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Jlalanas and Matt,
Any concerns about the finish on the 5100 shocks and the 7100 stabilizer rusting out with the salt? I was going to go with the HD figuring that the finish on them might hold up better.
I know that whatever I get will eventually rust out....I just don't want it to happen the first winter LOL.
I had the HD's on my 07. Before I installed them I gave them a coat of clear paint to help protect the finish. After 2 winters there was rust around the welds and they were starting to get some small spots on them. The next time I get shocks I am going to try the 5100's and I will give them 3 coats of clear to help protect them. One coat was definitely not enough.
My 2011 had 6,000 miles on it when 2 of the OEM Ranchitos went bad, and Ford replaced em for me (I just took em down and replaced em myself).
during that wait, I had the Rancho 9000's adjustable on em all around for about 30 days. I only had these on long enough to decide they weren't gonna last (no offense). I had already ordered my Kings (see my other posts) and once I got em dialed in, there is nothing like em. I know they are spend, but worth it to me. Im just gliding over bumps like my Raptor.
I"m also interested in this Carli Bilstein 7100 stabliizer setup for sure. I need to order one ASAP. I had the Rancho dual set up and it felt nice, but kept sliding down and getting in the way. Rancho acknowledged these keep sliding around (and I kept breaking bolts) and they took the whole set, and the 4 shocks back
Does anyone know the difference between the Bilstein HD and the 5100? Besides the finish and the fact that the 5100's can be used for 0-2 inch of lift.
I also noticed Fox has a nitrogen charged shock that sell for about 120 each. A friend of a friend has Fox shocks on his lifted GMC (shocks were part of his BDS 6.5 inch lift kit) and he loves the shocks. Has anyone used these?
I ordered my Rancho 9000XL shocks (RS999043, RS999254) and the Rancho dual steering stabilizer system (RS98510). Amazon had a $80 promotion discount on the shocks, so it was only $290 for all four 9000XL shocks. I can't wait to start the install.
I finished installing the Rancho steering stabilizer this morning, and I must say it is a must have mod!
Good to hear! Hope it stays that way for you. Have heard tons of issues with the Rancho dual setup. Seems it rotates down...and rides on some of the steering components.
Does anyone know the difference between the Bilstein HD and the 5100? Besides the finish and the fact that the 5100's can be used for 0-2 inch of lift.
I think it is size related. The 5100 is a bigger shock...more diameter...larger piston...and more fluid to help control fade better.
I did manage to get the new steering stabilizer on though (Carli Bilstein 7100). MAJOR improvement over stock, doesn't dip into every hole I drive through, holds straight.
Nice setup! So...do you happen to know what psi the Carli Bilstein 7100 comes OEM???
The rear shocks have a 70mm diameter. Is there any trick to making the shock boots go on easier? Would heating the boots in hot water or using "wire pulling gel" help?
I pulled the boots as far down as I could get them (within a reasonable amount of time) and then zip tied them. I think they're pretty close to the where the shock body flares out.
I've been doing A LOT of reading in different forums and decided I'm just going to run with the boots on but not ziptied at the bottom. People complain that debris/water can get trapped inside the boot and cause it to pile up on top of the shock's seal, causing the seal to fail early and rust the shaft. People also say that the boots do protect the shaft from encountering a majority of the debris and also protect the shaft from getting dinged by flying rocks that will cause the shock's shaft to rust/failing the seal as well.
I figure the best of both worlds is to run the boot attached to the ring at the end of the shaft and cut the boot to have just enough length to contact the shock body when the shock is fully extended. This leaves the bottom of the boot free to drop out any water/debris but also keeps the majority of the debris off the shaft and protects it from rocks. This is pretty much just like the factory set up on the stock Ford shocks (hard metal shield protecting shock's shaft but completely open at the bottom). It also always me to freely move the boot out the way to clean and examine the shock's condition periodically.
I will still ziptie the boots on the dual stabilizers since I don't have gravity helping the boot keep full coverage, but I will cut some slits in the bottom side of the boot to allow trapped debris to fall out. I mainly want to protect the stabilizers for flying rocks, since they are completely exposed.
Kevin I finally got around to ordering my 5100's. They should be here on Monday and I will install them next weekend. In the meantime I am going to put a few coats of clear on them like I did with the Bilstein HD shocks I put on my 07. It helps to fend off the salt damage for a few years at least. I am curious to see if I can tell any difference from the HD shocks I had on my old truck. Probably not though as it has been too long since I drove it. Either way I am sure it will be so much better than stock.
They have to be better. I am hopping for better while towing too. Going to get the camper tonight and will be the first time since I put the shocks on. We will see, had a lot of sag with the stock ones.
Super08,
When you say put a few coats of clear on them, are you talking about something like Rustoleum clear? Or something else? I ordered the 5100 steering stabilizer and it should be here today or tomorrow. I wanted to spray it down with something before i put it in. I haven't been able to find Fluid Film or LPS3 locally.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.