and the gasket that goes behind the big nut. So, its the big nut that gets warped? I was thinking it was the flange on the inside of the pan. Well, I know I didn't over tighten the new big nut.
Per Travis I am sure it can be both, but in my case the nut was warped. To clarify on what you got from Bob: the whole kit to include the nut or just the oring and gasket? If you got the whole kit and replace the nut with the one Bob sent you should be fine. If you did not replace the nut you need to next time around with the new one.. When I put the nut on a flat surface it has a very noticeable wobble/warp to it.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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I'm gonna have to look at the nut on them when I'm messing with an engine now. I've never payed attention to them before..
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
I'm gonna have to look at the nut on them when I'm messing with an engine now. I've never payed attention to them before..
I read that either on FTE or maybe somewhere else to check the nut. The new one from Bob is thicker metal I think.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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Last year I purchased the whole kit. Called diesel O rings and Bob said to just try the O ring and outside gasket that goes under the big nut. I still have everything from the orginal kit. I told Bob that I didn't think I got the O ring on right so he just sent me the O ring and gasket this time to try again.
 
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