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This is all second hand info from text messages because the younger generation doesn't like to talk on the phone anymore.
Hard starting in cold temps this week (low 30's). When it does start the whole truck shakes. Some white smoke comes out. No CEL. Starts better if plugged in or in the afternoon when it's in the upper 60's. Current oil has around 4,800 miles on it, but the oil changes were ignored for a while earlier this year. Don't know exaclty how long they were ignored, but she said it did start better when I changed the oil 4800 miles ago. Around 90k on the truck.
The problem clears up when the engine warms up, and with no CEL, I'm thinking she's got injector issues, especially with ignoring the oil changes earlier. Will Rev-X really make a difference? It's expensive, but much cheaper than a set of injectors that she can't afford right now.
switch to 5w-40 and your problems wil go away great oil and trucks seems to run better and qeiter also ,it may cost a little more but well worth it. Thats all I run in my truck and 75000 miles and no injector problems
Look up the FICM test in the Tech folder. The FICM voltage should be very close to 48 volts during all tests. My truck had similar issues last winter, I had an intermittent voltage drop of 29 volts during the initial buzz.
I'll look into the FICM tests. Would that fit the same symptoms? Would FICM voltage have issue during the cold and not when warm? The block heater would provide heat to make the FICM work properly?
It will be hard to do these tests over the phone, so she'll have to just keep plugging it in until I've got time to go look at it. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll go do some reading.
I just put revx in my truck last night for the first time. I've only had the truck for a few thousand miles, it's a 2005 king ranch with 154k miles on it. It had problems in the mornings when started and would have to idle for 5-10 minutes before it would be driveable because of no power. I am running the rotella synthetic in it since I bought it but don't know what was in it before. After putting revx in last night it seems to have already gotten better. I plugged it in last night for the first time too and even though it was in the low 20s she started right up and didn't chug at all. Besides my batterys not doing so well it seems to start easier and not have to idle as long but I'll know more over the next few days.
The injectors coils are designed for 48 volts to cycle the spool valves. Anything less doesn't allow the spool valve to operate properly. Cold weather amplifies the problem due to reduced oil flow. The injectors use oil pressure to operate the intensifier piston and in turn, the plunger in the injector.
Last edited by BobbyB; Dec 1, 2011 at 10:27 PM.
Reason: oil
The injectors coils are designed for 48 volts to cycle the spool valves. Anything less doesn't allow the spool valve to operate properly. Cold weather amplifies the problem due to reduced oil flow. The injectors use oil pressure to operate the intensifier piston and in turn, the plunger in the injector.
Thank you, but what does temperature have to do with voltage? Are we dealing with possible intermittent connections due to corrosion, loose connections? How would plugging in the block heater affect voltage from the FICM?
I'm familiar with engine oil from the HPOP actuating intensifier pistons, which is why I was suspecting injector issues. Especially with the 6.0 track record of stiction and the poor OCI involved.
I'm by no means an expert on the 6.0, so don't take this as an argument, just a bunch of questions. I've seen electrical issues get "fixed" by heat, but the oil cooler is far enough away from the FICM that I don't understand how plugging the truck in first would cure an FICM issue.
The more I understand, the better prepared I'll be when I get to look at it.
When I first started studying the FICM power supply, I thought it was just a pair of voltage doubling amps in series (12v x 2=24 x2=48v) but it's not that simple, it is regulated and will overheat the solder connections on the board attempting to maintain 48v output when input voltage is low. Sometimes simply reflowing the overheated connections will repair it. As you mentioned a cold FICM can have a poor connection and as it heats up the connection gets better, but more is going on. The block heated can get the engine temp up over 100* and the FICM can be physically warmed a few degrees also, but I think the easier, quicker start and shorter glow plug on/alternator off time is the bigger reason the block heater helps when there is a FICM problem.
Another reason to consider is the many posters who know their FICM main power output is low and plugging the block heater in helps a lot. Just anecdotal evidence, but still a common claim.
I Used RevX at my last oil change, about 3k miles ago and it made a dramatic improvement in cold idle and power until fully warmed up. It may be the cooler temps here at night but the effect seem to be fading quickly.
Thanks Rusty. As I said, I'm not arguing, just trying to understand. It makes no sense to me how this would be a FICM issue, but I've got my multi-meter ready to check it out.
i just want to have all the bases covered when I get started on this.
10-4. I understand, trying to help someone over the phone is't fun either, especially when the person on the other end isn't a mechanic (AND an electrician these days).
good luck with it!
Before swithing to a synthetic oil or adding Rev X, I always recommend getting Fords Inductive Heating flash (latest version) to address injector stiction problems. It did wonders on my truck and is a one time expense at ~ $100.
Before swithing to a synthetic oil or adding Rev X, I always recommend getting Fords Inductive Heating flash (latest version) to address injector stiction problems. It did wonders on my truck and is a one time expense at ~ $100.
When did the flash come out? Is there a way to determine what flash is currently on the PCM? $100 is a lot of money for her right now.
When did the flash come out? Is there a way to determine what flash is currently on the PCM? $100 is a lot of money for her right now.
I don't recall what version included the Inductive Heat strategy but it's been out for at least a couple of years now. Probably the best way to determine which version is on the truck is to take it to a Ford shop.
Also keep in mind the $100 flash upgrade is a one time expense whereas running a synthetic oil will cost some extra $$$ and Rev X will cost you ~ $70.
I don't recall what version included the Inductive Heat strategy but it's been out for at least a couple of years now. Probably the best way to determine which version is on the truck is to take it to a Ford shop.
Also keep in mind the $100 flash upgrade is a one time expense whereas running a synthetic oil will cost some extra $$$ and Rev X will cost you ~ $70.
Would it show up on an oasis? What number or wording would clue us in on the current flash? We might be able to get an oasis if it will determine the current flash.