My wife just informed me that my mechanic buddy is selling a 1996 VW Passat TDI for $2000. The car only has 76k miles. I know my buddy wouldn't let me buy something with known issues, but can you guys tell me in general whether this year model is worth a darn? What kind of mileage could be expected?

FWIW, I have a 1986 VW Jetta NA diesel. My little toy project car but the wife doesn't really like driving it. Don't know what we'd do in the end as far as what we'd keep, but if this is a good deal we hate to pass it up. The color is bright red (ugghhh) but I can get over that I guess.

Thanks for the info.

ETA : The car has a manual trans.

 

Those cars have a good reputation. They have a big fuel tank for excellent range.

Here is a buyer's guide with some model-specific info:

mk3 VW Jetta Passat TDI FAQ, forum, and new owner checklist

edit: with that low mileage maybe have your buddy evaluate whether the odo might have rolled 300K and/or instrument cluster replaced, telltale indicator is described in the link above.

 

Sounds good to me, but I know nothing about them.

I'm sure Dan will get back to you as soon as he sees this.

 

Subscribing....
A TDI will be my next car, I'm curious what the good years are also.
I like bright red, I would buy it.

 

99 1/2 to 2003 are the ones people like because they can make the most power....... 99-03 sounds familiar
TDI will be my first and next car

 

The engines are great on the mkIII, but the car bodies, suspension, mounts, everything else is way better on the MKIV.
Too busy at work right now will add more later.

 

I'll buy it (if you don't want it)! Add it to the TDI herd I am hoarding. I'd be interested in 1986 too...

 

My wife's is a 2002, but has been an excellent vehicle for her. The only issue has been the intake manifold plugging up with soot. Need to plug the EGR. Also the automatic transmission had a plastic bearing retainer that failed at about 135,000 miles.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Dan, will look forward to hearing more of your expert opinion when you have a chance.

Found out later last night that the A/C doesn't work. My mechanic buddy is going to check it out and let me know if its an issue that would be easy to address or not.

Also, I should add that it's not my buddy's car. He is selling it for an acquaintance who he thinks bought it with the intent of turning a profit on it. Meaning we don't know much about the history of the car. I'm thinking offer the guy $1500 for it?

 

I just sold my 96 Passat TDI with over 200,000 miles on it for $2650. All city I got 38mpg, mixed was 43+, and all highway @ 70mph would be 50mpg+.

Like Dan said, the suspension can be a bugger - rear struts are a PITA, fronts aren't too bad.

Parts are pricey:

Injection pumps can be $900, but all 4 GPs can be had for under $100 and changed in under an hour.

That year had 5 fuel injectors - 4 cylinder and 1 in the exhaust (for emissions). Exhaust injector is easily disconnected though, so no biggie there.

Carbon buildup can/will hurt performance & mileage, and it WILL happen. All the vacuum hoses will need replacing unless it's been done - use silicon hoses.

The door handles are crap. They WILL break on you, and getting replacements is $$$ - like $160+ for just 1 of the 4 if you go new. Used means it will be breaking sooner rather than later.

Instrument clusters can "die" because of a chip on the board, but there are options for fixing that aren't too pricey.

These are known as the B4 generation and are some of the most desirable due to their simplicity, efficiency, and reliability (sound familiar?).

Sure they have their issues but for $2000 (or less) if the injection pump is good and the carbon has been cleaned out recently (and no other major issues like tires, etc.) that's one hell of a deal.

Couple facts for you:

1. All B4 (96-97) were manual shift - no automatics ever made.
2. All had power windows, locks etc.
3. All were built in Germany, completely, and shipped over to the U.S. as finished units.
4. All U.S.-bound B4s came with plastic lens headlights - E-codes are about $500 but IMO WELL WORTH IT (just do not by the Chinese crap ones)


I'll PM you my number just in case.

 

For $1500.00 for a TDI, I guess you cannot go wrong.
As long as the seats are not broken down and all the windows are operational and there is no mold from a water leak you should be OK.
As far as I'm concerned the best TDI to get is a 2002-2003 ALH engine stick shift Jetta like the one Clay just bought.

 

Thanks Brendan, I got your PM also. I will let you know if I have any specific questions.

 

Dan, thanks for the info. I agree that the 2002-2003 are more desirable, if I was looking thats what I'd be looking for. This one just popped up which has us considering it. Don't want to waste the money on something that is known to just be a big money pit, though.

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again.
I've been schooled by a lot of my customers.
.
On another note, you can make those pesky locks last forever by regularly lubing them so they don't get hung up inside.
I use a product similar to this stuff.
LIQUI MOLY - Motor Oils, Additives, Car Care - Products - Wartungs-Spray weiß

The stuff that I use was made by the same company, but I bought the last three cases ten years ago.
It's clear instead of white.
I don't know why they quit making it, but I cannot find that exact part number any more.

 

If the fuel pump is leaking it can often be fixed with new seals. Most common leak is the oring between the head and pump body. This can be replaced with pump on car. I helped a friend replace one, it wasn't that difficult but had a high pucker factor due to the $$ consequences of a mistake. Here is a source for the various seals, this site also has detailed installation instructions: TDI Injection pump seal for Golf Jetta, New Beetle